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Living

Punch bowl: Dusting off the tradition of the communal beverage

Before the water cooler, there was the punch bowl. The bowl contained the original social medium—a beverage spiked with alcohol—and it brought people together. Groups of people congregated around the bowl, catching up on gossip, making merry, and enjoying one another’s company.

Sumerian art from as early as the 3rd century BC reveals that it’s been around for thousands of years, depicting ancient Mesopotamians drinking beer from a shared bowl with straws. The contents of the bowl have changed over the years as breakthroughs in alchemy in the 15th century brought a swift “punch” to the beverage, and the subsequent Western colonial period in the 16th and 17th centuries saw a massive proliferation of both distilled spirits and sugarcane, which ultimately gave birth to the era of the personal cocktail. In the ensuing centuries, drinkers could then hunch over their single-dram drinks instead of rubbing elbows with their neighbors; the communal bowl and the age of a the shared beverage experience was in decline.

Thanks to the bookish bartender of the 21st century, the historical cocktails from the communal bowl are making a comeback and being reinvented to boot. There is no better time to have this discussion than when the communal beverage is most relevant—during the holidays. Germans congregate over gluhwein, Americans over eggnog, Brits over wassails, the French over vin chaud, Norseman over glogg, and so on. Most cultures recognize that the nature of a communal beverage shares the spirit of the Holy Days of Winter: bringing people together to share in each other’s lives. Modern bartenders, being both academic and economical, realize that making these communal punches is not only a precedented social service, but it is also a great way to make a large quantity of drinks for many people to enjoy at once. The communal bowl is the perfect way to throw a party and encourage your guests to be social.

I checked in with some local drink craftsmen to see what is filling their bowls this time of year.

Mmm…rum punch.

Tyler Hudgens
Cocktail enthusiast and protégé of drinkmaster Nick Crutchfield from Commonwealth Restaurant

“Punch is one of my favorite things to make and drink,” Hudgens said. “It’s easy and communal and festive and just makes me want to celebrate. I guess a punch for me is the sound of a champagne cork popping for a lot of people. It makes everything merry and bright.”

Tyler’s winter warmer punch

Combine equal parts: Sherry (try Lustau Manzanilla cream sherry), Appleton 12 Year, Peaty scotch (like Laphroig, Ardbeg, or Pig’s Nose), honey or honey liqueur, water (“Trust me, this is boozy,” Hudgens said. “And we aren’t stirring ice into it for dilution like we do for your Manhattans and such.”)

Turn on the crock pot and warm your mixture on low-medium heat. Ladle into a punch glass (if you don’t have one don’t fret; a rocks glass or snifter work just as nicely) and garnish with an orange peel studded with cloves. Just poke three or four cloves right into the skin of the orange in a fun pattern.

Christian Johnson
Bar manager at Blue Light Grill

Johnson has been riffing on gluhwein, the German-style mulled wine that is enjoyed communally in open-air markets throughout the holidays in many parts of Europe. Gluhwein is the perfect low-alcohol, warm beverage to sip as the cold of winter sets in.

“The punch is well-rounded with citrus notes, and the earthy tea-like nature and sweetness are subtle and do not overwhelm the palate,” Johnson said.

Dillard’s gluhwein weiss

Dillard’s gluhwein weiss, courtesy of Blue Light’s Christian Johnson, is a sweet, tart, and spicy winter punch. Photo: Elli Williams

1 1/2 bottles of Barboursville Riesling, 1 cup sugar, 1 cup honey, 1/2 cup lemon juice, 1 1/2 cups water, 4″ sprig rosemary, 2″ cinnamon stick, 1/2 tsp. clove, 1/4 tsp. cardamom

Coarsely grind the cardamom and clove, and combine all ingredients in a non-reactive pot. Bring to a gentle simmer and cover for 15 minutes. Remove from heat and strain. Garnish with rosemary sprig and lemon wheel. Serves five to six.

As the holidays approach, don’t forget the rich history of humans taking a moment to share both a beverage and their company. If making a batch is too much work, belly up to a bar in town. The bartenders will be happy to see you and share a pour from their bowl with you.

“Punch is one of my favorite things to make and drink,” said Tyler Hudgens. “It’s easy and communal and festive and just makes me want to celebrate.”

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Uncategorized

December First Fridays Guide

First Fridays is a monthly art event featuring exhibit openings at many Downtown art galleries and additional exhibition venues. Several spaces offer receptions. Listings are compiled in collaboration with Piedmont Council for the Arts. To list an exhibit, please send information two weeks before opening to arts@c-ville.com.

The Bridge PAI 209 Monticello Rd. “Gift Forest,” a curated shop of vintage and handmade goods. 5-8pm.

Bon 100 W South St. “First Fridays After Party!” featuring old jazz and swing by Zuzu’s Hot 5. 8pm.

Boutique Boutique 411 E. Main St. “The Art of Private Devotion: Mexican Folk Retablos.” 5-8pm.

Cafe Cubano 112 W. Main St. “Figment,” featuring oil paintings inspired by pulp fiction novel covers by Mary Jane Nichols. 5-7pm.

Chroma Projects 418 E. Main St. “A Dozen Roses,” paintings by Tamra Harrison-Kirschnick in the Front Gallery, “Little Journeys,” works on paper by M.Jordan Tierney in the Passage Gallery, “Mise en Scenes,” paintings Stephanie Helvin and sculptures by Jennifer Almanza in the Black Box Gallery and “Sycamore Residence” by Orion Holen in the Underground. “Listening Room” by Peter Traub in the Sound Garage. 5:30-7:30pm.

C’ville Arts Cooperative Gallery 118 E. Main St. “Textiles to Dye for,” featuring work by Gillian Ruffa. 6-8pm.

FIREFISH Gallery 108 Second St. NW. “The Art of Rescue,” featuring a group exhibit of equine art to benefit Hope’s Legacy. 5:30-7:30pm.

The Garage 250 First St. N. “Breadhead,” a one-night only event with loaves of bread and portrait photography, by Ashley Florence. 5-7:30pm.

McGuffey Art Center 201 Second St. NW. “Holiday Group Show” in all galleries. 5:30-7:30pm.

The New Dominion Book Shop 404 East Main St. New works by watercolor artist Blake Hurt. 5:30 to 7:30.

Second Street Gallery 115 Second St. SE. “When You Were Here Before” by Julian Forrest in the Main Gallery and “Still Waters Run Deep” by Genesis Chapman in the Dove Gallery. Reception from 5:00-7:30pm with artist talk at 6:30pm.

Telegraph 110 Fourth St. NE. “Face Value,” a small format portrait show by various artists. 5-10pm.

Warm Springs Gallery 105 Third St. NE. “Small Works for the Holidays,” a group show. 6-8pm.

WriterHouse 508 Dale Ave. “Between Here and There,” photographs by Stacey Evans. 5:30-7:30pm.

WVTF and Radio IQ Studio Gallery 216 W. Water St. “To Conjure: Meditations on the Frontier,” works on paper by Jesse Wells. 5-7pm.

OTHER EXHIBITS

Angelo 220 E. Main St. “Recent Paintings by Michael Fitts” on scrap metal panels.

CitySpace 100 Fifth St. NE. Colorful quilts by the Crescent Hall Quilters.

Fralin Museum of Art at the University of Virginia 155 Rugby Rd. “Looking at the New West: Contemporary Landscape Photography,” “In the Shadow of Stalin: The Patterson Family in Painting and Film,” “Stickworks” by Patrick Dougherty, and a retrospective of paintings by Émilie Charmy.

Kluge-Ruhe Aboriginal Art Collection 400 Worrell Dr. “Ngau Gidthal (My Stories),” linoleum and woodblock prints by David Bosun.

Les Yeux du Monde 841 Wolf Trap Road. “New Paintings and Works on Paper” by Dean Dass.

Pigment 1229 Harris St #13. “Porcelain & Leather” by Rebekah Wostrel and Aaron Baker.

Sustain Main Street Market, 406 W. Main St. Light sculpture installation by Rebekah Graves.

Tim O’Kane Studio 107 Perry Dr. Recent studio and travel studies in oil and graphite by Time O’Kane.

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News

Surge of joy: On Mountain View Street, happiness is a high power bill

Got holiday lights? It’s that time of year, and, according to Dominion Virginia Power, simply lighting a Christmas tree can tack as much as $10 onto a power bill for the holiday season. Jeff Norford’s holiday season power bill jumps a bit more than that.

Indeed, perhaps no one in Charlottesville knows the ecstasy of the holiday lighting season—or the agony of the resulting power bill—as well as Norford, whose house on Mountain View Street near the southern end of Monticello Road is the site of the city’s most extravagant holiday light display. The seasonal power cost of all that holiday cheer: a whopping $1,800.

Fortunately for Norford—and to a lesser extent, the rest of us—there is a solution that won’t turn us into Grinches who darken our homes and demand that our children’s laughter cease: Swap old fashioned strings of incandescent lights for strings of LED lights, which use 98 percent less electricity.

“The cost to light a tree with LEDs is 13 to 17 cents per season,” said Dominion spokesperson Karl Neddenien, noting that LED lights, which run about $5 per 100 bulbs at most stores, may pay for themselves in a single season.

Norford said he’s in the process of replacing his old incandescent lights with new LED strings, and hopes to bring his sky-high holiday power bill down, or at least keep it steady as his display continues to grow. But with an estimated 40,000 bulbs making up the massive display, Norford said replacement of the lights is slow going.

“I’m about halfway through,” he said, citing the cost of that many new LED bulbs as prohibitive and noting that LED light replacement won’t reduce the power used by the 110 Christmas-themed blow-up figures and the giant illuminated plastic candles and other outdoor decorations that are part of the display.

Norford started his seasonal light show more than a decade ago to bring holiday cheer to his godson who is now in his 20s. Somewhere along the way, the holiday spirit took over. Each year, starting in September, Norford spends hundreds of dollars adding to and repairing the display, making his lights brighter and the array of blow-up characters more extensive.

Holiday visitors are invited to park their cars and enter the manger area he builds in his front yard on foot. Every evening from 5:30-10pm, Santa greets visitors and hands out candy canes at the front gate. Norford himself frequently dresses as Rudolph to greet passersby who come from near and far.

Norford said that while he turns some of his lights off during the day to conserve energy, the blow-up characters stay inflated round the clock from Thanksgiving until the Sunday after Christmas because visitors are regular even during the day.

Holiday cheer, it seems, trumps eco-frugality on Mountain View.

“I’m a big kid at heart,” Norford said.

Dominion’s other winter conservation tips:

•Keep thermostat between 65 and 70 degrees when you’re home during the day, and set to 58 degrees at night.

•Increase the temperature on the thermostat gradually if you have a heat pump so you don’t activate emergency heat and incur additional costs.

•Seal air leaks, fireplaces, and duct work, and weather strip doors and windows.

•Lower water heater to 120-125 degrees.

•Change furnace filters every month.

•Wrap water heater in insulated blanket and insulate the first three to six feet of pipe near the water heater.

Categories
Living

A Hokie’s view of Hooville on Rivalry Saturday

I can barely feel my toes, and I’m wishing I’d grabbed an extra sweatshirt before leaving the house. I’ve just spent entirely too much money on an 8″ pepperoni pizza and a Diet Pepsi in a souvenir Cavaliers cup I have no intention of keeping, and the November sun is blinding me as I squint at the field.

It’s one of my favorite days of the year.

It’s the Saturday after Thanksgiving, and I’m watching my Hokies round out the football season with their 10th consecutive victory over the Hoos.

Everyone is so bundled up at the game that it’s hard to tell who’s who. There are easily as many Hokies as Wahoos in the stands, and the navy blue and maroon are ironically indistinguishable from across the stadium, so we all just blend into a sea of orange.

The two sets of fans in my nosebleed section next to Tech’s Marching Virginians mostly ignore one another, but we all exchange exasperated looks when a dozen players get into a scuffle on the field during the second quarter and have to be pulled apart by the refs. Every person in the stadium wants a win so badly we can taste it. But as someone who’s been told to fuck off for wearing an orange and maroon shirt while visiting another university on game day, I’m oddly heartened by the lack of hostility and the feeling that, despite the palpable competition and rivalry, we’re all here for the same reason—to watch the Hokies win again.

I’m seated next to a good-natured couple who met at Tech in 1982, and in front of me is a straight-postured row of silver-haired Wahoos in blue and orange windbreakers who have clearly been attending these games for decades. I can’t help but roll my eyes when they stand and sway with their arms around one another, singing “The Good Old Song” after every UVA score, but I doubt they appreciate our drumline-led “H-O-K-I-E-S HOKIES!” cheer after every first down, either.

I’m obviously in the minority in this town, but there’s no shortage of Tech fans in Charlottesville. Just last week I found myself chatting about my alma mater with a 1992 graduate while waiting in line at Bodo’s, and it’s rare that I get through the day without spotting at least one car with a VT sticker. We may get put in the corner on game days at Buffalo Wild Wings and endure comments like “Don’t you know you’re in the wrong town?” but the feeling of camaraderie with my fellow Charlottesville Hokies makes living in rival territory a little more bearable.

I’ll be the first to admit that it was a terrible game and, frankly, neither team was particularly deserving of the win. But I’ve been bleeding orange and maroon for as long as I can remember, and as a Hokie in Hooville, nothing’s warmed my heart this season quite like singing “Na na na na, na na na na, hey hey hey, goodbye” with a couple thousand of my closest friends as the clock counted down the final seconds of the 16-6 game.

Until next year, Hoos.

Categories
Arts

ARTS Pick: Brooke Annibale

For Nashville-based singer-songwriter Brooke Annibale there was never any doubt that a career in music was in her future. “My family owns a music shop in Pittsburgh,” she said. “I started taking lessons and as soon as I knew enough chords, I started writing songs.” Annibale has four self-releases to her name including 2013’s Words in Your Eyes EP, and her lyrics convey a startling depth and wisdom for a songwriter in her early 20s. She’s already had tunes featured on TV shows like “One Tree Hill,” “Hart of Dixie,” and “Teen Mom 2,” and critics are taking notice as she is taking flight.

Sunday 12/8. $8, 7pm. C’ville Coffee, 1301 Harris St. 817-2633.

Categories
Living

Local chefs swoon over Pad Thai’s home-style cuisine

Does authenticity have a place in the food world? Four top local chefs and I discussed the question over a recent lunch at Pad Thai restaurant, located at 156 Carlton Rd., next to Beer Run. The venue was appropriate. Pad Thai enjoys a huge following among area chefs, and is said by many to serve the most authentic Thai food in town.

But what does it mean for food to be “authentic”? Some say it means nothing at all, arguing that the word wrongly implies that there is some Platonic ideal of a particular dish or style of cuisine. “Authentic to what?” they ask. Others respond that even if its meaning is uncertain, the word can still be useful, particularly for restaurants serving food from a specific region. It can signal that the restaurant strives to serve dishes similar to what might traditionally be made by residents of that region. In the United States, for example, “authentic” can often suggest that recipes are not altered to suit American tastes.

I sat down at Pad Thai with Moto Pho Co.’s Vu Nguyen, Brian Ashworth of Ace Biscuit & Barbecue, and Zocalo’s Andrew Silver and Ivan Rekosh. While they all had different takes on “authenticity,” their opinions on the restaurant are the same: they love it.

The chefs are so loyal to their favorite dishes that owner Santi Ouypron* didn’t need to take their order. For Silver and Rekosh, it is the Thai beef consommé noodle bowl. With a house-made broth that Silver calls “profound,” it’s Silver’s favorite dish in Charlottesville.

“The depth of flavor in the broths is what keeps me coming back,” Rekosh said.

For Ashworth, it’s the tom yum noodle bowl with beef tongue, for the complexity of the broth and also the sense that the food has the “feel of homemade.”

This, it turns out, is no accident. Since it opened in 2006, Pad Thai has served the very same food that Ouypron and his wife, Utaiwan, made at an eatery they ran out of their Bangkok home for five years before coming to the United States. It is quite literally Thai home cooking. According to Ouypron, none of the recipes has been altered for American tastes.

“I stay with the Thai way,” said Ouypron. “I don’t make it the American way.”

It’s no wonder then that Nguyen, a Thailand native who lived there for sixteen years, frequents the place.

“This is comfort food to me,” said Nguyen. “I appreciate that they are offering menu items that you rarely see at any other Thai establishments.” His favorite dish happens to be the exact same as Ouypron: clear broth noodle bowl with the additions of roast pork and shrimp wontons.

With decades of experience as a “kitchen artist” in hotel restaurants around the world, Ouypron himself is responsible for many of Pad Thai’s recipes. He even once earned a gold medal for chocolate carving at the World Culinary Olympics. But it’s Utaiwan who does most of the cooking, which she learned from her mother in the kitchen growing up, and also working at her aunt’s countryside Thailand restaurant. Her own favorite dish, although not on the menu, is usually available: Chinese broccoli sautéed with either pork belly or shrimp.

There’s so much good stuff on the menu that I find myself ordering something different on almost every visit. Grandpa’s Favorite, though, is hard to resist. Ouypron recalls that his father would ask his mother to make this dish so often that it became known as “Grandpa’s favorite” to his kids. Nuggets of fried catfish, a Thai omelet, and a curried seafood egg roll all rest atop green curry flavored fried rice. It’s rare that a dish both excites and comforts, but this one does.

Ouypron also loves the appetizers, such as pork patties, which are best enjoyed with a beer at the bar while watching a game. Fortunately, Pad Thai has one of the best beer lists in town, particularly for hopheads, with hoppy ales like Lagunitas Little Sumpin’ Sumpin’ and Bell’s Two Hearted Ale among the ten beers on draught. They are the perfect foil to Pad Thai’s fiery curries.

Interestingly, Ouypron is among the skeptics of the word “authentic.”

“I don’t like the word,” said Ouypron, who prefers “home-style.” Whatever the word or meaning, in the end the chefs agreed that it’s all really beside the point, because the ultimate criterion is taste. And Pad Thai’s food tastes delicious.

As Silver put it, it’s a “Charlottesville gem.”

*In an earlier version of this story, Santi Ouypron was incorrectly identified as “Santi Ouygen.” 

Categories
News

Apple a day: Health care providers struggle to treat migrant workers

The several hundred migrant workers who flood Albemarle and surrounding counties every apple season have come and gone. But the community of nonprofit health care providers that supports them each season is already thinking about next year.

The Blue Ridge Medical Center (BRMC), which provides medical care to more than 10,000 patients each year in some of the most rural and impoverished areas surrounding Charlottesville, has been using its mobile clinic since 1999 to serve many who would otherwise go untreated, including migrant farm workers. Strapped for cash due to a lack of donations, the nonprofit wasn’t able to send its mobile health clinic into the orchards in Albemarle and Nelson counties to serve permanent and migrant orchard workers during the picking season, leaving an unknown number of people in a dangerous line of work underserved.

There are seven major migrant camps and extension camps in Albemarle County, ranging in size from about a dozen workers to about 60, with a couple of hundred more workers in the Nelson area orchards for the season, which ended last week. According to police, health care workers, immigrant rights advocates, and the workers themselves, the vast majority of the migrants travel legally from Mexico to Virginia on H2A agricultural visas requested on an individual basis by orchard owners. But upon arriving in the state, they are met with a series of obstacles. Most of the workers are unable to buy or rent a car while they are in the country because of financial constraints, so they are dependent exclusively on the orchard owners for transportation: to get groceries, go to the post office, and get health care treatment.

“Transportation is limited for guest workers who come from outside of the country,” said Christianne Queiroz, program director for the Virginia Farm Workers. “They usually have to depend on their employer, but that’s limited to one time a week for a trip to the grocery store. Farm work is one of the most dangerous professions in the country and people are really in need of medical care, whether it’s preventative or something more serious.”

Many of the orchard workers don’t speak English well, which makes communicating and interacting in the surrounding communities difficult. As a result, migrant workers often feel isolated and unable to seek out services like medical care.

And they need it. Exposure to pesticides is constant among farm workers and the harmful effects that can arise as a result often go overlooked outside of the farms and orchards themselves. Health care advocates say part of the problem is ignorance of the chemical and pesticide world within the medical field.

“One of the things I’d really like to see are doctors specializing in detecting pesticides so people could be treated and could develop claims for pesticide poisoning,” said Queiroz, at a recent Hispanic Services Summit held at the BRMC’s facility on Route 29 where legal experts, health care providers, and representatives from a local church and orchard met to discuss how the Latino and migrant farm working populations can be better served.

“We’ve had people with rashes,” said Queiroz. “And doctors are not generally trained to address that specific cause, so they feel a little reluctant to affirm that something is caused by pesticides when it can be caused by so many other things.”

Several farm workers interviewed for this story said they either personally experienced a rash from working closely with pesticides or knew of coworkers who had, but none of them would go on the record for fear of losing their jobs next year. Others in the health care community have been told by orchard owners that they are not allowed to visit their private farms during certain periods.

In an effort to break through cultural, linguistic, and geographical barriers to ensure the farm workers get the health care services they need, the Blue Ridge Medical Center has been carting around its mobile unit, which resembles a giant moving truck housing a sleek exam room and medical supplies.

But this year, according to center Executive Director Peggy Whitehead, BRMC couldn’t afford to hire the nurse practitioner who typically accompanies the mobile clinic. With only 18 percent of its budget coming from federal funds, the medical center has relied on grants and donations from area residents and farms. But they didn’t come through in the numbers necessary this year.

“Everything we do on the outreach level is funded through grants and donations,” said Whitehead. “And that’s getting a bit more difficult to come up with. We do a really good job of getting services to people now, but in the future I see more and more difficulty finding the funding to make that happen.”

The Lovingston-based center has tried to keep up with the area’s needs. But with limited funds, it had to prioritize its services to orchards closest to its home base. As a result, hundreds of local farm workers likely never saw a visit from a health care provider this fall.

One orchard worker, who has lived in the area for years and did not want to be named, said she heard the center was short staffed and wasn’t accepting new patients. Luckily, she said, the orchard reached out to the center directly, which ultimately sent a health care worker to the camp. But other area camps had received similar word about the center’s financial state and likely did not inquire further, the worker said.

The center charges the poorest of its clients—which include most migrant workers—about $30 per visit, which covers lab and diagnostic work as well. Some in the Latino community have suggested that the orchard owners themselves pony up money for the medical center as a makeshift health insurance plan for their employees. But Whitehead and the center’s head of its rural health outreach program, Vanessa Hale, stressed that these are not huge corporate farms. They are mom-and-pop operations with relatively low bottom lines.

“These growers, while they’re big for Nelson and Albemarle County, they’re still small family farms,” said Hale. “I’m not saying they couldn’t pay more for the service they receive. However, it’s not like it’s some huge multinational corporation grinding down on these workers. It’s more complicated than that.”

To bolster their ranks, Hale oversees eight health promoters at the Blue Ridge Medical Center who volunteered more than 350 hours this year to visit with migrant and permanent farm workers at the various camps, determining their needs while giving them information about various health care issues like diabetes, high blood pressure, and obesity risks.

Henry Chiles, who owns the Chiles family orchards, said he and his managers try to make sure all of their workers get the health care access they need, providing them with transportation if need be.

“As far as I know, everyone’s been taken care of and is in good shape,” said Chiles.

And there’s hope that the underfunded BRMC program will be back on wheels next year. Whitehead said the group has hired a part-time bilingual nurse practitioner, and that the provider shortage shouldn’t exist next year

“By the time we get to the season again next year, we should be in great shape,” she said. “It shouldn’t be so difficult.”

 

 

 

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The Editor's Desk

Editor’s Note: On the road and back again

Widely interpreted as a metaphor for J.R.R. Tolkien’s personal experience during World War I and afterwards, The Hobbit was originally published in 1937 with the alternative title There and Back Again. A comfortable bourgeois man is vacuumed out of his house into a global struggle between good and evil, then returns to the shire changed for good.

About a million Englishmen died in the Great War, and only a few years later another generation went to war and came home again, changed. The story of ordinary men capable of extraordinary courage keeping a lid on their experiences as they sipped their tea became a defining cultural narrative.

The stories we tell ourselves are important. I once took a 20th century American literature class in which the professor, an English literary critic, said all of our country’s writing can be understood in relationship to its East-West axis, which operates both geographically and temporally. He saw it in The Great Gatsby, The Sun Also Rises, and East of Eden.

Our paradise is in the future, in the West, where progress lies, but we are stuck mourning our past, which remains in the East. In the ’50s and ’60s Woody Guthrie, Jack Kerouac, and The Beach Boys helped us construct a myth about hitting the road bound for the Pacific Coast, and, to a large degree, people followed it, despite Bob Dylan’s warnings. California may not be full, exactly, but as a dreamland it’s at capacity. A million people found their way to San Jose; three times that many have settled in the O.C.

This week’s feature tells the stories of men and women who grew up in Charlottesville and left in search of greener pastures, only to return home again to start businesses and families. It touches on the larger story of the Baby Boomer generation and their children, Gen X and Y-ers who are increasingly moving home again. Meet the Boomerangers. I suspect we’ll keep telling ourselves versions of this story until we can answer a deceptively simple question: How do you make progress without moving up and out?

Categories
Living

Remembering local farmer Richard Bean

Eleven years ago, in the spring, my friend Leslie told me she was going to an organic farm to interview for a job. She’d seen a flyer at Integral Yoga. Did I want to come too and maybe work with her?

I asked how much it paid. Five bucks an hour, she said. I laughed and said no thanks, but I’d come along for the ride.

We drove deep into Nelson County. At Double H Farm, Jean Rinaldi greeted us and took us out to the middle of a huge vegetable patch to meet her partner, Richard Bean.

I still remember Richard, sitting on the seat of his Gator on that warm day, sizing us up from under his hat brim. Somehow, by the end of our brief conversation, Leslie and I had both gotten hired. We reported for our first day of work. From 7am until noon, we hoed weeds. Richard gave us an hour for lunch and we laid in the shade. Then we hoed again until 4pm, and went home, barely able to stand up straight.

Having passed this test, we stayed and worked all summer. Richard had us plant cabbage, harvest parsley, and tie tomato plants. We picked tomatoes, too, filling big plastic lugs and then hoofing them up the hill to the barn. We washed kale and packed produce boxes full of beets and lettuce.

The farm was a magical place, redolent of pigs, rotting Brandywines, and fresh, bushy basil. Tomato plants tarred my fingers and red clay painted my clothes. Richard was at the center of it—a looming figure in clogs and button-up shirts, with a loud voice that could be gruff or merry, depending. He was a butcher and a farmer and a onetime grocer. He’d spent his life feeding people. He had white hair, a brassy face, and a belt buckle shaped like a pig.

I fell hard for farming, and Richard was my guide. He drilled me on the importance of soil, and drove me around the fields on the Gator, delivering mini-lectures on nematodes or nitrogen. Over the next few years, as I became a bigger part of the farm—working the Double H table at the Nelson farmer’s market—he kept on schooling me, in his peculiar, blustery way: half-teasing, half-challenging.

My boyfriend and I built the kind of friendship with Jean and Richard that people call “unlikely.” We were new to Virginia then, and their kindness was intertwined with the way we learned to feel at home here. It happened on a cellular level, as we sat at their table, eating the food they’d raised; or at home, as I scrubbed the Double H clay off my skin.

Our friendship wasn’t always comfortable. Richard had strong opinions and zero political correctness. He wasn’t exactly a man of contradictions, but he was a one-of-a-kind collage. As a young man, he’d learned Farsi in order to serve in the Peace Corps in Iran. He was an expert hog farmer, a dyed-in-the-wool organic grower who planted veggies by the moon, and an old-school Yankee libertarian—a self-styled “radical.”

He believed in tough love and disciplining your kids, and a kind of generosity defined by personal responsibility. After Hurricane Katrina, he and Jean jumped in their trademark yellow van and headed for the Gulf Coast to help anyone they could. As for me and my boyfriend, now my husband, Richard was a father figure. He encouraged our attempts at self-sufficiency, rolled his eyes at us, and told us he was proud of us. He loved to introduce me as his “original slave.”

Sitting behind a farmer’s market table with Richard—as I have done many times over the years—it quickly became clear that many people saw him as a cornerstone of local farming. They came with questions and left with more answers than they’d bargained for. “There’s room for everyone,” I often heard Richard say, referring to the proliferation of small farms. Though Double H outlasted many of those operations—lots of them founded by the young and naïve—Richard encouraged anyone he thought was worth a damn. And he worked for years to make it easier for small farms to survive in the world of big ag.

In 2007, Richard and Jean were both arrested for slaughtering their own pigs instead of taking them to a federally-inspected facility. The case became national news. Richard told The Washington Post he was ready to go to jail. That didn’t happen, but the episode made clear how serious the small farm question is, and the depth of Richard’s commitment to it.

Richard’s son David recently told me that the last chapter of his father’s life—the 16 or so years he spent living and farming in Virginia—was his favorite. It was a roller coaster, with farm workers coming and going, legal troubles, and several tough years of battling cancer. But his accomplishments during that time were enormous. He built a business, brought a family from Armenia to partner with him and Jean, and carved a muddy hillside into a farm that positively vibrated with the goodness of real food. And he assembled a family of friends: chefs, growers, healers, and eaters.

Richard died on November 27, the day before the great American feast day, Thanksgiving. He was 69.

He comes to my mind at odd moments. I felt a fleeting shock when I thought of next summer’s solstice, and Richard not being here for it. Or stepping into our greenhouse to pick winter lettuce, and realizing we probably wouldn’t even be growing lettuce in the winter had Richard not loaned me that Eliot Coleman book back in 2003.

This place won’t taste nearly as good without him.

Categories
News

Big pot bust, AccessUVA, Alexis Murphy: News briefs

Check c-ville.com daily and pick up a copy of the paper Wednesdays for the latest Charlottesville and Albemarle news briefs and stories. Here’s a quick look at some of what we’ve had an eye on for the past week.

Gone to pot

Virginia State Police made a major dent in local pot production in a two-county bust that netted the arrest of two men, a million dollars of marijuana, more than 40 weapons, and $14,000 in cash. According to a police press release, the men, Floyd J. Suddarth, 65, of Fluvanna, and David C. Ragland Jr., 64, of Schuyler, were arrested in early October and have both been charged with possession with intent to distribute marijuana, manufacturing marijuana, conspiracy to manufacture marijuana and conspiracy to possess marijuana with intent to distribute. Suddarth is also charged with possessing a gun and marijuana.

The arrests came after state police received a tip that led them to discover 110 plants between 10′ and 12′ high growing off Kidds Dairy Road in Fluvanna. Police estimate the street value of those plants at $330,000. Additional searches of Ragland and Suddarth’s homes yielded another 172 pounds of marijuana, with an estimated street value of $602,000 (a per-ounce cost of nearly $220), along with the weapons and cash.

Both men are being held in the Central Virginia Regional Jail in Orange, and are scheduled for preliminary hearings on December 17 in Fluvanna County District Court.

Correction: David Camm Ragland Jr. does not have a previous conviction in Nelson County. That is a different David Camm Ragland.

AccessUVA gets chopped 

In an effort to reverse the ballooning costs of AccessUVA, the nine-year-old program that provides grants to low-income students, the UVA Board of Visitors has voted to replace $7,000 in grant aid with loans for new students starting in 2014, according to The Daily Progress. The cost of the program had nearly quadrupled from $11 million in 2004, its first year, to $40 million this year.

Critics of the cut include current AccessUVA students, who will not be affected by the change, but who believe reduced assistance will discourage poor students from attending UVA, which is already rated one of the least socioeconomically diverse public institutions in the nation by the New America Foundation.

UVA spokesperson McGregor McCance defended the move as necessary to prevent the program’s future costs from soaring, and President Teresa Sullivan expressed hope that additional cuts won’t be necessary. She hopes to start an endowment that will permanently support AccessUVA, she told the Progress, and she put her money where her mouth is by promptly donating her own 2 percent raise to AccessUVA.

Alexis Murphy search continues, another girl missing

Nearly four months after 17-year-old Nelson County teen Alexis Murphy vanished on August 3 after tweeting she was going to Lynchburg, her friends and family conducted a search on Sunday, December 1, scouring the stretch of Route 29 between the Liberty gas station in Lovingston, where Murphy was spotted on surveillance video the day she disappeared, and the property on which suspect Randy Taylor lived, according to The Daily Progress. Searchers, who included members of Murphy’s family, were briefly asked to leave the property by Louisa Turner, the mother of Taylor’s son. Turner’s mother owns the property, according to Nelson County property records, and after a tense encounter between Turner and searchers described by the Progess, Turner permitted the search to go on.

Two days before the search for Murphy, another 18-year-old woman vanished from Lynchburg, about 30 minutes south of Shipman, where Murphy lived. Jamisha Gilbert was last seen by friendson Friday morning, November 29, according to accounts in the Lynchburg News & Advance. Her car, a 2002 burgundy Honda Accord, was found wrecked several hours after she was last seen. Authorities suspect foul play and have set up a hotline for tips in Lynchburg at (434)455-4090.

New Northside Library design gets nod from county review board

The Northside Library is one step closer to getting a new home in a Rio Road warehouse.

In a Monday meeting, the Albemarle County Architectural Review Board granted conditional approval of the Jefferson-Madison Regional Library’s plans to move the Northside Branch—the county’s busiest library—from its overcrowded storefront in Albemarle Square to a three-acre property on West Rio Road that used to house part of Phillips Building Supply. Officials originally sought approval of their plans for the $11.8 million project in September, but were sent back to the drawing board to make design changes.

Ohio-based architecture firm HBN’s updated design features a blue-and-yellow facade that drew criticism from some observers at the meeting, according to Charlottesville Tomorrow. But despite the criticism and some concern from the board’s chair about the affordability of the project, CT reported the ARB cleared the plans, pending further review of a proposed book drop-off.

Library officials hope to break ground in February and open the new library by next October.—C-VILLE writers