Categories
Culture Food & Drink

Farm-to-trunk

In the depths of the pandemic lock-down, independent and small-scale farmers suffered deeply as outlets for their goods scaled back or shut down entirely. There were reports of thousands of pounds of unsold produce rotting in fields while grocery store shelves remained empty, and tanks of perfectly drinkable milk being dumped down the drain.

Amidst the uncertainty, Local Food Hub, a nonprofit dedicated to increasing access to fresh, locally grown food, created a drive-through farmers market to safely reconnect growers to the community.

“Hey, wait a minute! We know all of these local farms,” says LFH Communications Director Portia Boggs about coming up with the idea. “We know this community. We can connect them.”

Since the spring of 2020, Local Food Hub operated the drive-through market on Wednesday and Friday to great success. One of the format’s strengths is its online, pre-ordering system. Shoppers know exactly what they’re getting and vendors know how much food to prepare, which cuts down on waste and allows people to place their orders while literally looking in their pantry.

“Farmers can guarantee that they will have what you want in advance,” says Boggs. “Since our market is pre-order only, there is zero waste for them, and that is something they really appreciate.”

Local Food Hub also covers all costs associated with running the market through a combination of grant and individual donations, allowing vendors to take home 100 percent of their sales. “It’s a really big deal for them,” says Boggs. “During COVID, I don’t think it’s an exaggeration to say that most of our vendors were dependent on the drive-through market to just be able to survive as a business. This market is living proof of the power of local food systems.”

For the winter season, LFH will be open only one day a week. However, there will be a special one-off Everything But The Bird market on Wednesday, November 24, to give shoppers an opportunity to buy farm-fresh goods for their Thanksgiving dinner. With almost 800 different items from 46 vendors, the food hub is putting everything on the table.

For the full shopping experience, go to localfoodhub.org/market Pre-orders can be placed online at localfoodhub.luluslocalfood.com, and pickup is from 4 to 5:30pm at Seminole Square Shopping Center on your selected day. Here is a short list of highlights that will make your turkey day especially tasty.

Room for pie and sides

Here is a short list of market highlights that will make your turkey day especially tasty.

Caromont Farm cheese
The popular goat-cuddle haven is offering a cheese-and-more assortment box with a selection of three seasonal cheeses, crackers, and homemade jam or honey.

Bellair Farm
Acorn and spaghetti squashes that can be easily adapted to any recipe or used to create something brand new are at the top of Bellair’s fall specialties list.

Phantom Hill Farm
Phantom Hill returns to the market with its signature microgreen blends, which can add color, flavor, and nutrition to almost any dish. Or, if you prefer to do some growing at home, the farm offers a grow-your-own shiitake mushroom log. Keep it in a damp, shady area of your yard and reap the delicious rewards for four or more years.

Gathered Thread
The market does not sell turkey, but the poultry marinade packet from Gathered Thread includes basil, garlic scapes, oregano, thyme, summer savory, sage, and rosemary, which make for a fragrant, flavorful bird (or plant-based protein if you wish).

The Pie Chest
Offload some of the T-day stress by outsourcing your baking this year. Go rogue at The Pie Chest, where the cider-glazed pumpkin cake is a gourd idea.

Categories
Culture Living

Fighting hunger: As food insecurity rises, local nonprofits step up their efforts

Food insecurity in Albemarle County is on the rise. Feeding America, a national hunger relief organization, reports that while 11.8 percent of Charlottesville’s population was food insecure in 2018, that number is expected to rise to 15.1 percent by the end of 2020. Accordingly, the Blue Ridge Area Food Bank told Richmond’s NBC12 in August that 12 percent of its June customers were new clients needing emergency food assistance for the first time.

There are a variety of local places supporting the projected three in every 20 Charlottesvillians who are unsure where they’ll find their next meal. The organizations’ donation needs have changed during the pandemic, and the holiday season is always a crucial time, so here’s how you can help.

Blue Ridge Food Bank

What it does: Ninety-seven percent of the Blue Ridge Area Food Bank’s pantries across Virginia have stayed open to provide groceries during the pandemic, thanks to safety restrictions including drive-through food pickups and pre-packaged meal boxes.

How to help: According to the BRAFB website, a one-dollar donation can fund four meals. Volunteer opportunities are also available for low-risk workers. brafb.org

Loaves & Fishes

What it does: Loaves & Fishes, the largest agency of the Blue Ridge Area Food Bank, supplies groceries twice a month for families who need extra assistance filling their pantry. It currently operates a drive-through grocery pickup where clients accept bags from masked volunteers without leaving their cars.

How to help: Limited volunteering opportunities are available. Monetary donations can be made on the website. Thanksgiving dishes (anything from canned yams to instant mashed potatoes to frozen turkeys) are in high demand, as are diapers. cvilleloaves.org

Meals on Wheels

What it does: Meals on Wheels of Charlottesville/Albemarle is a nonprofit that has delivered hot meals five days a week since 1977. The organization connects with the most isolated members of Charlottesville in the most isolating time of their lives, ensuring that secluded seniors are checked on daily.

How to help: Over 90 percent of the meals provided by Meals on Wheels are directly subsidized by monetary donations, which can be made on the website. Contact MoW directly if you’re interested in providing physical donations or volunteering to do anything from answering phones to driving delivery vans. For holiday gift baskets, the organization is looking for mugs, tea, cocoa, puzzle books, winter accessories, and toiletries. cvillemeals.org

The Haven

What it does: When Charlottesville residents find themselves without a home, The Haven works to make that situation “rare, brief, and nonrecurring.” In addition to providing temporary housing, the shelter helps unhoused families seek new residences to call home.

How to help: The Haven website lists what a financial donation would fund, from $47 (a day’s worth of showers) to $2,1000 (the move-in cost for a one-bedroom apartment). Volunteering is limited due to safety restrictions, but low-risk volunteers can apply. In addition to monetary contributions, The Haven is looking for donations of coffee, as well as volunteers to work breakfast shifts over the holidays. thehaven.org

Emergency Food Network

What it does: Customers in need can call the Emergency Food Network once a month to receive kits for three healthy meals. No financial proof of need is required. Meal bags include non-perishables like canned tuna and fresh items like bread and milk.

How to help: All volunteer slots are full, and due to COVID-19 restrictions, food donations can’t be accepted; financial contributions are preferred. According to the Emergency Food Network, small operating expenses mean that about 91 cents of every dollar is spent on food. emergencyfoodnetwork.org

Local Food Hub

What it does: Local Food Hub works to connect local farmers with extra food to local consumers without fresh food. ItsFresh Farmacy program provides those in need with biweekly installments of locally sourced fruits and vegetables.

How to help: Food is already provided by area farmers, so monetary donations are the way to go. Thirty dollars is enough to send a bag of locally grown produce to someone in need. localfoodhub.org

Cultivate Charlottesville

What it does: Cultivate Charlottesville has helped students build gardens at schools across the city. According to CC, gardens built through the program have involved over 2,000 volunteers and produced over 80,000 pounds of food as part of the Food Justice Network, a group of more than 35 organizations working not only to alleviate hunger in the short term, but to attack the problem at its roots.

How to help: Volunteers are needed for everything from planting, harvesting, and weed control to outreach and research. Those interested in the organizational aspects of food justice can intern in the Cultivate Charlottesville office. cultivatecharlottesville.org

Categories
Culture Living

One season at a time: Caromont Farm keeps looking toward the future

Running a goat farm and making cheese is always a balancing act, even in the best of times. This year, Caromont Farm found that act especially tricky.

From early March through May, thousands of people flock to the pastoral locale in southern Albemarle County to cozy up to baby goats. The sessions have been crucial to the working farm’s business model, providing support during a time of year that is typically slow.

Right as snuggle season was beginning, stay-at-home orders due to COVID-19 caused Caromont Farm to close its gates and cancel goat cuddling. “The bottom fell out. We were in crisis mode,” says the farm’s owner and cheesemaker Gail Hobbs Page. “It was a financial strain, but we were able to keep our wits about us and keep the farm going as we figured out what we were going to do next.”

Some unexpected downtime gave way to inventive ideas, like Caromont’s new Farmstead cheese share. “It’s something we have wanted to do for a long time, but COVID made it happen,” Hobbs Page says. Each month, subscribers receive a selection of three cheeses and locally sourced fixings to make a deluxe cheese board. A share might include homemade mustard, locally made pickles, smoked trout, and artisan crackers. A subscription extends a supportive hand to Caromont Farm and other local farmers and food suppliers, like Little Hat Creek Farm and Good Phyte Foods. “The food going into these shares is from the people who make it,” she says. “You start having a really personal relationship, and that’s better than store-bought.”

The farm has also started selling directly to customers through in-person, minimal-contact pickup on Fridays and Saturdays, plus providing opportunities to order via the Local Food Hub and Charlottesville City Market. Hobbs Page is grateful not only for the opportunity to sell through local markets but to buy from them as well. “They got us through a very scary time when you didn’t know where you were going to get pork or chicken. The grocery stores were out,” she says. “If things ever go back to normal, let’s not forget that. We don’t need 18-wheelers to get our food. You can have it within hours of it being made. I think that’s a hopeful thing.”

In addition, Caromont Farm’s gates are open again. “It took some time,” Hobbs Page says, “but we’ve tried to rethink the idea, keeping us safe, keeping the animals safe, and keeping the community safe.” Reservations are available for socially distant visits in which visitors can walk the grounds, bring a picnic, and spend time with friendly, not-so-baby goats.   

While the year has been full of pivots on the business side, the seasonal nature of farming remains. As Hobbs Page says, “The goats don’t know it’s COVID.” Kidding season begins each February, which is described as one of the happiest times on the farm—but also one of the busiest. With the arrival of baby goats, the very small Caromont staff has its hands full during 12 weeks of bottle feedings.

From March through November, there are twice-daily milking sessions for the approximately 80 adult female goats. Keeping the goats healthy is a top priority. “Your milk is only as good as the health of your animals, and your cheese is only as good as your milk,” says Hobbs Page. The goats begin producing milk around age 2, and they are part of the lactation program for seven or eight cycles before entering retirement. “I get a tremendous amount of joy with my ‘Caromont Gals,’” she says. “I’m milking the granddaughters of some of my original herd. That is satisfying.”

Caromont Farm has been making cheese since 2007, but the process continues to evolve. “In the cheese world, you’re only as good as your last make,” says Hobbs Page.

Each year, Caromont produces about 20,000 pounds of cheese, including chevre, feta, caciotta, and bleu cheese that are made based on the different characteristics of each breed’s milk.

The farm’s multiple breeds of dairy goats include Saanen, Nubian, Alpine, and LaMancha. Saanens produce a lot of milk, sometimes yielding up to two gallons per day from one goat, but the fat content is low. Nubians, on the other hand, provide very little milk, but it’s high in fat. “Fat, protein, and calcium are the trinity of cheesemakers,” Hobbs Page says. “I’m trying to design milk that is abundant but also rich in components to give our cheeses a lot of flavor.”

As breeding season begins, Caromont Farm prepares for its next cycle, keeping a watchful eye on the future. “The most important thing is to stay ahead of your next season, thinking about the next babies and the next cheese,” she says. “It keeps you moving forward.” The farm hopes to be able to host modified snuggle sessions by March of 2021. By then, cheese that is in the works now will be ready to sell. “Farmers have to be optimistic,” says Hobbs Page, “always thinking the next season will be better.”

Categories
Arts Culture

PICK: Food From Our Farms

Rewarding harvest: A salad of autumn lettuces and herbs, Asian pear, toasted pecans, and Surryano ham crisp with nectarine vinaigrette. Empanadas made from Caromont chevre, butternut squash, and heirloom apples. It’s harvest time in the Blue Ridge, and the menu for Food From Our Farms: 2020 Edition features the bounty of the season while honoring the Local Food Hub’s work with small family farms and the food community. Support LFH as you enjoy a delivered dinner prepared by APimento Catering and Caromont Farm, with desserts by Albemarle Baking Company, and wine options from local wineries. Orders due by 9/26.

Saturday 10/3. $100 suggested donation. localfoodhub.org/dinner

Categories
Coronavirus News

Here to help: Meet some of the people who are getting food to the hungry

In normal times, one in six Charlottesville residents—nearly 8,000 people—lack adequate access to affordable, healthy food. That’s 6 percent higher than the statewide food insecurity rate. And with thousands of citizens newly unemployed due to COVID-19, our food insecurity numbers have significantly increased, exacerbating underlying disparities.

Dozens of area nonprofits have been working for years to fight this complex, systemic issue, which disproportionately affects people of color, and when the coronavirus left many more residents in need of food assistance, these groups redoubled their efforts. What follows is a glimpse of a few of the local individuals and organizations that are feeding their friends and neighbors in need.

PB&J Fund

When COVID-19 shut down city schools, many students were at risk of going hungry because they’d lost access to their free (or reduced-price) breakfasts and lunches. The PB&J Fund, which teaches students how to make healthy, affordable recipes at home with their families, stepped in immediately, organizing volunteers to pack and hand out bag lunches on March 15.

The following day, city schools began distributing grab-and-go meals—but only on weekdays. To feed children on the weekends, the PB&J Fund set up a delivery program, dropping off bags of groceries on the doorsteps of more than 300 families every Friday.

“They are primarily shelf-stable items, with a little bit of fresh produce,” mainly from locally owned grocery stores, food banks, and farmers, says the fund’s Executive Director Alex London-Gross. “We want to ensure that people have options.”

While programs like this have been necessary in Charlottesville “for years and years,” says London-Gross, they are especially crucial now. With household staples flying off the shelves, it has been difficult for low-income families to get to stores in time to purchase all they need, often due to their work schedules. Charlottesville Area Transit’s reduced schedules have made shopping even tougher for those without access to a car.

“We have kids [waiting] at the front door who know what time their bag is going to be delivered,” says London-Gross. “They’re so appreciative.”

The PB&J Fund will continue to deliver groceries through the end of August, but plans after that are up in the air, says London-Gross. If city schools reopen (in some capacity), it may pivot to assist other community organizations with their food relief needs. It may also begin teaching cooking classes again, but in a virtual format.

We are really looking forward to “getting back to the educational piece of our work,” says London-Gross.

Keevil & Keevil Grocery and Kitchen

When local chef Harrison Keevil had to close down his family’s store, Keevil & Keevil Grocery and Kitchen, back in March, he immediately thought of his Belmont neighbors. What if they lost their jobs? How were they going to eat?

Right away, he began leaving 15 free lunches every day in front of the eatery for anyone who was hungry, no questions asked. But he wanted to do more.

By April, Keevil had forged partnerships with multiple area organizations that serve vulnerable populations—including PACEM, Habitat for Humanity of Greater Charlottesville, The Arc of the Piedmont, and The Haven—to provide freshly prepared meals, using ingredients purchased directly from local farmers.

And over the past few weeks, Keevil’s hunger relief program—called #FeedVirginia—has expanded its partnerships into rural areas like Goochland, Keevil’s hometown.

Chef Harrison Keevil has distributed about 24,000 meals through his #FeedVirginia program. PC: John Robinson

“We work with our partners to determine how many meals they would like, and either we or volunteers deliver it, or someone comes to pick it up from that group” every Tuesday through Thursday, says Keevil. “And Tuesday through Friday, we’re still putting out free meals in front of the shop.”

One-hundred percent of profits from Keevil & Keevil’s regular food and catering sales go toward funding the program, in addition to GoFundMe donations. While this new business model hasn’t been easy to adopt, says Keevil, the store has been able to stay self-sufficient, and currently has enough funds to get through the next few months.

“This has been one of the hardest things I’ve ever done professionally, but it’s also been the most rewarding,” he says. Before starting #FeedVirginia, “I hadn’t realized how lost I truly was. It has definitely reset me, and opened my eyes to why I love cooking and why I got into it in the first place—to take care of people [and] put smiles on people’s faces.”

The program has distributed about 24,000 meals to date—and has no plans of stopping anytime soon. “We will do whatever we can to keep this going [and] make sure we’re always there, especially for the Belmont community,” Keevil says. “We are here to stay.”

Local Food Hub

As soon as the University of Virginia shut its doors in mid-March, Portia Boggs, communications director for the Local Food Hub, knew that things were about to get “really bad” for area farmers, who rely heavily on wholesale sales to schools, restaurants, and other institutions.

Her worst fears were soon confirmed: Following closures all over the city and surrounding counties, farmers reported a more than 90 percent drop in sales. They weren’t sure how, or if, they were going to make it through the pandemic.

At the same time, “grocery store shelves were empty, and people were freaking out about whether or not they would be able to get enough to eat,” says Boggs.

To both help farmers and meet consumer demand, the Local Food Hub created a drive-thru market, held every Wednesday and Friday in the former Kmart parking lot on Hydraulic Road.

The Local Food Hub hosts drive-thru markets twice a week in the former Kmart parking lot on Hydraulic Road. PC: Supplied photo

Because customers place their orders online, “there’s absolutely no contact between anyone,” says Boggs. They just have to show up at their designated pick-up time and put a sign with their name in their front car window, and employees will put their order in their trunk.

The model has been very successful, bringing in hundreds of thousands dollars in sales to date for its 20 vendors. More drive-thru markets have since popped up around town.

“We’ve been completely blown away by the support from the community,” says Boggs. “So many of our vendors tell us that we either played a huge role in or were responsible for keeping them in business, and making it possible for them to survive.”

To further help families facing economic hardship, Local Food Hub expanded its preexisting food relief program, Fresh Farmacy, which currently provides locally grown produce to 600 low-income families every week.

While there is no set end date for either of the programs, Boggs hopes that “once things normalize a little bit more, people will remember the benefits of local food systems, [as well as] everyone having access to equitable food,” she says. We need to “continue to invest in that and prioritize that as a long-term solution, and not just an emergency response.”

Cultivate Charlottesville

For years, the Food Justice Network, City Schoolyard Garden, and the Urban Agriculture Collective have fought together to create a healthy and equitable food system in Charlottesville. To better achieve their mission and amplify their impact, the three organizations decided in April to come together as one: Cultivate Charlottesville.

Since the start of the pandemic, each of Cultivate Charlottesville’s programs has been working to provide emergency food security response, tapping into partnerships to expand current initiatives and create new ones, thanks to “a huge swell in interest and support not only from donors but individuals,” says Cultivate Charlottesville’s Executive Director Jeanette Abi-Nader.

Every week, the Urban Agriculture Collective, which works with public housing residents to grow fresh food, has hosted a free community market for families in need, distributing produce from its Sixth Street farm.

In collaboration with nonprofits Charlottesville Frontline Foods and Charlottesville Community Cares, the Food Justice Network has given out freshly prepared meals from local restaurants—particularly those run by people of color—to public and subsidized housing residents, as part of its efforts toward racial equity.

Food Justice Network associate Gabby Levet believes the pandemic has strengthened Cultivate Charlottesville’s partnerships, helping it to better respond to future community issues. PC: Marley Nichelle

During Charlottesville City Schools’ spring break, volunteers from City Schoolyard Garden and the Chris Long Foundation teamed up to deliver 4,000 meals from Pearl Island Catering and Mochiko Cville to students living in neighborhoods with high enrollments in the free and reduced-price meal program.

And as a collective, Cultivate Charlottesville has partnered with the local health department, plus other community organizations, to sponsor free COVID-19 testing in Black and Latino communities, which have been disproportionately impacted by the virus. It’s also worked to provide wraparound services, including groceries, medication, cleaning products, and PPE.

“Working with so many people across sectors and coming up with solutions in short spans of time…unlocks so much potential moving forward to respond to other community needs and broader issues that arise,” adds Charlottesville Food Justice Network associate Gabby Levet. “Those relationships will not be lost.”

However, these relief programs, among others, aren’t intended to become the “norm” for achieving food equity, says Abi-Nader. “We still want to develop principles and practices to build towards that longer-term food security,” she says, such as by securing more land for urban gardens. We want this to be “a part of what the community sees as necessary for being a healthy and better Charlottesville.”

Blue Ridge Area Food Bank

At the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic, the Blue Ridge Area Food Bank—which provides food assistance to 25 counties and eight cities in central and western Virginia—was faced with a big challenge. With thousands of residents out of a job, a lot more food needed to be distributed to its community partners, including food pantries, soup kitchens, and shelters. But BRAFB had a drastic reduction in volunteers, and needed to limit the amount of people allowed to work during a shift to 10.

Fortunately, it immediately received “a historic outpouring of support,” says Community Relations Manager Abena Foreman-Trice, “allowing us to spend more than $2.7 million in response to the crisis, with nearly all of that going toward food purchases.” When the food bank put out a call for healthy, low-risk volunteers, around 700 people signed up to give out food to their neighbors in need.

A volunteer from the Blue Ridge Area Food Bank hands out bags filled with household staples. PC: Supplied photo

Thanks to this substantial backing from the community, BRAFB has been able to keep nearly all of its partner food pantries open. Using low and no-touch food distribution practices, like curbside pickup and home deliveries, it has safely served 15 percent more people than it did at this time in 2019—roughly 115,000 in May alone, according to its latest stats.

In collaboration with community partners, BRAFB has increased its outreach efforts to vulnerable populations. With the help of volunteers from the Jefferson Area Board for Aging, it has distributed and delivered food boxes to senior citizens in need in Charlottesville and surrounding counties.

“We can’t predict when things will go back to the way they were before COVID-19….our response to the pandemic could go on for many more months,” says Foreman-Trice. Nonetheless, “we can remain ready to help individuals and families when they need us.”

Categories
Culture

Support system: Restaurants and agribusinesses share resources

The tradition of neighbors helping neighbors has taken on new meaning during the time of coronavirus, pushing many of us to become creative in figuring out ways to help each other. There’s no better example of this than in the Charlottesville-area food community, where business as usual came to a screeching halt two months ago. To combat that, many food professionals turned to collaborations to help get their products to customers in a safe and efficient manner.

Responding early was the Local Food Hub, a nonprofit that partners with Virginia farmers to increase community access to local food by providing support services, infrastructure, and market opportunities. With farmers’ markets unable to open, LFH scrambled to launch two alternative low-contact markets.

“We developed the drive-through markets when we saw the traditional sales outlets our farmers rely on drying up,” says Portia Boggs, the Hub’s director of advancement and communications. “The old infrastructure that connected the two was just no longer functioning. Our markets are great for people who have the capacity [income, car, and time].”

For people who don’t? “Our Fresh Farmacy program is catered to those who don’t have those resources—for example, the homebound, elderly, unemployed, and low-food-access,” says Boggs. “This program provides 400-plus weekly shares of locally sourced products, either via home delivery or a centralized, accessible drop point.”

Wilfred Henry of Mount Alto Sungrown in Esmont recognized that his neighbors needed to get their products out, and organized a contact-free delivery of goods to Charlottesville and Albemarle and Nelson counties, including farmers’ market favorites such as cheeses from Caromont Farm, pork and lamb from Double H Farm to soaps and lotions from Grubby Girl, and Henry’s own full-spectrum hemp and CBD products.  

“The idea evolved naturally out of my friendship with each of these people,” he says. “We’re neighbors. This is our community. Working together and helping hold each other up is what we do.”  

Kristen Rabourdin hadn’t even signed the paperwork to purchase the Batesville Market when everything shut down. A volunteer with the Community Investment Collaborative, she’d planned to showcase local products. “We had anticipated the market being a local music venue [on weekends], and didn’t anticipate having to shift so quickly, but this pushed us…to be this great little country store for people to get their basics without having to go to a large grocery store,” Rabourdin says.

She’s already sourcing locally produced naan and samosas to sell in her market, and she enlisted area baker Maria Niechwiadowicz—herself about to open a bricks-and-mortar location for Bowerbird Bakeshop when everything shut down—to provide macarons.

When she heard that a nearby cannery had closed, Rabourdin applied to get her commercial kitchen approved for use by area purveyors such as Yvonne Cunningham, of Nona’s Italian Cucina tomato sauce, who hopes to shift her sauce production to the Batesville kitchen.  

Keevil & Keevil Grocery and Kitchen answered the call to provide food for those in need by offering free meals daily for anyone who wants them, and in another response to food insecurity, Pearl Island Café went from providing snacks at the Boys & Girls Club, to getting 400 meals (such as BBQ chicken, rice and beans, fruits and vegetables) per week into the hands of club and community members, an effort privately funded by Diane and Howie Long.

Whitney Matthews, proprietor of Spice Sea Gourmet food truck, was surprised when a friend from culinary school donated money to help her prepare meals for frontline workers. After contacting more alums, she’s been able to prepare 160 meals to date.

“I’ve [also] been reaching out to other female-owned businesses to help with things like desserts,” she says, such as Cocoa & Spice’s Jennifer Mowad, who’s prepared brownies. Maliha Creations’ Anita Gupta, who crafts boutique wedding cakes, donated other desserts; Kathryn Matthews of Iron Paffles & Coffee donated softshell crabs; and Cunningham contributed her sauce and time, preparing food and delivering it. In addition, Matthews has been collecting donations of food and supplies for immigrant families in need. 

Jessica Hogan and her husband Gabino Lino of Farmacy Food Truck joined the list of locals who are working with chef José Andrés’ World Central Kitchen to feed frontline workers, preparing 300 meals a week for area police departments. Fellini’s Chris Humphrey, who is also contributing to WCK, has been providing two meals a week to his restaurant’s furloughed staff, and is selling frozen meat from local farmers through Foods for Thought.

Junction Executive Chef Melissa Close-Hart says her place and The Local have contributed over 500 meals to various community members, including frontline workers, while also providing one meal a day to the restaurants’ staff. 

While the virus’ grip on the ability to operate as usual remains tight, local restaurants and food workers—including too many others to list here—have looked within their community to help where it is most needed, and to maintain each other’s businesses. Henry says the key to carrying on is staying loyal to the food and product sources that are closest to home. “We’re all committed to the sustainability of the local economy, and together we’re working to not only keep each other afloat but also expand access to and knowledge about all the great products we have on offer right here,” he says.

Categories
Culture

Food web: Local farms find new ways to connect with customers

At this point in the season, farmers have planted potatoes and strawberries. They’ve sown radishes, carrots, beets, and kohlrabi. They’ve transplanted broccoli and onions from interior pots to outdoor beds, and any day now, they’ll put  in the warmer-weather crops like corn and peppers. 

But as the COVID-19 pandemic spreads throughout Virginia, Governor Ralph Northam’s stay-at-home order has shut down farmers’ markets and restaurants, and local farmers have had to rethink how to get food to their customers…and how to maintain their income to ensure there’s a harvest next year.

“At this time of year, we have a lot invested in the ground and not a lot of cash on hand,” says Jim Marzluff of Sweet Greens Farm in Scottsville. “Those first few markets are really important to us.” 

More than half of Sweet Greens’ revenue comes from local farmers’ markets. “It’s such a good way to sell produce in this area,” says Marzluff. 

That number’s even higher—95 percent—for Whisper Hill Farm, also in Scottsville. “We’re going to have tons of produce,” says farmer Holly Hammond.

Hammond and Marzluff plan to put what they’d normally sell at the market into community supported agriculture shares. Both farms had moved away from the CSA model in recent years, but right now, it seems like the best option to feed customers and financially sustain the farms.

Though they understand the dire importance of practicing social distancing, farmers, who already adhere to very strict food safety standards, are frustrated by the new rules. Lee O’Neill of Radical Roots Farm says that markets could likely observe even stricter measures than grocery stores—limiting how many people are in the space at once, allowing only farmers to touch the goods—and so she wonders why the markets are not also considered essential.

To help fill the gap, Local Food Hub is offering a drive-up, no-contact micro-market. Customers can go to the organization’s website to order locally produced fruits and veggies, milk, eggs, cheese, meats, and more. At the pickup location, LFH employees and farmers place the bagged order in the customer’s trunk.

And starting Saturday, April 11, the City Market will switch to a “City Market To-Go” model, operating from 8am to noon on Saturdays until further notice. Customers can sign up for an account, place an order online, and choose a 30-minute pickup window. During that time, they’ll be able to pick up their bag from Pen Park.

Farmers say there’s also been increased interest in CSA programs from customers over the past two weeks, particularly from those who are anxious that there might eventually be a food shortage.

Bellair Farm, located just outside of Charlottesville, is perhaps unique in that its business model is based almost entirely around a CSA program, which farm manager Michelle McKenzie says could provide enough produce for 700 families for its 22-week duration. (A half share, enough for the average-size family, costs $390 for the season, about $17 per week.) While Bellair won’t have to adapt its business much, it will stop its market-style CSA pickup and switch to pre-packaged bags that customers can retrieve quickly.

Radical Roots will also offer a few CSA shares this year to make up for its lost market business, and it’s participating in Local Food Hub’s micro-market, but O’Neill expects her farm’s “saving grace” will be its wholesale business with area groceries like Feast!, Integral Yoga, and Whole Foods. There’s no guarantee, though, that customers on tight pandemic budgets will opt for the slightly more expensive, locally grown organic tomato, rather than the cheaper, corporate farm-grown one. “Usually we can’t produce enough” for the stores, says O’Neill, but she imagines this year could be different. 

Since fall 2019, when this photo was taken, the Urban Agriculture Collective of Charlottesville, which grows and distributes produce to public and subsidized housing communities, has lost more than 80 percent of its planting-bed space. Photo by Zack Wajsgras

While most area farms work out how to distribute their bounties, one farm located in the heart of Charlottesville worries it won’t have enough food for its consumers’ needs.

The Urban Agriculture Collective of Charlottesville offers city residents the opportunity to collaboratively grow and harvest organic produce that is then distributed at no cost to public and subsidized housing communities, “people who might not otherwise have access to fresh produce,” says Richard Morris, farm and foodroots program director at UACC.

During the 2019 season, UACC’s three gardens, located at the Friendship Court, South First Street, and Sixth Street housing developments, had a combined 25,000 square feet of vegetable-bed space. But with the Friendship Court and South First Street spots slated for redevelopment, UACC was only able to plant at Sixth Street—4,400 square feet of bed space—for the 2020 season.

“We’re down, but not out,” says Morris. With less than one-fifth of its previous planting area to work with, he says they’ve employed some intensive growing techniques, such as vertical planting.

As unemployment rates soar, Morris expects that those members of our community who are already food insecure (about 17 percent of the city’s population) will have greater demand for produce…and that more of our neighbors will become food insecure in the coming months.

He hopes that other, larger farms and distributors with excess produce might donate it to the UACC’s new Harvest a Bushel for the Community program.

Overall, farmers say they want this moment to help the community understand the reliability, and thus the importance, of local food. It’s part of their mission, after all, to feed their neighbors.

“For me, having this very clear, outlined mission of what my role is in this crisis has brought me more peace than anything else in this time,” says McKenzie. “Knowing that I’ve got a job to do, and my job is to grow food, safely. That’s what I keep returning to.”


Dining decline

Farms that supply to area restaurants, and not just individual customers, face enormous challenges, too. As restaurants have either closed completely or switched to carry-out and delivery models, they’re not cooking as much, which means placing fewer, if any, orders with small farms.

Around half of Free Union Grass Farm’s business comes from local restaurants. This year, farmer Joel Slezak planned to raise 2,500 ducks and sell 90 percent of them to local restaurants. But a few weeks ago, orders from restaurants “disappeared overnight,” and Slezak canceled his duckling order. Instead, he’ll raise chickens and laying hens, whose meat and eggs, respectively, are easier to sell to home cooks via the farm’s website. Slezak says he’s had increased interest from individual customers, and despite the loss of his restaurant clientele, business is booming. He does worry that at some point, individual customers will run out of money and not be able to afford local food prices, which tend to be higher than those at grocery stores.

Ara Avagyan of Double H Farm has some worries, too. From December through May, his farm relies entirely on restaurants for its income. “That’s just enough” for the Avagyan family to pay the bills and keep the lights on. He continues providing to restaurants throughout the spring, summer, and fall, but he relies on farmers market sales of leafy greens, eggs, pork, and more, for the money to feed his livestock: dozens of cows, hundreds of pigs and chickens. Double H has pivoted to direct-to-customer sales through its website, and is selling to small groceries like Integral Yoga, but Avagyan says only time will tell if that model will be successful.


This article was updated Wednesday, April 8 to include information about the City Market To-Go, announced April 7.

Categories
C-BIZ

#selfcare. Corporate America-style

You see it splashed across social media— #selfcare. It’s one of the hottest buzzwords in wellness. (The hashtag appears more than 21 million times on Instagram.) Hashtags for #corporatewellness or #workplacewellness aren’t as sexy, but don’t let that mislead you. Corporate America has been in the self-care game for years.

Whatever moniker you want to apply to the concept, workplace wellness is defined as the company-sponsored practices that support and aim to improve overall employee health. Most employees spend at least a third of their life at work (or more than 90,000 hours, according to the book Happiness at Work), so it makes sense that many businesses and organizations are seeking ways to create a culture of health—both mental and physical—for workers.

Examples of workplace wellness programs include nutrition counseling, stress management resources, smoking cessation, health fairs, preventative screenings, workout challenges, walking clubs, on-site gyms, and employee assistance programs. It can even include offerings like in-office yoga classes, healthy snack and lunch options, nap rooms (Ben & Jerry’s, Zappos, and Nike have snooze-friendly on-site rooms and policies, according to the National Sleep Foundation), well-being days, dog-friendly workplaces, and office vegetable gardens.

Improved worker productivity, reduced absenteeism and “presenteeism” (when a worker is there, but not really there because they don’t feel well and are thus unproductive), morale boosts, higher employee engagement, a more connected work culture, decreased health care costs, and of course, healthier employees, are among the hoped-for outcomes of workplace wellness programs, as is, ultimately, an improved bottom line.

A wealth of research backs up the purported benefits of such programs, as well as their prevalence in the workplace. According to a “2017 Employee Benefits” report from the Society of Human Resource Management, roughly one-third of organizations surveyed “increased their overall benefits offerings in the last 12 months, with health (22 percent) and wellness (24 percent) benefits being the most likely ones to experience growth.” The main reason for increasing work wellness benefits (or benefits overall) per that SHRM report? To attract and retain top talent.

Another 2017 report, from Aflac, found that “employees who participated in wellness programs offered at their workplaces had higher levels of job satisfaction.” And a majority of millennials—the largest generation of workers in the U.S. labor force, according to the Pew Research Center— say they value workplace wellness. Nearly six in 10 say both “work-life balance and well-being in a job are ‘very important’ to them,” per Gallup.

C’ville area organizations are no stranger to workplace wellness, with some setting the bar when it comes to developing opportunities for employees to live their best, healthiest work-life.

Crutchfield’s holistic approach to workplace wellness

Photo: Martyn Kyle

Creating a “safe, comfortable and challenging” work environment is a top priority for Crutchfield Corporation, says Chris Lilley, chief human resource officer, as is one that supports wellness.

“We look at wellness holistically and include mental, physical, emotional, and financial health in our approach,” Lilley explains.

The consumer electronics retailer— which employs 615 people at locations in Charlottesville, Harrisonburg, and Wise County—offers such workplace wellness benefits as fitness event registration and Weight Watchers membership fee reimbursements, gym membership discounts at ACAC, Brooks Family YMCA, and UVA Wise Gym, seasonal wellness challenges, free annual flu shots, and standing desk or ball chair options, to name a few.

According to a 2017 study in the International Journal of Environmental Research and Public Health, dog-friendly workplaces have been shown to reduce rates of absenteeism and boost worker morale and productivity. Crutchfield—like many other companies such as Amazon, BISSELL, and Etsy— is on board with that policy, with dog-friendly workspaces at its Charlottesville headquarters and its southwest Virginia and Charlottesville contact centers.

“We have installed and actively maintain wooded walking trails on our headquarters property, where we also have a fenced dog run to support our employees who choose to take advantage of our ‘Dog Pawlicy,’ which allows them to bring their dog to work,” adds Lilley.

Employees can also take advantage of Crutchfield’s employee assistance program—EAPs are typically designed to help individuals with personal and work-related concerns, including mental, health, emotional, financial, legal, and other issues that could impact job performance. EAPs, in general, are employer-paid, and offer confidential access to a range of programs and services like eldercare support, health coaching, marital counseling, and substance abuse treatment.

In addition, the company offers a voluntary “Live Longer, Live Better” wellness program, created in consultation with the University of Virginia’s Medical Center, which further incentivizes and rewards good health. When employees visit their primary care physician for a physical exam, “depending on the level of wellness achieved as determined by the employee and the physician, the employee will receive a monetary award,” says Lilley.

Lilley adds that for Crutchfield, workplace wellness has been integral to creating an engaged, high-performing workforce—so much so, the company plans to add to its menu of wellness initiatives and partnerships, including mental health, to further develop its culture of wellness.

“Eliminating real and perceived stigma and disparate treatment for those dealing with mental health is an important step in that process,” Lilley says, adding that overall, efforts like these “are known to support a reduction in absenteeism, presenteeism, apathy, and loneliness which all deteriorate the employee experience in corporate America today.”

CCRi customizes workplace wellness

Photo: Amy and Jackson Smith

Commonwealth Computer Research, Inc., a C’ville-based data science and software engineering company with almost 145 employees, has created a collegial work atmosphere where on-site grilling, food truck days, and movie and board game nights with co-workers are routine–activities that set the tone for the company’s approach to workplace wellness.

Other fun wellness perks: A communal massage chair, which is “in our library area, so you can go close the door and turn the light off and get a little relaxation time,” says Julia Farill, CCRi human resources and recruiting manager.

Access to a wooded park with walking trails also gives employees a break when they need it. “That’s been great for wellness as well, especially for the folks here whose job requires really intense thinking and they’re working on the computer and staring at the screen. Being able to get out and walk around on the trail is huge,” she says.

Customizing workplace wellness as much as possible, and creating an environment where employees are listened to and heard works best for a growing company like theirs, Farill adds, because employee wants and needs are constantly evolving and changing over time.

“I like to try to understand that before we make corporate decisions about where we’re going to invest,” says Farill, “Because I think that it’s really crucial to take a look at who’s here, what they care about, what matters to them, and then allocate resources towards those things based off of what their interests are.”

If CCRi’s employees are into biking as a health and wellness activity–like they are right now, for example–Farill says she tries to figure out how the company can support that even more.

“We have an area set up to be able to work on your bike, so if you ride in as a commuter you can bring your bike in,” she says. “And we have an indoor bike parking area and a little table set up that has a bunch of bike tools so you can work on it. We also have a couple of loaner bikes if people wanted to go out for lunch or something like that.”

Gym and yoga discounts with places like ACAC, FlyDog Yoga, and Formula Complete Fitness are also standard, but because wellness is different for everyone, Farill will make sure she explores other employee interests. “I’ll ask them: ‘Hey, if you have a different interest—if you have a different type of gym or place you work out and you want us to try and contact them to see if they are interested in setting up a corporate partnership, then I’m happy to reach out.”

Farill says the company offers not one but two employee assistance programs. “Those programs are great because they are kind of a one-stop-shop for employees if you are dealing with something that’s going on in your life,” she says.

“The idea is that everybody at some moment in their life has something come up that’s hard to navigate, whether your child care fell through, you have a parent that needs more support, or you’re dealing with a financial issue, you have to do a trust or will or something,” she says. “So the idea of the employee assistance program is that you can just go there and say, ‘This is my issue, and what resources exist?’”

Having a customized workplace wellness program at CCRi is important, Farill says, because ”our people are absolutely the most important thing about our company.”

Supporting wellness in the workplace—whatever that looks like—is in “everybody’s best interest” and is critical to creating an environment where employees can flourish, she adds.

“As a company, trying to individually understand what matters to our people right now, and how is that changing and shifting, and what are we doing as a company to help people not just feel that they’re supported and appreciated, but understand that they really are—this is a big deal to us,” she says.

Charlottesville City Schools gives a boost to teacher and staff wellness

Public school employees have rewarding–but stressful–jobs. A 2017 issue brief from Pennsylvania State University and the Robert Wood Johnson Foundation reported that soaring stress levels “are affecting teacher health and well-being, causing teacher burnout, lack of engagement, job dissatisfaction, poor performance, and some of the highest turnover rates ever.”

The brief suggests that “organizational interventions” designed to help reduce teacher stress can help. Charlottesville City Schools employee wellness program, for example, was created to help employees not only get and stay healthy, but feel valued and cared for, says Laura Floyd, the district’s human resources coordinator.

While CCS’ wellness program is “something that we’re constantly monitoring to see how we can improve,” Floyd adds, current offerings include fitness promotions like discounted gym memberships to area facilities, including ACAC, Brooks Family YMCA, and Smith Aquatic & Fitness Center and Carver Recreation Center. If an employee joins and visits one of those gyms at least eight times per quarter, the school division will pay $29.50 per month towards the membership, in addition to the already discounted corporate rate.

“So it’s an incentive to not only join but to make sure [they’re] actually going,” says Floyd. The school system’s hike/ bike-to-work program similarly incentivizes employees with an extra stipend to get and stay active.

Like many other organizations, Floyd says a key element to workplace wellness is access to an employee assistance program; CCS offers theirs through a partnership with the Faculty and Employee Assistance Program at the University of Virginia. “That’s important to let people know if they need to talk to someone, they can do that. [FEAP is] completely confidential. It’s free of charge,” says Floyd.

Some of the best workplace wellness programs are ones that are derived out of an understanding of your employee population and what motivates and incentivizes them, adds Floyd.

“You have to get to know what works, and understand that there is not necessarily going to be a one-size-fits-all—you need to have some sort of combination of things that you can do to suit the needs of your entire population,” she says.

“Wellness programs are very costly, so you have to be willing to invest,” she adds. “But you are investing in your employees, and what better thing is there to invest in?”

Apps for workplace wellness

Yes, there is an app for that. If you need an extra nudge—or maybe even an assertive push—to motivate you to adopt healthy behaviors at work, look no further than your mobile phone. While these apps are for living well in general, they have useful applications for on-the-job wellness.

Headspace: “A few minutes could change your whole day.” (Subscription)

Who wouldn’t want to be Zen AF at work, ready to blissfully and mindfully handle any challenge that comes your way? The Headspace app just might be able to get you there. Headspace features meditation exercises designed to address things like personal growth, anxiety management, work productivity, and creating a performance mindset. In addition to a more focused mind and less stress, Headspace purports to help you sleep better, so you can wake up feeling refreshed for another day at the office. Try the free, 10-day beginner’s meditation and mindfulness course.

MINDBODY: Book a local fitness class, spa appointment, or wellness treatment. (Free)

MINDBODY may be one of the more ubiquitous wellness mobile apps out there. With MINDBODY, you can sign up for a wake-up-your-brain, pre-work “Rise and Shine” yoga session from Common Ground Healing Arts, an early morning motivational running class set-to-music from Tread Happy on Eighth Street, a mind-and-body strength-building barre class from barre.[d] on Water Street, and plenty more wellness options to fit your busy work-life schedule. (Note: The app is free, not the classes.)

MyFitnessPal: “Fitness starts with what you eat.” (Free)

Weight loss challenges and nutrition counseling are common components of many workplace wellness programs. MyFitnessPal, routinely listed as one of the best calorie-tracking apps available, is a solid app that can help you be more mindful of your dietary needs and jumpstart your physical fitness journey, especially if your work-life is all-consuming. Tap the app’s massive food database and document your daily food intake into the food diary, monitor your nutrition stats and weight loss, and access other food tools and insights.

Mental health in the workplace

While physical health is often the centerpiece of workplace wellness programs, a focus on mental health is equally important to fostering a happier, healthier, and productive place to work.

Experiencing mental health issues on the job “is the norm, not the exception,” according to a recent report that surveyed more than 1,500 U.S. employees. With depression-related absences alone costing employers about $44 billion a year, helping employees address these issues makes business sense, says Elizabeth Irvin, executive director of The Women’s Initiative in Charlottesville.

In the workplace mental health report, 61 percent of those surveyed said their mental health impacted their productivity levels, and in general, employees were reluctant to talk about the topic at work, especially with human resources or senior leaders.

So how can employers create a more resilient work environment that supports mental health?

First, businesses and organizations can create a culture where workers feel safe to reach out to their supervisors or co-workers if they need help, suggests Irvin.

“So often, peers in the work setting are the ones that are going to notice changes in people’s ability to perform their daily tasks…so having those relationships where there’s a culture of being able to ask for help or ask how colleagues are doing [is important],” she says.

Second, basic training, like mental health first aid (which teachs skills for how to help an individual in crisis) can help prepare employers and supervisors to support staff who are struggling when they do come forward.

“That being said, there are going to be situations that would be outside of basic training, and so that’s where your supervisors or your HR folks would just want to know local resources and know that they wouldn’t have to go through the situation alone,” Irvin says. “They can actually get on the phone with a crisis counselor and walk through the steps that they need to take for an employee.”

Locally, employers can rely on resources like HelpHappensHere.org or emergency services from Region Ten, which also offers mental health first aid training.

Nationally, Irvin recommends the American Psychiatric Association Foundation’s Center for Workplace Mental Health as a resource. “Just knowing that professional help resources are available [is helpful]. And then the Women’s Initiative offers walk-in clinics and support groups as well,” she says.

Unique local workplace wellness resources

Local Food Hub and 4P Foods: While the occasional doughnut or pizza order for the office is a nice treat, healthier, locally cultivated delivery options are available.

In 2015, the Local Food Hub launched its Fresh Farmacy Fruit and Veggie Prescription Program, created to provide community participants with more equitable access to free, fresh, healthy food.

“But we very quickly realized that lots of people out there would benefit from seasonal shares of local produce,” says Portia Boggs, associate director of advancement and communications at Local Food Hub. “And a lot of workplaces were interested in providing those shares as a way of supporting their employees, because there is so much data out there that supports [outcomes like] reduced health care costs that come about from eating healthy.”

Later, a workplace wellness program—paid for by the participating companies themselves—was added to the Fresh Farmacy fruit and veggie prescription initiative.

In June 2019, Local Food Hub merged its distribution operations with Warrenton, Virginia-based food hub 4P Foods. Now, Charlottesville-area employers who want to sign up for a locally- and regionally-sourced seasonal fruit and vegetable share and have it delivered to their office need to go directly to 4P Foods.

Meanwhile, Local Food Hub continues the original mission of Fresh Farmacy by working with organizations like the University of Virginia’s BeWell program, where they provide free, fresh fruit and veggie shares to UVA employees most in need of health support services.

“Along with that food, participants get nutrition information, information on where the food comes from, recipes, and storage and preparation tips and all sorts of things that are designed to give participants confidence when working with whole produce, and ensure that they have the skills that they need to carry on those healthy lifestyle changes after the program ends,” says Boggs.

PivotPass: Richmond, Virginia-based PivotPass—originally founded in Charlottesville but now available in both RVA and C’ville and anywhere in the U.S. and internationally—offers corporate wellness solutions to organizations. In Richmond and Charlottesville, that includes discounted access to a network of participating gym and fitness studios. Through a custom app, PivotPass is also able to collect anonymized fitness data and insights that enable employers to better measure employee wellness and engagement levels, and reduce company health care costs.

Participating local gyms and fitness studios include Bend Yoga, Hot Yoga Charlottesville, Iyengar Yoga of Charlottesville, Solidarity CrossFit, and The Yellow Door (yoga and fitness).

Local PivotPass clients include Apex Clean Energy, GreenBlue, and Fringe (“the world’s first fringe benefits marketplace,” based in Richmond).

Whether you want to try Crossfit, or spend more time practicing yoga, co-founder April Palmer says PivotPass not only gives employees the option and variety to do what they like when they like, but it also layers in an “accountability factor” to help keep them on track.

The best thing [about PivotPass] is it’s so versatile,” says Palmer. “It’s a wellness program that meets me wherever I am at the moment.”

Common Ground Healing Arts: Common Ground Healing Arts, a nonprofit community wellness center located inside Jefferson School City Center, offers a workplace wellness program dubbed “Ground Work,” consisting of services designed to help employees de-stress, improve focus, and enhance productivity.

Services include yoga, chair massage, auricular acupuncture, and mindfulness workshops, the latter covering such workplace-relatable topics as “overcoming challenges,” “eliminating overwhelm,” and “dealing with change,” among others. To participate, employees can visit wellness practitioners at Common Ground, or the nonprofit can come to your office.

Common Ground executive director Elliott Brown says the benefits of workplace wellness are well-established. “Studies show, and most everybody you talk to will say, that the less stress they have, the better they can work, the more productive they can be, the happier they are, the longer they want to stay,” she says.

Brown adds that because they are a nonprofit, accessing workplace wellness—or wellness services in general—from Common Ground is not overly costly. Plus, providing access to wellness services like these can have a big impact on the employee, “which ultimately comes back around and makes it worth your cost because you get it back in productivity,” she says.

Categories
Living

Café and community: A taste of Little Havana comes to Cville

Proper Cuban food has been in short supply in the Charlottesville area, but that’s about to change when Guajiros Miami Eatery opens its doors in the next few weeks.

The restaurant is the brainchild of Miami transplant Harvey Mayorga, who, with his brother, Danilo, plans to bring a bit of Little Havana to the city, on Seminole Trail in the Woodbrook Shopping Center.

Mayorga said he and his wife, who came here to work at UVA about a year and a half ago, quickly noticed the paucity of Latin American food other than tacos or pupusas.

“We saw that there was a need for something different,” he says. After seeing the available space, Mayorga reached out to his brother, a restaurateur in Miami.

Mayorga says they’ll be serving their favorite Cuban food, with a bit of Miami/Cuban flair.

“There is a culture of ‘cafecito’ in Miami, where everyone on their commute stops at a ventana, or window, gets a Cuban toast, a croquette, and some café con leche before heading to work,” he says. “It’s a social event, even if it is for five or 10 minutes. We want to offer that.”

The brothers plan to start with breakfast and lunch service. Menu features will include breakfast sandwiches on Cuban bread, medialunas (crescent rolls), and a Cuban sandwich, as well as espresso, lattes, and café con leche. Mayorga said he hopes to introduce the Cuban colada (a multi-shot cup of sweet Cuban coffee) here as well. While they don’t yet have a liquor license, the plan is to eventually feature classic rum-based and Cuban cocktails with all-natural ingredients, including mojitos, daiquiris, el presidente cocktails, and rum old fashioneds.

What’s old is new again

Renovations are moving forward at the Boar’s Head’s Old Mill Room, which will reopen in January as the Mill Room.

“Walking in [to the new restaurant] will be very visually different,” says Joe Hanning, marketing and communications manager for the Boar’s Head. “It will still have the historic wooden beams and the same ambiance, but we’re opening it up to bring natural light in. All three seating areas will be combined as one and will be all brand new.”

And with the changes to the restaurant come some innovations that will put a 21st-century twist on the historic Trout House building behind the Mill Room.

“This was an historic shelter where long ago people would pick the trout they wanted for dinner—literally farm to table,” Hanning says. “We’re redesigning that to put in a hydroponic garden from Babylon Farms. We’ll be the only ones in North America to have self-sustained hydroponic gardens, where we’ll be producing our own leafy greens for the Mill Room.”

Executive chef Dale Ford is working on a new menu for the four-diamond restaurant, and conjuring up expansive plans for the hydroponic garden, all while tending to 20,000 honey bees up the hill from the Trout House. You can be sure that hyperlocal honey will be harvested and incorporated into the new menu.

Mourning a food community leader

A longtime philanthropic mainstay in the Charlottesville food community passed away suddenly last week.

Lisa Reeder, food and farm access coordinator for the Local Food HUB, had devoted nearly 20 years to working with and around food in central Virginia, the organization said. The Local Food HUB is a nonprofit organization that partners with Virginia farmers to increase community access to area food, and provides support services, infrastructure, and market opportunities that connect people with food grown close to home. The organization said Reeder had spearheaded its Fresh Farmacy program and oversaw a number of other community programs and partnerships.

In a statement, the Food HUB said Reeder was “passionate about all things food and agriculture, and found many ways to channel that passion into action.”

She understood the challenges of farming, and worked to bring needed resources to our partner farms,” the statement continued. “She made a mean BLT sandwich, and her contributions to staff potluck meals were unmatched. Even in the face of challenging health issues, her upbeat spirit and dedication to her friends, family, and work never wavered. Lisa will be greatly, greatly missed, but we will carry her example and her legacy with us with every step we take toward a healthier, more equitable food system.”

Feast! co-owner Kate Collier says Reeder’s loss will be felt far and wide.

“She’s always so strong, positive, and in the moment, helping others, putting friends first, feeding those who need it most, and spreading her beauty and light all around,” Collier says. “She was one of this community’s great women in food.”

Categories
Living

Restoration effort: The rebirth of the American chestnut

Nestled in Nelson County’s Lovingston hill country lie the orchards of one of the East Coast’s newest nut-growing operations, Virginia Chestnuts. Spanning 45 acres, the farmstead rests at the end of an isolated stretch of unpaved backroads that culminate in a steeply winding mile-long gravel driveway. Overlooking a series of knolls carved into the mountainside stands David and Kim Bryant’s Dutch Colonial-style farmhouse. Gazing out from its wraparound porch, the wind-blustered tops of more than 1,500 adolescent chestnut trees give way to a hollow brimming with oaks, walnuts, sycamores, maples and poplars. Like a foreshortened highway, the canopy corridors westward toward a horizon of Blue Ridge Mountains.

“It’s beautiful, isn’t it?” says Kim, a 54-year-old New Jersey native, almost shouting as I follow her down the driveway into the upper orchard. “We visited this property a little over 15 years ago and fell head over heels in love. We knew right away this was where we were going spend our retirement.”

It’s mid-October, and the chestnut harvest is in full swing—hence the noise. Patiently steering his John Deere tractor through row after row of trees, David, also 54, tows a harvester under the limbs and surrounding grass, gathering bushels of nuts. About as wide as the tractor and low to the ground, the implement looks like something you’d spot scooping up golf balls at a driving range, and operates basically the same way.

“The thing about chestnuts is, they aren’t ripe until they’ve fallen from the tree,” says Kim. “And once they’re on the ground, to ensure maximum freshness, you want to get them up immediately.” Harvest season runs from late September through October.

Wielding a red five-gallon bucket and a handheld picker reminiscent of a rolling cylindrical cooking wisp affixed to a broom handle, Kim joins her 12-year-old son, Houston. Shuffling along behind the tractor, they gather the hard-to-reach nuts manually. “The harvester grabs most of them, but some get kind of buried, and you have to dig those out by hand,” says Houston. “When it’s quiet, it can drive you a little crazy, ’cause you’ll be walking along and hear more of them falling right behind you. You just have to be patient and keep going.”

David (above) and Kim Bryant bought their 45-acre Nelson County farmstead in 2002, with the hopes of nurturing a viable chestnut-growing operation. Photo by Stephen Barling

From the orchard, the nuts are brought into a large packing and processing shed and run through the peeler, an automated, industrial-sized device that removes their leathery dark-brown shells. “After that, we package them in little burlap bags and store them in special humidity-controlled refrigeration units to ensure freshness,” says David. From there, orders are taken online, and the nuts are shipped to restaurants, individuals and retailers ranging from down the street to Maine and the coasts of Florida.

After the harvest, around the first of November, the Bryants had gathered more than 4,000 pounds of chestnuts. By December 17, aside from a small cache saved for personal consumption and developing value-added products like flour and chestnut butter, the nuts had all been sold.

“It’s a pretty grueling couple of months,” David admits. “But I wouldn’t trade it for anything.”

Wipeout

What makes the success of the Bryants and other orchardists so remarkable is the fact that, prior to 1984, the trees they’re growing didn’t exist—at least not properly. In fact, just under 70 years ago, the American chestnut tree had very nearly been wiped from the face of the Earth.

“What happened was, American orchard growers started importing Chinese chestnut trees around the turn of the 20th century and, in doing so, accidentally introduced a virulent pathogenic fungus to the native population,” says Tom Saielli, science coordinator for the American Chestnut Foundation’s Mid-Atlantic region. Headquartered in Charlottesville, Saielli is responsible for overseeing ACF research orchards and planting teams in Virginia, Maryland, West Virginia and Kentucky.   

While the Asiatic varieties had developed a natural resistance to the fungus, American trees were highly susceptible. Known as the chestnut blight, it enters a tree through a wound in the bark. Killing vascular tissues, the blight chokes off nutrient supplies above the point of infection, causing rot and ultimately toppling the tree. First detected in the Bronx Zoo in 1904, by 1950 the fungus had decimated the U.S. population.

“We went from having, like, 4 billion mature chestnut trees to zero in less than half a century,” says Saielli, his voice thick with grief. What he means by mature is, while the vast majority of American chestnuts were killed outright, an estimated 400,000 survived.

“That number surprises people,” he says. “They’ll say, ‘Hey, that means the trees didn’t die out after all.’ And that’s true. But those trees are really just shoots growing from the stumps of living root systems, which will never mature, because they’re still susceptible to the blight. There are no sexually mature pure American chestnut trees in the wild.”

And thus, no chestnuts.   

Food chain

Spanning north to south from Maine to lower Mississippi, and east to west from the Atlantic coastline to the Appalachian Mountains and Ohio Valley, the American chestnut tree was once the keystone species of East Coast forests. Reaching nearly 10 feet in diameter and standing upward of 100 feet tall with canopies equally as wide, the trees were impressive and more abundant than oaks.

“In some areas, the American chestnut comprised as much as 30 percent of the forest,” says Saielli. “In terms of historical importance, the trees were the quintessential American species. They held an unparalleled position in our culture.”

In wild forests, American chestnuts were the single most important source of food for wildlife along the East Coast. Meanwhile, the trees were lauded by gastronomists and restaurateurs as producers of the finest chestnuts in the world, celebrated by farmers for their capacity to nourish livestock (both as raw nuts and as milled feeds) and cherished by lumberjacks, carpenters and furniture-makers for their strong, straight-grained wood.

“On one hand, it was a particularly valuable tree commercially, because it grew faster than oak,” says Troy Coppage, president of 187-year-old Madison-based furniture company, E.A. Clore Sons, Inc. Specializing in fine handmade furniture, Coppage says his forebearers worked with the wood often. “It was rich in tannins, which made it extremely resistant to decay. It didn’t have the radial grain pattern of other hardwoods. And it was abundant.” All of which made the American chestnut incredibly popular.

“At this point, the only way you’ll get the wood is by salvaging it from old homes or buildings,” says Coppage.

And by about the time Nat King Cole turned 30, roasting American chestnuts on an open fire was an impossibility.

Then something miraculous happened. In 1983, inspired by the discoveries of various horticultural geneticists, the American Chestnut Foundation formed with the intention of restoring the iconic tree to the forest.

Photo by Stephen Barling

One such figure was Florida-based botanist Robert T. Dunstan. Fueled by his success using backcross breeding to save French grapevines from a bacterial pathogen known as Pierce’s Disease in the 1930s, by the early 1960s, Dunstan had developed a similar program for chestnuts. The discovery came about after a friend sent him clippings from one of the last standing American chestnut trees, which he then grafted to root-stock and crossed with Chinese trees hoping the latter would pass on their genes for blight resistance, and thereby create a blight-resistant hybrid with American characteristics.

Five years later, when the hybrids reached sexual maturity, Dunstan backcrossed his best specimens with their American parents. Inoculating the resultant saplings with blight, he culled the group, selecting only those with the highest blight-resistant characteristics for additional backcross breeding.

By the early ’80s, Dunstan had achieved his goal: His Florida orchard was chock-full of nut-bearing, blight-resistant chestnut trees exhibiting mostly American traits. And it is this tree—known as the Dunstan chestnut—that is now being grown by most commercial chestnut orchardists in America, including the Bryants.

“They have the sweet, hardy flavor of an American nut but aren’t as big as the Chinese varieties,” says David Bryant. “And they don’t yield as much as the Chinese trees either. But it’s that true American taste we’re after. That’s what’s important.”

Culinary reintroductions aside, with its focus on restoring true American chestnut trees to the wild, the ACF took the backcross breeding methods even further. “In our orchards, we continued the backcrossing process for another seven generations, until we got a tree retaining no Chinese characteristics whatsoever beyond blight resistance,” says Saielli. Aside from the resistance, the genes of these trees are in every way identical to what you’d find in a sample gleaned from the 1700s. This, Saielli says, “should enable the trees to compete and re-establish themselves in their natural setting.” (Whereas the Dunstan chestnut, which still exhibits some Chinese characteristics, would inevitably be outcompeted in the wild.)

While the first such location was established in Meadowview, Virginia, southwest of Roanoke, there are now three backcross orchards within a half-hour drive of Charlottesville, and another half-dozen within an hour. The orchards are located on private property and, due to the associated costs of maintenance, typically that of an estate.

With each generation of trees taking between five to 10 years to reach sexual maturity, the backcrossing process has been painstakingly slow. Now, 30 years later, the first blight-resistant pure American chestnut trees are finally being reintroduced to the forest. To date, the ACF has established more than 680 planting locations on a total of 1,883 acres of public and private land. And according to Saielli, that’s just the beginning.

“Our oldest orchards are now producing trees that are ready for the wild and, as the newer ones catch up, we’ll be scaling up planting operations accordingly,” he says. “Ten years from now, that will be our primary focus. In 30 years, we’ll have planted tens of thousands of acres.”

Growing up

“We bought this land in 2002 knowing we wanted to use it for agricultural production, but had no set specific idea about what that would entail,” says David Bryant, a former software entrepreneur. “Then I stumbled upon an article about growing chestnut trees. When I showed it to Kim, she got really excited. We did some additional research and realized this was it. We were going to grow chestnuts.”

After two years of prepping and planning, the couple planted a five-acre experimental crop of 100 chestnut trees in spring 2004. At first, the endeavor was pretty rocky—within a couple of seasons, the deer had basically killed off the plantings.

“It was a blow, but we decided to stay the course,” says Kim. “We did some more research and followed up by planting another thousand trees in 2007.”

Aided by protective sheathing and other improvements, the Bryants’ saplings survived. A year later, inspired by their success, another 400 plantings were added, increasing the orchard to 23 acres. Looking ahead, the couple invested in $25,000 worth of harvesting and storage equipment. By 2013, the trees were set to produce their first sellable nuts.

However, Mother Nature intervened again when cicadas ravaged everything. “The damage was extensive and led to the loss of both 2013’s and 2014’s crop,” says David. “For a while, we were holding our breath. We didn’t know if the trees were going to pull through. But in 2015, they bounced back, which was a tremendous relief.”

That year, the Bryants harvested 8,000 pounds of chestnuts. In 2016, despite heavy May rains that left many of their blossoms unpollinated, the trees performed similarly. This year, a late frost that damaged early spring blossoms, combined with a summer drought, more than halved production.

“The weather can be a finicky ally,” shrugs Kim. “But at this point, the trees are well-established and will start regularizing and producing more as they mature and grow tougher.”

The Bryants’ farm. Photo by Stephen Barling

In about 10 years, the Bryants’ trees will be fully mature. In addition to being hardier and less susceptible to weather and pests, they each should produce 50 to 100 pounds of nuts a year. By then, the orchard will have been thinned to around 1,000 trees. Low-balling the estimate, that’s 50,000 pounds of chestnuts a year. Considering the nuts sell for a retail price of $8 per pound, the economics are attractive, to say the least.

“Those numbers certainly have us excited,” says Laura Brown, director of the Local Food Hub, which serves as Virginia Chestnut’s exclusive Charlottesville distributor. Primarily selling to chefs and retail markets, this year, LFH has filled orders for Red Pump Kitchen, Threepenny Café, The Clifton Inn, Cavalier Produce, Feast!, Timbercreek Market and restaurants in Richmond and the Washington, D.C., area.

“As people continue to realize these nuts are making a return, demand stands to rise, which will in turn fuel more production,” says Brown. That means more farmers and, yes, more chestnut trees.

Taste makers

In the kitchen of Charlottesville’s Timbercreek Market, chef Tucker Yoder is busy preparing a sorghum and chestnut panna cotta with puffed sorghum, roasted pumpkin seeds and candied squash. The dessert is sweet and savory, with a hardiness that brings to mind firelit winter celebrations in an Old World lodge.   

“Cooking with local farm-raised ingredients is always special, but this is particularly true for chestnuts,” says Yoder, adding that it’s not often you get the chance to cook with something that, at the time of your birth, was believed to be essentially lost. Ten or 15 years ago, the nuts would likely have been purchased from orchards in California. Before that, from distributors importing from French orchards specializing in growing Asian varieties. “Buying chestnuts locally is great, because you know the product will be incredibly fresh and the flavor is considerably better than any frozen or jarred product.”

The chestnut panna cotta at Timbercreek Market. Cramer Photo

Describing the chestnut’s flavor profile as “creamy, mildly nutty and slightly earthy,” Yoder says the nuts pair well with squab, pork, duck, chicken, cream and pretty much any type of squash.

Meanwhile, just outside of town, at North Garden’s Pippin Hill Farm & Vineyards, executive chef Ian Rynecki is also cooking with nuts sourced from Virginia Chestnuts. “For entrées, I like to pair them with either fresh pasta or earthy mushrooms, and typically serve them roasted, pureed and folded into additional components,” he says. One example is the hen-of-the-wood agnolotti with roasted chestnut cream, Anjou pear and Parmesan cheese dish that currently graces his menu. “But they also blend fantastically into crèmes or pureed for dessert dishes, as French pastry chefs love to do,” he says.

Rynecki recently moved to Charlottesville from New York City, where you can still buy roasted chestnuts from street vendors. “It’s such an amazing thing to be able to do,” he says. “You’d think the chestnuts would be really nutty, but they’re actually a little on the sweet side. If roasted correctly, they have these amazing earthy notes, reminiscent of a sweet potato. It’s a really special flavor. You taste them and realize these nuts were beloved for a reason.”

The Bryants saw that reverence first-hand this year when they roasted chestnuts at Dickie Brothers Orchard. Most guests were testing chestnuts for the first time.

“People told us the stories their grandparents told them about eating chestnuts,” Kim Bryant says, “which kind of naturally led to us all talking about Christmas and traditions in general.”

Specifically, how they can change, fade, get lost, be rediscovered and made anew.

This story was changed at 9:55am January 12 to reflect the differences in the Dunstan chestnut and American chestnut.