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Culture Living

Circling back: Pearl Island’s Caribbean cuisine gets a boost from C’ville Builds

If pigeon peas, plantains, and pikliz jumpstart a craving for you, you’re probably a fan of Pearl Island Foods. The Caribbean-centric food business launched with a booth at Charlottesville City Market in 2014, before moving into the Jefferson School City Center two years later. Sober Pierre, owner and operator of Pearl Island Foods, and Executive Chef Javier Figueroa-Ray operate a small café and catering company, and before the pandemic hit, things were going well.

“The pandemic significantly reduced our catering business, which was the majority of our business,” says Pierre. This meant they had to redirect their efforts toward the café. “The operating constraints required to safely operate amidst COVID-19 has unintentionally forced our café to become a more integral part of our revenue stream.”

The reframing of Pearl Island’s business also required some construction that seemed likely to debilitate the restaurant’s financials. But when the folks at Building Goodness Foundation’s C’ville Builds heard about Pearl Island’s plight, they stepped in.

“We work a lot in the Caribbean in Haiti, and this is the type of food culture we promote, so this circles back because this is the type of project we do internationally,” says Sophie Parson, Building Goodness Foundation’s development and communications manager. “We’re focusing on small businesses and Pearl Island has nine employees. …This is the type of food Pierre and his team are trying to raise cultural awareness of in the community, so it was easy for us to jump on.”

The project will come in two phases, Parson says. The first, which should be completed by the end of the year, will organize the kitchen and storage unit to make it more efficient, since delivery involves storing a large volume of packaging supplies, which take up considerable space.

Pierre says phase two will help to allow food service in the outdoor space at the Jefferson School, with a goal of using this new area to cope with COVID in the present, while keeping the future of the entire building in mind.

“The redesigned outdoor patio is geared more towards post-COVID dining activity,” says Pierre. “However, we are looking forward to creating an outdoor space that is inviting for our customers and for people who haven’t been to Jefferson School City Center, the ‘soul of the city.’ This historically black segregated school is a national landmark that serves as a community center with several nonprofits housed within it. We are happy to serve the community alongside them.”

In addition, Parson says the new area will help extend the outdoor Downtown Mall a bit further. “It makes the Jefferson School that much more attractive, and brings people to the space, so you can, say, drop your kid at the YMCA daycare and have a drink and eat at Pearl Island.”

Categories
Culture Living

One season at a time: Caromont Farm keeps looking toward the future

Running a goat farm and making cheese is always a balancing act, even in the best of times. This year, Caromont Farm found that act especially tricky.

From early March through May, thousands of people flock to the pastoral locale in southern Albemarle County to cozy up to baby goats. The sessions have been crucial to the working farm’s business model, providing support during a time of year that is typically slow.

Right as snuggle season was beginning, stay-at-home orders due to COVID-19 caused Caromont Farm to close its gates and cancel goat cuddling. “The bottom fell out. We were in crisis mode,” says the farm’s owner and cheesemaker Gail Hobbs Page. “It was a financial strain, but we were able to keep our wits about us and keep the farm going as we figured out what we were going to do next.”

Some unexpected downtime gave way to inventive ideas, like Caromont’s new Farmstead cheese share. “It’s something we have wanted to do for a long time, but COVID made it happen,” Hobbs Page says. Each month, subscribers receive a selection of three cheeses and locally sourced fixings to make a deluxe cheese board. A share might include homemade mustard, locally made pickles, smoked trout, and artisan crackers. A subscription extends a supportive hand to Caromont Farm and other local farmers and food suppliers, like Little Hat Creek Farm and Good Phyte Foods. “The food going into these shares is from the people who make it,” she says. “You start having a really personal relationship, and that’s better than store-bought.”

The farm has also started selling directly to customers through in-person, minimal-contact pickup on Fridays and Saturdays, plus providing opportunities to order via the Local Food Hub and Charlottesville City Market. Hobbs Page is grateful not only for the opportunity to sell through local markets but to buy from them as well. “They got us through a very scary time when you didn’t know where you were going to get pork or chicken. The grocery stores were out,” she says. “If things ever go back to normal, let’s not forget that. We don’t need 18-wheelers to get our food. You can have it within hours of it being made. I think that’s a hopeful thing.”

In addition, Caromont Farm’s gates are open again. “It took some time,” Hobbs Page says, “but we’ve tried to rethink the idea, keeping us safe, keeping the animals safe, and keeping the community safe.” Reservations are available for socially distant visits in which visitors can walk the grounds, bring a picnic, and spend time with friendly, not-so-baby goats.   

While the year has been full of pivots on the business side, the seasonal nature of farming remains. As Hobbs Page says, “The goats don’t know it’s COVID.” Kidding season begins each February, which is described as one of the happiest times on the farm—but also one of the busiest. With the arrival of baby goats, the very small Caromont staff has its hands full during 12 weeks of bottle feedings.

From March through November, there are twice-daily milking sessions for the approximately 80 adult female goats. Keeping the goats healthy is a top priority. “Your milk is only as good as the health of your animals, and your cheese is only as good as your milk,” says Hobbs Page. The goats begin producing milk around age 2, and they are part of the lactation program for seven or eight cycles before entering retirement. “I get a tremendous amount of joy with my ‘Caromont Gals,’” she says. “I’m milking the granddaughters of some of my original herd. That is satisfying.”

Caromont Farm has been making cheese since 2007, but the process continues to evolve. “In the cheese world, you’re only as good as your last make,” says Hobbs Page.

Each year, Caromont produces about 20,000 pounds of cheese, including chevre, feta, caciotta, and bleu cheese that are made based on the different characteristics of each breed’s milk.

The farm’s multiple breeds of dairy goats include Saanen, Nubian, Alpine, and LaMancha. Saanens produce a lot of milk, sometimes yielding up to two gallons per day from one goat, but the fat content is low. Nubians, on the other hand, provide very little milk, but it’s high in fat. “Fat, protein, and calcium are the trinity of cheesemakers,” Hobbs Page says. “I’m trying to design milk that is abundant but also rich in components to give our cheeses a lot of flavor.”

As breeding season begins, Caromont Farm prepares for its next cycle, keeping a watchful eye on the future. “The most important thing is to stay ahead of your next season, thinking about the next babies and the next cheese,” she says. “It keeps you moving forward.” The farm hopes to be able to host modified snuggle sessions by March of 2021. By then, cheese that is in the works now will be ready to sell. “Farmers have to be optimistic,” says Hobbs Page, “always thinking the next season will be better.”

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Culture

Pick: Charlottesville City Market

Market upswing: Typically at this time of year we’d be emerging from our winter respite, and strolling with reusable grocery bags in hand to the Charlottesville City Market to sample food and stock up on fresh greens, sustainably raised meats, and plant starts for home gardens. While that may be out of reach for now, a new drive-through market, City Market To-Go, means we can still get ahold of locally produced staples, plus indulgences like Planet Earth Diversified’s milk thistle pesto, Caromont Farm’s truffled chevre, and Carpe Diem donuts. Order online by Thursday at 10am.

Saturdays, Pen Park, 1400 Pen Park Rd.,  970-3371. charlottesvillecitymarket.luluslocalfood.com.

 

Categories
Living

In the market: Fresh options abound from area vendors

From shumei-raised produce at Stonefield, to Piedmont Master Gardeners’ advice in Crozet, this round-up of farmers market finds includes insider tips for everyone.

Green Market at Stonefield

2100 Hydraulic Rd.
531-9646

With about a dozen local vendors per week, the Green Market at Stonefield has high-end, healthy produce, meats, bath products and more to suit a variety of tastes.

The details: Open Thursdays from 4-7pm and Saturdays from 8:30am to 12:30pm, May through October.

Pro tip: Looking for hyperlocal? Family Ties & Pies bakes its goodies about a quarter mile from the market.

Don’t miss: Anything from Legacy Farm; the owners farm their crops using shumei, a spiritual-based Japanese technique of growing and eating food.

Charlottesville City Market

100 Water St. E.
970-3371

The go-to market downtown has been around almost 45 years, and is packed with more than 100 vendors every Saturday. Want to compost, but have nowhere to put a pile? The market also has a compost and recycling program to keep C’ville green.

The details: Open Saturdays from 7am-noon, April through November.

Pro tip: The market’s downtown location draws a crowd, so get there early and stay awhile.

Don’t miss: Homemade, authentic Korean kimchi from new vendor Sussex Farms.

Farmers in the Park

300 Meade Ave.
970-3371

As a smaller cousin of the Charlottesville City Market, Farmers in Meade Park doesn’t skimp on its selection of homegrown eats.

The details: Open Wednesdays from 3-7pm, May through September.

Pro tip: The market has a niche selection of only food and produce, so if you’re looking for your next salad mix or local, ethically raised meats, this is the place.

Don’t miss: Bear Bottom Farm’s pork products, such as breakfast sausage or in-house smoked bacon.

Forest Lakes Farmers Market

1706-1710 Ashwood Blvd.
531-2733

Vendors new and old come out to the market to sell everything from fruits and veggies to wine and freshly squeezed lemonade. There’s a bi-weekly $10 coupon giveaway drawing, so you have a chance to save at the next market.

The details: Open Tuesdays from 4-7pm., April through October.

Pro tip: It’s located in the Forest Lakes South neighborhood and features typical farmers market fare.

Don’t miss: Mexican tacos; try the spicy chorizo, with both the corn tortilla and spicy meat made from scratch.

Albemarle Farmers Market

340 Towncenter Ln.
531-2733

This new market featuring 16 to 20 vendors each Saturday opened in May at Hollymead Town Center. Its diverse mix of artisans, farmers and freshly prepared foods will keep the summer bountiful.

The details: Open Saturdays from 8:30am-1pm, May through September.

Pro tip: There’s plenty of free parking, so no need to get there extra early to nab a spot.

Don’t miss: Liberty Mills Farm; not only is its produce noteworthy, but the farm is also home to the largest corn maze in Virginia.

Crozet Farmers Market

1156 Crozet Ave., Crozet
823-1092

Held in the parking lot of the Crozet United Methodist Church, this market also gives back to the community by donating vendor fees to the church’s food pantry.

The details: Open Saturdays from 8am-noon, May through mid-October.

Pro tip: Piedmont Master Gardeners volunteer every other Saturday, and answer questions about raising produce and dealing with pests.

Don’t miss: Everything needed for a backyard barbecue can be found at the market, from sweet corn to tomatoes and summer squash.

Earlysville Farmers Market

4133 Earlysville Rd.
942-8034

Get out of town at the Earlysville Farmers Market and peruse its selection of dedicated, diverse vendors. Look for eggs, honey and peaches this summer.

The details: Open Thursdays 4-7pm, April through November. Winter Market is open Saturdays 10am-2pm, November through March.

Pro tip: Cell service is spotty, so make sure you have plenty of cash on-hand because vendors can’t swipe your plastic.

Don’t miss: There are new vendors almost every week, so stop by brand-new stands for sweet and savory surprises.

Fluvanna Farmers Market at Pleasant Grove

1730 Thomas Jefferson Pkwy., Palmyra
591-1950

With a bright array of freshly cut flowers and picked produce, the Fluvanna Farmers Market does not skimp on pleasant offerings. Pleasant Grove is also on the National Historic Registry, so bring along a local history buff.

The details: Open Tuesdays 2-6pm; Saturdays 9am-1pm

Pro tip: Be sure that products are farm fresh; there’s no resale allowed at the market.

Don’t miss: Blueberry-infused honey from Mountain Dream Farm. Enough said.

Madison Farmers Market

1110 Fairground Rd., Madison, Virginia
948-6881

This community-oriented marketplace has the usual market fare, but also offers gardening classes, occasional live folk music and a special sampling of vendors’ products once a month. Stop by in August for a taste-test of local roasted sweet corn.

The details: Open Saturdays from 8am to noon May through October.

Pro tip: Beat the heat under the venue’s large oak trees and bring a blanket to join the conversation at this weekly community hangout.

Don’t miss: Homemade scones from Radiant Springs Farm, but get there early—they often sell out by 10 am.

Mineral Farmers Market

81 Louisa Ave., Mineral, Virginia
854-7626

Head to downtown Mineral to pick up your weekly veggies and then check out a selection of crafts. The market doesn’t skimp on fun—it occasionally holds pizza parties and cookouts. The Curbside Mini Market hosts vendors at the same location, selling produce, pies, jams, eggs and honey.

The details: Mini Market open Tuesdays from 5 to 7 pm June through August; regular market open Saturdays 8am to 1pm. 

Pro tip: You can bring your fur baby to the market; the entire space is dog-friendly with water bowls and room for plenty of playtime.

Don’t miss: Janey Gioiosa’s sweet and fresh fruit pies are fan favorites.

Nelson Farmers Market Cooperative

3079 Rockfish Valley Hwy., Nellysford
465-8004

It’s been 20 years since the Nelson Farmers Market was officially founded, but its core values remain the same in the hands of local farmers. The for-profit organization provides a safe, legal place to sell high-quality produce.  

The details: Open Saturdays 8am to noon, May through October, 

Pro tip: The market is under tents in Nellysford, so it’s open rain or shine (live music included).

Don’t miss: Check out Renaissance woman Katherine Herman at Gathered Threads. She sells everything from produce, teas and spice mixes, to natural skincare and fermented products such as kimchi and kraut.

Community Market at Rockfish Valley Community Center

190 Rockfish School Ln., Afton
361-1725

This market in Afton is non-traditional in that there are no hours during the summer months. But, beginning in November, stop in for live music, local produce, meats and plenty of crafts from local painters, potters and more.

The details: Open the first Saturdays of February, March, April, November and December, from 9am to noon.

Pro tip: Look forward to cozy pancake breakfasts during the market’s season.

Don’t miss: Internationally-acclaimed cheese from Caromont Farms, such as the Farmstead Chevre.