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Fired up: The training days and nights of CFD’s newest recruits

When several vacancies in the Charlottesville Fire Department opened at the same time, Fire Chief Andrew Baxter (who’s been chief for a little more than a year) decided to institute a new hiring process. The in-depth application, which included a personal history questionnaire, was meant to find candidates who were not only qualified to be firefighters (although previous firefighting experience is not a requirement) but who also had leadership experience (everything from Boy Scouts to combat veterans) and who were involved in their communities.

The search began in March, and about 300 people applied for one of eight open positions. The field was eventually whittled to the top 22 “highly qualified” candidates, whom Baxter interviewed in person. The eight new hires then participated in a recruit academy, a five-days-a-week, 10-hours-a-day training academy from August 1 through graduation on October 4.

Training exercises included everything from physical fitness tests and in-class training on the science of fire and how to use equipment to applying lessons they’ve learned in a burn demonstration at the CFD’s training facility on Avon Street.

By holding the academy with all the new hires at once as opposed to training them individually, it not only allowed the fire department to imprint its values as an organization on the recruits, but it allowed the recruits themselves to form a unique bond. Baxter hopes that decades from now (he tells all recruits that he expects them to stay with the “family” for 30 years before retiring) they will still proudly look back on being part of Recruit Academy One.

Baxter says the department will have another hiring round in 2017, but says the single recruit academy model may not be sustainable because in the gaps between hiring, current firefighters often accrue overtime hours. But, he said they would possibly pursue a regional model, by teaming up with Albemarle, Orange and Louisa counties to organize a central training academy.

The graduates of the recruit academy officially went into the field on October 8. Photographer and volunteer firefighter for the Crozet Volunteer Fire Department and a career firefighter for the city of Waynesboro Justin Ide followed them through the recruit academy as well as their first few days at work. We asked the new firefighters about the training process and why they chose this public service-oriented profession.—Jessica Luck

Photos by Justin Ide

Ben Weidinger, Michael Barber and Micah Terrell work out in the bay prior to class at the recruit academy. Photo by Justin Ide
Ben Weidinger, Michael Barber and Micah Terrell work out in the bay prior to class at the recruit academy. Photo by Justin Ide
Recruit Kelly Jackson holds a plank position during a workout. Photo by Justin Ide
Recruit Kelly Jackson holds a plank position during a workout. Photo by Justin Ide
Ryan Snoddy does planks for time during a workout. Photo by Justin Ide
Ryan Snoddy does planks for time during a workout. Photo by Justin Ide

The Charlottesville Fire Department has 91 full-time employees, three of whom are civilians. And the firefighters are stationed at three facilities throughout the city: on Ridge Street, Fontaine Avenue, and McIntire Road near the 250 Bypass. Each day there are a minimum of 19 firefighters working, including two firefighters/paramedics stationed with the Charlottesville-Albemarle Rescue Squad. Fire Chief Andrew Baxter says one of the biggest challenges in the firefighting profession is that people have a simplistic view of firefighting, something akin to “Chicago Fire.” But that’s only a small piece of what they do: Last week, for example, they read to first-graders as part of Fire Prevention Week. Other tasks include performing inspections and investigations, and EMS calls make up the majority of the emergency calls they receive.


Recruits are introduced to their bunker gear, also called turnout gear, by Jess Rodzinka, second from right, lead instructor of the recruit academy. Photo by Justin Ide
Recruits are introduced to their bunker gear, also called turnout gear, by Jess Rodzinka, second from right, lead instructor of the recruit academy. Photo by Justin Ide
Recruit Michael Barber, center, receives his helmet from firefighter Kevin Pfeilsticker, while recruits Ben Weidinger and Kelly Jackson try theirs on for size. Photo by Justin Ide
Recruit Michael Barber, center, receives his helmet from firefighter Kevin Pfeilsticker, while recruits Ben Weidinger and Kelly Jackson try theirs on for size. Photo by Justin Ide
Micah Terrell, left, watches as firefighter Andy Soccodato goes over the daily morning check of the EMS bags found on the engine during Terrell’s first shift as a firefighter. Photo by Justin Ide
Firefighter Kennon Snow, left, instructs Michael Barber on how to breathe with a mask while other new recruits watch and wait their turn. Firefighters have to go through a yearly fit test to assure they are getting a proper seal on their mask. Photo by Justin Ide
Firefighter Kennon Snow, left, instructs Michael Barber on how to breathe with a mask while other new recruits watch and wait their turn. Firefighters have to go through a yearly fit test to assure they are getting a proper seal on their mask. Photo by Justin Ide
Firefighter Kennon Snow, left, instructs Michael Barber on how to breathe with a mask while other new recruits watch and wait their turn. Firefighters have to go through a yearly fit test to assure they are getting a proper seal on their mask. Photo by Justin Ide

 

Micah Terrell organizes his gear while on his first fire call for a ringing smoke detector on his first day on the job. Photo by Justin Ide
Micah Terrell organizes his gear while on his first fire call for a ringing smoke detector on his first day on the job. Photo by Justin Ide
Micah Terrell installs a new detector at the resident’s home for free. Photo by Justin Ide
Micah Terrell installs a new detector at the resident’s home for free. Photo by Justin Ide
Captain Lee James, center in yellow helmet, talks with a maintenance man, left, while Micah Terrell looks on during a fire alarm call in a high-rise residential structure. Photo by Justin Ide
Captain Lee James, center in yellow helmet, talks with a maintenance man, left, while Micah Terrell looks on during a fire alarm call in a high-rise residential structure. Photo by Justin Ide
Ryan Snoddy, left, listens to firefighter Andy Soccodato talk about fire attack techniques and the advantages and disadvantages of the 2.5-inch attack hose in a structure fire. Photo by Justin Ide
Ryan Snoddy, left, listens to firefighter Andy Soccodato talk about fire attack techniques and the advantages and disadvantages of the 2.5-inch attack hose in a structure fire. Photo by Justin Ide
Recruit Kenneth Davis puts out a car fire on the department’s training grounds under the watchful eye of firefighter Kennon Snow. Photo by Justin Ide
Recruit Kenneth Davis puts out a car fire on the department’s training grounds under the watchful eye of firefighter Kennon Snow. Photo by Justin Ide
Brandon Leonard pushes past the pain while dragging a hose to the second floor of the burn building on the training grounds. Photo by Justin Ide
Brandon Leonard pushes past the pain while dragging a hose to the second floor of the burn building on the training grounds. Photo by Justin Ide
Micah Terrell listens to firefighter Kennon Snow during training on car fires. Photo by Justin Ide
Micah Terrell listens to firefighter Kennon Snow during training on car fires. Photo by Justin Ide
Kelly Jackson bleeds a 2.5-inch charged hose line prior to bringing it into the burn building on the training grounds. Photo by Justin Ide
Kelly Jackson bleeds a 2.5-inch charged hose line prior to bringing it into the burn building on the training grounds. Photo by Justin Ide

Recruit Academy 1

Brandon Leonard, 30

Leonard, who has lived in the Charlottesville area for 10 years, says seeing 9/11 happen as a 16-year-old is what sparked his decision to become a firefighter. He served as a firefighter in the Navy on the USS Enterprise, before moving into the firefighting profession full-time. He worked in Campbell County most recently, and says the history of the Charlottesville department is what led him to apply for a position here.

“This department’s a lot more of family than my old department, that stood out in the recruit school,” he says. “They take care of their own—that’s pretty good to see.”

One thing people might not be aware of, he says, is that firefighters work on 24-hours shifts, sleeping at the facility and eating together as a family when not out on runs. He calls the department a “brotherhood.”

“This has just been my calling the entire time. I feel at home doing this kind of work,” he says. “I get satisfaction out of the job, but that’s not what I’m here for. It’s just something I enjoy doing, I enjoy helping people.”

Kenneth Davis, 36

Davis didn’t set out to be a firefighter. Instead, he followed his music passion all over the country, eventually joining Charlottesville rock band Under the Flood, which signed a multi-album deal with Koch Records. Davis still has a foot in the music world—he works as a manager at the Jefferson Theater—but says a December 2015 ridealong with a firefighter friend changed his life. He was soul-searching and looking for the next passion he wanted to pursue and says “when I found this it clicked right away. …When you watch the news you’re always like, ‘I wish there was something I could do to help.’ This is the opportunity to do that.”

For Davis, one of the most exciting aspects of the job is the chance to keep learning. “It’s one thing to learn in the classroom and books, but getting out in the real-world environment is another thing.”

Ben Weidinger, 24

UVA grad Weidinger is no stranger to helping people, especially when it comes to the EMS side of firefighting. He grew up working in his mom’s veterinary clinic in Yorktown, and after graduating with a pre-med degree he volunteered at Sentara Martha Jefferson Hospital and at a free clinic in his hometown. He chose to join CFD as “a way to increase my knowledge of medicine and be physical; help people, especially while I’m young.”

Weidinger says most people are likely not aware of how much EMS (emergency medical services) work firefighters do, in that they are often the first responders to a scene and start medical treatment before an ambulance arrives.

“I would say that coming from someone who had very little experience of public service in any regard about a year and a half ago, there’s so much more to it than you would believe,” he says. “You see a firefighter and think, ‘Oh, they’re going to put out a fire.’ That’s the only thing you see, and with public education and emergency medical services they respond to pretty much everything.”

Michael Barber, 30

Every day in high school on his walk home from rugby practice, Barber would pass the local volunteer firehouse. He often wondered what it would be like to join them, and he got his chance at Lynchburg College, after discovering the school did not have a rugby club. When a student rep for the college rescue squad gave her pitch to the freshman class, Barber decided to give it a shot. One week later he had an interview, and the week after that he was voted onto the squad. The following semester he became the organization’s secretary. Still, he always thought of firefighting as a volunteer gig (after college he volunteered in Lynchburg and in Chapel Hill, North Carolina) until 2012, when he received a call from his old fire chief in Virginia. Barber was looking for a change and decided to make firefighting a full-time career, joining the Wintergreen Fire Rescue Squad.

Barber is looking forward to working with a larger department (Charlottesville’s department is three times the size of Wintergreen) that receives a variety of calls each day. Being in a less rural area allows firefighters to be on an emergency scene more quickly, and allows them to enter a structure and put out a fire quickly before it does more damage.

“I’m most excited about being a part of this new family,” he says. “It doesn’t matter what department you ever run on, once you’re part of it, you’re a part of the family.”

Kelly Jackson, 25

New recruit Jackson never had aspirations to become a firefighter. But the former personal trainer was working in the Washington, D.C., area, and a couple of her firefighter friends encouraged her to switch careers. She shrugged it off until applying on a whim one day—she sent applications to several departments, including ones closer to her hometown of Lynchburg, as well as one in Maryland near her brother.

Because she’s new to the field, she said she had zero expectations going into the recruit academy.

“It was pretty difficult because it was so much information in a short amount of time,” she says. “It took a lot of discipline and studying on our own to really soak in everything that was thrown at us.” She said the best part of the academy was getting out of the classroom and going on ridealongs; seeing what a regular day was like. What she looks forward to most is that each day on the job is different.

“I couldn’t have an office job or something that you just do the same stuff over and over and over again,” she says. “Here you never know, you could have nothing or you could never sit down all day. It’s going to be a challenge, and I like that part.”

Jason Frazier, 31

Because of his military background (he joined the active duty Marine Corps after high school and is now in the reserves) Frazier says it’s the structure of the fire department that appeals to him most. He’s spent five years attempting to join the Charlottesville department, and has gained certifications along the way.

“With a lot of hard work and a little bit of luck I landed this position,” says the Crozet native.

Frazier joined the recruit class a little later than everyone else because he just came off a nine-month deployment in Qatar.

He knew what to expect in terms of firefighting duties because he’s volunteered for three years at the Crozet department, but he says the biggest takeaway in his time at CFD is how helpful everyone has been in answering questions and showing him the way they do things.

“For me it’s more that I like the brotherhood; the atmosphere of it is not just a job—it’s something you enjoy going to every day,” he says. “It’s a second family almost.”

Ryan Snoddy, 26

Firefighting is a true family affair for Snoddy. His dad, Vernon, retired after 30 years with the Charlottesville Fire Department, and Snoddy says he aspires to live up to his dad’s reputation.

“Growing up I learned from him that patience is the key to everything,” he says. “He did everything to the best of his ability, and his actions speak louder than words.”

Snoddy’s background as a car mechanic translates well into his new profession, because of the tactile, hands-on focus of both, he says. He made the leap into firefighting to help others and because of its team mentality, and he is looking forward to continuing to prove himself in this new job and earn the respect of his fellow firefighters.

“Being a firefighter you have to be a jack of all trades,” he says. “I’m looking forward to getting to learn every day.”

Categories
News

Fire line: One man documents his journey from photographer to firefighter

As a photojournalist for the last 25 years, working at both small and large newspapers in West Virginia and Boston, I was constantly on the outside of the fire line, shooting photos and telling the stories of those affected by fires, and the firefighters themselves. Firefighters were easy to talk to and hang around with, and like most anyone, if you showed interest in them, and brought them a few photos from the last job, or fire you were at, they welcomed you with open, and sometimes wet, sooty arms. 

As a boy growing up in small town Connecticut, a number of my neighbors were volunteer firefighters. With each blast of the huge Cold War-era siren affixed to the roof of the fire station, I would watch riveted as they jumped into their cars and raced up the street, tires screeching and lights flashing, answering a call for help from someone in our community. I admired them from afar.

Members of the Firefighter I class, left to right, Robert Johnson, Elise Lindquist, and Kevin Mast, advance a hose line on a simulated car fire at ACFR's training center. Photo: Justin Ide
Members of the Firefighter I class, left to right, Robert Johnson, Elise Lindquist, and Kevin Mast, advance a hose line on a simulated car fire at ACFR’s training center. Photo: Justin Ide

I hadn’t considered becoming a volunteer firefighter myself until my wife and I moved to the Charlottesville area just over two years ago , and I transitioned from a full-time job as a photographer to working as a freelancer. With the increased time and flexibility in my schedule, the siren song of the fire service grew louder, and last year, I crossed that fire line to become an insider when I joined the Crozet Volunteer Fire Department and Ivy Fire Rescue, both a part of Albemarle County Fire Rescue (ACFR).

Seminole Trail firefighter Holly Downs advances a line at a fully involved house fire on Dick Woods Road, January 26, 2014.
Seminole Trail firefighter Holly Downs advances a line at a fully involved house fire on Dick Woods Road, January 26, 2014. Photo: Justin Ide

Becoming a volunteer in Albemarle County is as simple as walking into a firehouse or signing up online, but it’s also a significant commitment that requires certification through the Virginia Department of Fire Programs. The grueling six-month Firefighter I course comes with an 1,100-page manual and what seems like countless hours of course and practical training at the ACFR Fire Training Center, an apocolyptic concrete structure on Avon Street behind the Albemarle Charlottesville Regional Jail.

Crozet Volunteer Fire Department member Gary Dillon, center, discusse his training role in an after-action debriefing.
Crozet Volunteer Fire Department member Gary Dillon, center, discusse his training role in an after-action debriefing. Photo Justin Ide

Training as a red helmet, or new recruit, begins with basic safety. If you’re not safe, you’re of no use to anyone else at an emergency scene, so knowing how to properly protect yourself with bunker gear and use of an SCBA (self contained breathing apparatus) is hammered into new recruits on a regular basis. Bunker drills, putting on your gear correctly, as fast as you can until it becomes second nature, takes up a lot of early class time.

A "victim" is rescued during live fire training at Augusta County's training center.
A “victim” is rescued during live fire training at Augusta County’s training center. Photo: Justin Ide

Besides the physical challenges of training, building a team mentality among recruits is a critical aspect of the course. We’re taught early on that firefighters should never be alone. Freelancing, as it’s known, is considered taboo and if encountered by an instructor, is corrected with more bunker drills for everyone and hopefully a lesson learned. Early understanding of the brotherhood, lauded most recently when two firefighters died in the line of duty in Boston, is instilled throughout the class.

Probationary firefighter Chris Rivera, from Station 5 Crozet, looks up as he prepares to throw a ladder.
Probationary firefighter Chris Rivera, from Station 5 Crozet, looks up as he prepares to throw a ladder. Photo: Justin Ide

The best part of becoming an insider in the fire service has been my re-introduction to, and, hopefully, my eventual inclusion in the brotherhood of people—men and women—who pour everything they have into this profession. Volunteering has brought me a sense of pride and accomplishment, and when I arrive on scene and am able to help someone else in need, I’m grateful for the privilege.

Probationary firefighter Robert Johnson, from Station 8 Seminole Trail, waits for orders while on the scene of a mulch fire in North Garden.
Probationary firefighter Robert Johnson, from Station 8 Seminole Trail, waits for orders while on the scene of a mulch fire in North Garden. Photo: Justin Ide

 

 

 

Proabtionary firefighter Michael Adcock of Crozet Volunteer Fire Department prepares to enter a burning house as part of a live fire training drill. Photo: Justin Ide
Proabtionary firefighter Michael Adcock of Crozet Volunteer Fire Department prepares to enter a burning house as part of a live fire training drill. Photo: Justin Ide

 

Division Chief of Training for ACFR, Scott Lambert, oversees drills for the Firefighter I class at the training center.
Division Chief of Training for ACFR, Scott Lambert, oversees drills for the Firefighter I class at the training center. Photo: Justin Ide

 

Firefighters Adam Shifflett, left, and Will Barnhardt, from Station 5 Crozet, douse a fully involved house fire on Dick Woods Road, Januiary 26, 2014.
Firefighters Adam Shifflett, left, and Will Barnhardt, from Station 5 Crozet, douse a fully involved house fire on Dick Woods Road, Januiary 26, 2014. Photo: Justin Ide
Members from ACFR train a hose line on a house fire while others make entry on a cold night on Woodlands Road, January 28, 2014. Photo: Justin Ide
Members from ACFR train a hose line on a house fire while others make entry on a cold night on Woodlands Road, January 28, 2014. Photo: Justin Ide
Firefighter John Gabel, from Station 15 Ivy, covers the microphone to his radio while waiting for instructions at a mulch fire, January 26, 2014. Photo: Justin Ide
Firefighter John Gabel, from Station 15 Ivy, covers the microphone to his radio while waiting for instructions at a mulch fire, January 26, 2014. Photo: Justin Ide
Categories
Living

Craig Hartman’s Rising Star pick: Curtis Shaver of Hamiltons’ at First & Main

“Many young chefs flair up like a meteor flashing across the sky,” says Craig Hartman. “But a chef that spends a lifetime toiling in the kitchen has to have everything it takes to run a marathon of consistency.”

According to Hartman, Curtis Shaver of Hamiltons’, at 31, has what it takes.

Hartman first met Shaver when he hired him as a cook at Cornell University. Years later, Hartman recruited Shaver to come to Charlottesville to join him in the kitchen at Fossett’s. Shaver eventually moved on to become a sous chef at the beloved Duner’s restaurant, a position he held until earlier this year, when he took his first head chef job, at Hamiltons’.

There, Shaver is letting loose, using what he calls “a modern Southern approach to good honest food,” with some Mediterranean and other worldly flavors thrown in, like the ancho chili, one of his favorite ingredients.

“It is a staple in a lot of my recipes,” says Shaver. “I like the dark roasted flavor it has, and the subtle sweet-to-heat ratio.”

Shaver sees the Charlottesville food scene as one that’s gaining momentum alongside the local food movement, with simple preparations of ingredient-driven food, freshly sourced from the area’s rich agricultural tradition.

He thinks that lends itself well to a customer base that wants dining to feel casual and comfortable.

“I think that the general public isn’t eating as much or wanting to sit down for hours at a time,” he says. “Good quality food that’s not very hard to explain to the customers”—that’s what he is striving to make. “I’m not trying to do anything too overly sophisticated for anybody.”

 

Chef’s choice

Sandwich: The Fardowner’s smoked pastrami rueben with tater tots. Make it dirty by adding jalapeños.

Burger: The Bison Burger at Beer Run. Goes great with a Little Sumpin’ Sumpin’ by Lagunitas Brewing, or whatever Noles suggests.

Dessert: Cookies and Cream ice cream at home and Netflix.

Cocktail: Does it get any better than a greyhound at the C&O?

Virginia wine: Barboursville Octagon

Virginia beer: Starr Hill’s Grateful, easy drinkin’.

Breakfast: Two eggs over easy with hash browns, corned beef hash, wheat toast, coffee, OJ, glass of water, and hot sauce from Tip Top.

Guilty pleasure: Dumplings From Marco & Luca’s and Spudnuts.

Pizza: The Bellissima from Dr. Ho’s. Roasted tomatoes,Turner country ham,arugula salad

Appetizer: Soup dumplings from Taste of China

Taco: Mercedes and Shelia’s staff lunch at Duner’s. Love those girls.

Bodo’s order: Sausage and egg on an everything bagel with muenster, tomato, and pepper relish.

Local ingredient: Any greens grown at Double H Farm. Richard and Arra are great people and grow great produce. They got some tasty pigs too!

Categories
Living

Melissa Close-Hart’s Rising Star pick: Amalia Scatena of Pippin Hill Farm & Vineyard

A protege of not one but two Mount Rushmore chefs, Pippin Hill’s Amalia Scatena has been groomed for success. She spent a year and a half as an intern turned line cook at Palladio under Melissa Close-Hart. Then, starting in 2006, she spent nearly five years with Craig Hartman at Fossett’s, much of it as Chef de Cuisine.

In 2011, Scatena was lured south of town to open the restaurant at Pippin Hill Farm & Vineyard, which in addition to catering private events, serves lunch six days a week. Thanks to Scatena, the premier wedding venue has quickly become one of the top foodie destinations in the area, with homey but exquisite dishes like chicken liver pâté, Pippin Sliders with Bundoran Farm’s grass-fed beef, and her already famous Petit Verdot cupcakes, made with Pippin Hill wine.

A short walk outside her kitchen, amidst the breathtaking setting of the vineyard, her kitchen garden is a source of inspiration on a daily basis.

“I like combining Mediterranean techniques with Southern ingredients, to showcase the food without overcomplicating the dish,” she explains.

Close-Hart picked Scatena as her chef-to-watch in part because of her determination and love of food.

“Her passion for cooking was apparent from the get-go,” said Close-Hart. “She has followed her dreams and has worked extremely hard to garner her success.”

Apart from a stint at culinary school in Italy, Scatena has called Charlottesville her home since she was 15.

“Every time I think about leaving Charlottesville to pursue a culinary career in another state, the next best steps are right here in Charlottesville,” she says.

For Scatena, the Virginia Piedmont is fertile ground for a young chef looking to make her mark.

“We’re so lucky to be in an area that just flourishes with ingredients. There’s nothing that we can’t really grow here. As a chef, that’s very exciting,” she says.

 

Chef’s choice

Sandwich: The Italian from Feast!

Burger: Riverside burger with mustard, pickles, lettuce

Dessert: Sweetfrog ice cream, with loads of gummy bears.

Cocktail: I don’t drink. I drink Kombucha.

Virginia wine: Pippin Hill’s Sparkling Blanc de Blanc and Barboursville Octagon

Breakfast: Two eggs over easy, wheat toast, sausages, and hashbrowns from Blue Grass Grill

Guilty pleasure: Sea Salt Caramel

Hangover food: Hamiltons’ brunch

Pizza: Christian’s

Appetizer: Dried fried eggplant from Taste of China

Bodo’s order: BLT on wheat everything

Local ingredient: spices from the Spice Diva

Categories
Living

Tim Burgess and Vincent Derquenne’s Rising Star pick: Tucker Yoder of Clifton Inn

“I think Tucker, more than any of the young chefs, pushes the envelope,” says Tim Burgess of his rising star pick, Tucker Yoder. “All these guys have passion screaming out of their ears, so that’s a constant. But, I like a chef that takes chances.”

And that’s just what the 37-year-old Yoder does while running the kitchen of Clifton Inn, though he wouldn’t say it outright. “I take good stuff and try not to screw it up,” Yoder says.

Humble he may be, but the reality is that, while Yoder is more comfortable behind the line than in the spotlight, he’s fast becoming a recognizable figure in the food scene, always looking for something new and innovative to do with his food and always open to collaboration. It’s hard not to be noticed when you preside over a restaurant as acclaimed as Clifton.

What sets him apart, though, as Burgess points out, is his willingness to experiment. He might smoke tofu and serve it as if it were a silken puree, or prepare a duck liver mousse under a nasturtium leaf that diners are told to eat by pinching and lifting the leaf.

Yoder’s current role as executive chef of Clifton is actually his second stint there. In the mid-2000s, the former New England Culinary Institute graduate served as Clifton’s sous chef before leaving for Lexington to help transform The Red Hen into one of Central Virginia’s most progressive restaurants. He returned to Clifton Inn in October 2010 as head chef, bringing with him a fresh take on regional cuisine.

“I like to use everything,” he says. “And, when I see something new, I like to see what I can do with it.”

What does the future look like for a talented young chef?

“More collaborative events like Hill & Holler and other farm dinners to get the culinary community together,” he says.

 

Chef’s choice

Sandwich: No Bull Burger with pepper jack and a side of chipoltle aioli from Beer Run.

Dessert: Dr. Ho’s ice cream sandwiches.

Cocktail: Whatever Mezcal thing Nick [Crutchfield] wants to make me at Commonwealth [Restaurant & Skybar].

Virginia wine: Thibaut-Janisson Blanc de Chardonnay.

Virginia beer/cider: Foggy Ridge Pippin Black.

Breakfast: Mushroom omlettes at home.

Guilty pleasure: Micheladas at El Tepeyac.

Hangover food: Leftover pork BBQ from Blue Ridge Pig.

Pizza: Crozet Pizza with veggies and lots of garlic.

Appetizer: Maya’s fried oysters.

Taco: Lengua or Tripa from El Tepeyac.

Bodo’s order: Pastrami, provolone, sprouts, mustard on garlic bagel

Local ingredient: All of them. Free Union Grass Farm Ducks.

Categories
Living

Full hearts, full bellies: Area kitchens’ heavy hitters band together for a good cause

The culinary world in general is a small and intimate one, and in a town the size of Charlottesville, it’s akin to an extended family. Like most extended families, Charlottesville’s culinary clan can be dysfunctional or wild from time to time, but when faced with a tragedy within, ranks are closed and everyone responds with their heart and soul. On August 18 at Glass Haus Kitchen, a veritable who’s who of the local culinary world gathered to raise money for two of their own, chef Melissa Close-Hart of Palladio Restaurant at Barboursville Vineyards and her husband, Matthew Hart of The Local, who lost their home to a fire in mid-July.

About 90 guests filled Glass Haus Kitchen to support Melissa Close-Hart and Matthew Hart, whose house burnt down in mid-July. Photo: Justin Ide
About 90 guests filled Glass Haus Kitchen to support Melissa Close-Hart and Matthew Hart, whose house burnt down in mid-July. Photo: Justin Ide

The event’s organizer, Mike Yager of Glass Haus, explained how it all came about. “We heard Melissa had a fire. I ran over to her house. I saw the damage and came back and started scheming right away,” he said.

Glass Haus chef Ian Boden, who attended culinary school with Close-Hart and prepared the night’s first course, said, “As cooks and chefs, we don’t have a lot of perks in this world, but one of the things we do have is the community we are a part of. It’s always a pretty tight-knit community, so our reaction to any kind of a disaster is to feed people. It’s what we do.”

Each of the night’s five courses were prepared by a different area chef—Jeremy Butterfield of Stonefire Kitchen and Diego Gottardo of Palladio; Craig Hartman and Brooks Tanner of BBQ Exchange; and Curtis Shaver of Hamiltons’ at First & Main, plus the night’s hosts, Boden and Yager.

“Personally, what I want to get out of this is to hang out with a bunch of my buddies and do something good for somebody in the community,” Yager said. “Melissa is like a mother to me. My mom in Arizona deemed her my ‘Virginia Mother.’” And Yager wasn’t the only one in the kitchen with that kind of a connection.

Hartman, one of the elder statesmen of the Charlottesville culinary scene, came from his Gordonsville ’Q joint to help out a longtime friend and colleague.

“We hired Melissa at the Clifton Inn after her first internship from the New England Culinary Institute,” he said. “We fell in love with her right away—her cooking and everything about her.“ After leaving Clifton—which donated to the silent auction—and opening a place in Colorado called the Cliff House, Hartman needed a sous chef. “Right away I thought of her, and oh my gosh, what a job she did.”

All told, about 90 guests filled Glass Haus for the event, including a few other culinary luminaries from around the region who chose to eat rather than cook. Chef Tomas Rahal of MAS; Gay Beery of A Pimento Catering and her husband, Josef; Collins Huff and his wife, Ramona, of Gryffon’s Aerie meats; and chef Amalia Scatena of Pippin Hill Farm & Vineyard were all in attendance, to name a few.

The evening featured five courses from chefs like Craig Hartman of Gordonsville’s BBQ Exchange. Photo: Justin Ide
The evening featured five courses from chefs like Craig Hartman of Gordonsville’s BBQ Exchange. Photo: Justin Ide

When it was all over, attendees had consumed pickled okra, corn gnocchi, striped bass, achiote pork, and oatmeal cream pie, with wine donated by Barboursville and Pollak vineyards.

Said Close-Hart between tears, “It’s meant a lot to us—all this food, friends, and family coming together to help us out in a time of need. The food is awesome, with the Charlottesville heavy hitters in the kitchen. Even if you didn’t know me and Matty, to come here for this dinner would be amazing. We’re just so thankful.”

Categories
Living

PHOTO ESSAY: The making of Restaurant Week

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Rhett’s River Grill. Photo: Justin Ide.
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Rhett’s River Grill. Photo: Justin Ide.
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The Bavarian Chef. Photo: Justin Ide
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Orzo. Photo: Justin Ide
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Paul Chirico of Orzo Kitchen & Wine Bar. Photo: Justin Ide
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Orzo. Photo: Justin Ide
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Tempo. Photo: Justin Ide

 

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Blue Light Grill. Photo: Justin Ide
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Positively 4th Street. Photo: Justin Ide
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Positively 4th Street. Photo: Justin Ide
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Positively Fourth Street. Photo: Justin Ide
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Positively 4th Street. Photo: Justin Ide
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Horse & Hound. Photo: Justin Ide
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Christian Kelly of Maya. Photo: Justin Ide
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Gregory Lewis of Maya. Photo: Justin Ide
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Downtown Grille. Photo: Justin Ide
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Downtown Grille. Photo: Justin Ide
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Downtown Grille. Photo: Justin Ide
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Downtown Grille. Photo: Justin Ide
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Dean Maupin of C&O Restaurant. Photo: Justin Ide
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C&O. Photo: Justin Ide
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C&O. Photo: Justin Ide
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C&O. Photo: Justin Ide
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Jereme Nemeth of Burton’s Grill. Photo: Justin Ide
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Burton’s Grill. Photo: Justin Ide
Best Chef Mid-Atlantic
Glass Haus Kitchen. Photo: Justin Ide
Best Chef Mid-Atlantic
Glass Haus Kitchen. Photo: Justin Ide
Best Chef Mid-Atlantic
Glass Haus Kitchen. Photo: Justin Ide
Ian Boden of Glass Haus Kitchen. Photo: Justin Ide
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Da Luca Bistro & Bar. Photo: Justin Ide
Categories
Living

Order up: Charlottesville preps for Restaurant Week

Our small city has hundreds of places to eat, and when Charlottesville Restaurant Week kicks off next Monday, thousands of people will descend on its eateries both to raise money for the Boys & Girls Club of Charlottesville and to soak in a culinary culture that’s exploded over the past decade. With just shy of 30 restaurants participating this year, offering $16, $26, and $36 dollars price points for their prix fixe menus, it’s a foodie’s dream, a chance to take a core sample of some of the best food the city has to offer without going broke.

Like any trade week, it’s also a chance to take stock of the people whose blood, sweat, and tears make all the pretty plates happen, to peek behind the curtain that separates the back and front of the houses and look into the guts of the places we love. On the other side of each swinging door, in each forgotten corner of a dining room, across every cluttered serving counter, there’s a world that most diners never get to see, or smell, or hear.

Ian Boden of Glass Haus Kitchen. Photo: Justin Ide
Ian Boden of Glass Haus Kitchen. Photo: Justin Ide
Orzo. Photo: Justin Ide
Orzo. Photo: Justin Ide

Yeah, the Food Network and Bravo have familiarized the landscape, transforming cooking into our newest spectator sport, but the restaurant industry doesn’t rely on editing or countdown timers (in most cases) or even on polished personalities. It mostly banks on teams of people who work in close quarters under intense pressure and care so much about the intrinsic value of what they do that they turn out plate after plate of good food. It’s a funny world that combines youthful exuberance and hierarchical discipline into a sweaty, noisy, and exhausting ballet that plays outnight after night.

My own culinary story is similar to many of those you’ll find in kitchens across town. I started cleaning greasy stovetops and oven hoods during the after hours of Sunday morning at a small pub when I was 15, eventually working my way up the kitchen ladder to busboy, waiter, and then finally to bar manager. Restaurants are quirky and they get their hooks into your soul once you’ve experienced them. Many of the chefs you find at the head of the table in some of the finest places started washing dishes or making salads.

In my career as a photographer I’ve shot hundreds of restaurants and I’m always drawn to the back of the house. To the ins and outs of buildings with hundred-year-old histories and jury-rigged kitchens. To the way a chef organizes her station. Or the way a young sous chef takes care of his knife. Or the focus a waitress puts into folding a napkin.

I’ve tried to put together a photographic journey that represents what goes into making a week in the restaurant world happen, in the hopes that you’ll be inspired to go try the food, but mostly, so you’ll remember how much work it takes to make it all look so effortless.

Family business 

Kasey Donnelly, a pastry chef at Maya, told me a fairly typical story about how she got into the business.

“I kind of just fell into it…when I was 15 my brother managed a restaurant and I was his ‘expo.’ Then I kind of moved on to different restaurants, and Mike Yeager, the sous chef at The Glass Haus, got me this job.” I asked her what it was like to work in a small kitchen like Maya’s. “We’re brothers and sisters,” she said. “It’s like family coming in here.”

In many restaurants a type of informal apprenticeship is still the way you get in the door. Anthony Gamma, a student from Johnson and Wales University in Charlotte, North Carolina, is doing an internship at Orzo. “I’ve learned about a lot of different recipes I wouldn’t have in a different type of restaurant, and how Chef [Tommy Lasley] changes things one day to the next based on the ingredients he gets.”

The mentoring relationship, where often times a student will work for free or very little money, teaches the essential skills necessary to succeed in the kitchen, but more importantly it fuels the passion and drive that makes the kitchen a home for many.

Kathryn McAtamney, a UVA student who works at Positively 4th Street on the Downtown Mall, is training as a line cook and waiting tables. She said seeing two side of the business is the best way to understand its totality. “I really love the restaurant business because it is an intimately social experience. Anyone can make good food, but the dining experience is what really makes it special.”

Ara Avagyan. Photo: Justin Ide
Ara Avagyan. Photo: Justin Ide

 

Breaking bread

The family atmosphere in a fast-paced kitchen is perhaps best exemplified by the tradition of sharing a meal before a shift with fellow employees from both the front and back of the house. “It’s great… it gives us a chance to catch up with one another on a more personal level, eat together… break bread, it’s good,” said Melissa Garner, of Orzo’s shift meal. The head chef or someone appointed by the chef, makes a communal meal for the staff each day from over stocked items, left overs from a recent special, or as a way to try out a recipe prior to sending it out to the general public.

Justin Tilghman, who has worked in Charlottesville restaurants since he was 15, says “it usually consists of what we have left over, like salmon or trout scraps and we’ll go anywhere from tempura frying, to smoking them… you name it we’ve done it, but it’s important to come up with something tasty for the staff.”

C&O chef and owner Dean Maupin says his chefs take turns whipping up the staff meal before the shift begins. “Generally the person with the lighter load, less prep work, cooks up something…We want people to feel nourished before service. Typically it is things that are left over and you are forced to be creative, but to make it tasty.”

For the customer, dinner should be a leisurely experience, but for the staff, it’s as fast and furious as the rest of the job.

Maupin: “Rarely do you have a chance to sit down…sometimes we get 15 minutes to sit at the bar and talk, but generally we’re eating on the run.”

Horse & Hound Gastropub. Photo: Justin Ide
Horse & Hound Gastropub. Photo: Justin Ide

 

Mise en place

Mise en place, which translates to “set in place,” is a common term used in kitchens to denote the setup of ingredients at a station, but it’s also an overall organizing principle. Each restaurant has its own idea of what makes up its particular mise en place. For Chef Tommy Lasley at Orzo, mise en place is more of an overall concept than a particular set up for each kitchen station. “Mise en place means a lot of different things,” Lasley said. “But on a grand scheme, I would consider mise en place to be pantry staple items… One of the key components in my mise en place is pickled brine. It’s got the acid, got the flavor of what we pickled with, so right now in the walk-in I have picked ramp brine, pickled garlic scape brine, pickled fennel brine and a standard curry brine,” all of which are available to him to use in sauces, vinaigrettes, and as a splash of brightness on any plate.

The providers 

Another key component to restaurant week, and any good restaurant’s menu, is the produce and proteins purchased from local farmers. During my rounds I ran into a Mennonite farmer from Pleasant Pastures Farm in Charlotte County, Virginia, about 80 miles south of Charlottesville, as he was making a delivery. “I come every Wednesday, and we try to keep everything as fresh as possible,” he said. Slightly hesitant and speaking with a Dutch accent, the farmer declined to be photographed or give me his name, but the pride he took in his produce was crystal clear. “We have committed to raising the produce on our farm completely chemical free, using a lot of compost, compost tea for fertilizer, so that is what is the conviction behind our farm,” he said. Later that day, I crossed paths with Ara and Gayane Avagyan, Armenian immigrants who manage Double H Farm in Nelson County, a purveyor of heirloom pork. “Our goal is to grow healthy food for the people of our community, and to always be number one.” The competition for the best food starts in the fields and pastures.

 

To see more of Justin Ide’s photos from behind the scenes of Restaurant Week, click here!