Author: Paul Ting

Share the (common)wealth: A guide to local gourmet gifts

Post author By Paul Ting
Post date December 9, 2020
No Comments on Share the (common)wealth: A guide to local gourmet gifts

With 16 flavors to choose from, Gearharts Fine Chocolates are best purchased in large assortments. Photo by Eze Amos

Many of us are eagerly anticipating the chance to turn the page on what has been a unique and challenging year. However, at least one challenge remains before we can put 2020 behind us—shopping for holiday gifts.

There is perhaps no better time to shop local. Not only can you avoid possible shipping delays, but putting your money to work in our community and supporting small businesses in desperate need of every dollar can make a huge difference this year. If you have area artisans, makers, crafters, or restaurants that you treasure, give them a boost!

Wine lovers are easy to please—especially if the gift recipient isn’t from Virginia—by sharing some wine from any of our area’s producers. One high-impact option is the 2017 Rise from Early Mountain Vineyards (earlymountain.com). This concentrated and complex red blend, from the excellent 2017 vintage, is the winery’s flagship offering , and should age well for many years to come. Plus, a beautiful custom wooden box is included.

Another option for the wine enthusiast is a unique and beautiful wine stopper. Kirk McCauley (kirkmccauley.com), a woodturner from North Garden, handcrafts wine stoppers and other products (vases, bowls, furniture, chess sets, etc.) from local wood. The result is a one-of-a kind, breathtaking piece that anyone would be pleased to receive.

Fans of distilled products are lucky that two small-batch, craft producers are located in Charlottesville. Vitae Spirits (vitaespirits.com) makes a wide range of products including rum, gin, orange liqueur, and more. Its coffee liqueur, produced in collaboration with Mudhouse Coffee Roasters, is a favorite. Spirit Lab Distilling (spiritlabdistilling.com) produces single-malt whiskey, gin, brandy, grappa, etc. in small batches with an intense focus on local ingredients. Spirit Lab’s single-malt whiskey pays homage to traditionally produced Scotch whiskey, while simultaneously blazing a bold trail for a true expression of Virginia.

For the sweets lover on your list, something from Gearharts Fine Chocolates (gearhartschocolates.com) is always appreciated. Founded in 2001 in Charlottesville, the shop has been a mainstay for artisan chocolates, and with a signature line consisting of 16 tempting flavors, an assortment box is the way to go.

For someone who prefers caramel to chocolate, look no further than La Vache Microcreamery (lavachemicrocreamery.com). The caramels are available in traditional flavors such as fleur de sel and double espresso, and seasonal flavors that vary depending on the time of the year. The molasses ginger is particularly well suited for the holidays. These little packages of pleasure are crafted by hand, in small batches, without preservatives, and with ingredients sourced “as locally as possible.”

The Little Things Shortbread from FOUND. Market co (foundmarketco.com) has developed a bit of a cult following among those who have been lucky enough to taste it. In addition to the classic honey recipe, there are six flavor options, ranging from chocolate chip to cinnamon chai to salted rosemary.

JAM according to Daniel (accordingtodaniel.com) started as a weekly stand at City Market over a decade ago. To say that Daniel Perry is obsessed with jam would be a true understatement—he offers what seems like a hundred different seasonal jam recipes, all made from local fruit sourced from farms within 60 miles of Charlottesville. In addition, he now offers gift boxes that combine some of the most popular jam flavors with herbal teas grown on Fairweather Farm in nearby Nelson County, where Rachel Williamson runs a “one-woman, one-acre” farm.

A different sort of farming is happening in Batesville at Elysium Honey Company (elysiumhoney.com). Like many wine producers, Elysium is focused on how the environment (soil, climate, type of flower, etc.) influences the taste of the final product. The Virginia Wildflower honey is harvested from and around Albemarle County, and represents the sweetest taste of the Virginia Piedmont area.

Two local producers can help with the cooks on your list. Blanc Creatives (blanccreatives.com) has earned national recognition for its line of carbon steel pans. In addition, it offers products such as handmade wooden kitchen tools, serving boards, and barware. Monolith Knives (monolithknives.com) hand forges one-of-a-kind steel kitchen knives that are designed to last a lifetime. Monolith will work with customers to customize every detail of the knife from the type and intended use, to the length, materials, and look of the handle and blade.

Want to feel really good about your gift? Go with a gift card. There is an extra benefit right now to purchasing gift cards at local restaurants. Whether redeemed now for takeout and delivery or saved in anticipation of gathering again, the immediate income is something that independent restaurants need.

And you can give a gift to the restaurant industry by writing to your Congressional representatives to tell them to support the Restaurants Act, which provides needed financial aid and relief for independent restaurants. This will help ensure that our favorite establishments will be here in the future—a gift we all want.

Tags blanc creatives, City Market, Daniel Perry, early mountain vineyards, Elysium Honey Company, Fairweather Farm, Found. Market Co., JAM according to Daniel, Kirk McCauley, Little Things Shortbread, Monolith Knives, Mudhouse Coffee Roasters, Rachel Williamson, Restaurants Act, Spirit Lab Distilling, Vitae Spirits

Culture Living

Thanks, Virginia: Go local at your holiday table this year

Post author By Paul Ting
Post date November 18, 2020
No Comments on Thanks, Virginia: Go local at your holiday table this year

Drinking well-crafted, locally sourced wines, beers, and ciders will be easy at this year’s Thanksgiving table. Staff photo

If you are looking for the perfect beverage to accompany your Thanksgiving meal, area producers have many options, ranging from beer to wine to cider. Here are some recommendations to help you drink well while also drinking local.

Amber and brown ales are obvious options for pairing with turkey, stuffing, potatoes, and gravy. The seasonally offered Apple Crumb Apple Ale from Three Notch’d Brewing adds an extra dimension by incorporating apples and cinnamon into the brew. These notes combined with malty, bready, and caramel flavors will remind you of freshly baked apple pie.

A sour or funky farmhouse ale, or even a full-on sour beer, can bring a bit of acid to the table. The sourness cuts through the fattiness of roasted meats, while side dishes with fruit flavors or sweetness bring out similar fruit notes in the beer. Starr Hill’s Carole Cran-Raspberry Gose, only available through December, delivers autumn berry flavors and a nice balance of sweet and sour fruit.

The vanilla, caramel, and chocolate notes found in porter are a great match for dessert. Strange Currencies, from Reason Beer, was originally brewed as a birthday present from the head brewer to his wife. It’s currently available in four-packs of 16-ounce cans direct from the brewery. It’s full and satisfying enough that it could be served on its own instead of dessert, but who is going to pass on that slice of pie?

Two wines deserve a second recommendation in these pages because they are perfect for Thanksgiving: The 2017 petit manseng from Michael Shaps Wineworks and 2017 pinot noir from Ankida Ridge Vineyards. Shaps’ petit manseng is a dry, white wine with weight and texture that brings flavors of honey, tropical fruit, and nutmeg spice at the finish. As a white wine, it can pair with lighter fare, and with roast chicken or turkey. Pinot noir is the classic red wine to pair with Thanksgiving turkey, and the pinot noir from Ankida Ridge Vineyards is the best example of the varietal in Virginia, full of flavors of cherry, cranberry, plum, and cola. Its long, fruit-filled finish will have your mouth watering and anticipating the next bite or sip.

The 2017 Small Batch Series Viognier from King Family Vineyards should also be on your radar. Winemaker Matthieu Finot ferments these white grapes on their skins, more like a red wine would be produced, thus adding aromatics on the nose, and creating a fullness on the palate, and texture in the mouth that will stand up well to the dishes of the season. Similar to the petit manseng mentioned above, this white wine holds up well throughout the meal.

When it comes to Virginia red wine, we can’t forget cabernet franc, which has the perfect weight and flavors for stewed, roasted, grilled, and smoked meats. The 2019 Madison County cabernet franc from Early Mountain Vineyards is a wonderful example of what this grape can be when grown on a good site and in an excellent vintage year. It’s full of ripe red and black fruits with undertones of green herbs and a full finish highlighted by soft, fine tannins.

For many, cider evokes visions of dry falling leaves, pumpkin patches, and hayrides on the farm. Our local industry continues to push forward with creativity and passion, and cider-lovers are benefiting from interesting small-batch, craft products.

The Cranberry Orange Blossom Cider from Potter’s Craft Cider is a limited and seasonal release. With subtle hints of sweet and sour flavors and a pleasant acidity, it will cut through heavier, fattier dishes and can serve a similar role as the sour beers mentioned above. Intentionally produced at only 5.5 percent alcohol by volume, it’s bright and easy drinking that won’t weigh you down before your celebration is over.

Another intriguing option is the just-released 2019 Bricolage Sparkling Cider from Patois Cider. Featuring wild, unsprayed local apples and a minimal intervention fermentation process, this cider develops fine bubbles in the bottle that are sure to please. The palate shows textural weight expresses a depth of caramelized fruit flavors without being too sweet. Delicious on its own, it will also complement a wide range of dishes. This versatility means you can drink this through the entire day of feasting, or at least until the turkey and football games lull you to sleep.

Tags Ankida Ridge Vineyards, early mountain vineyards, king family vineyards, Madison County, Matthieu Finot, Michael Shaps Wineworks, Potter's Craft Cider, starr hill, Three Notch'd Brewing

Culture Living

Growing up: Jason Tesauro Talks Virginia Wine for #VAWineMonth

Post author By Paul Ting
Post date October 21, 2020
No Comments on Growing up: Jason Tesauro Talks Virginia Wine for #VAWineMonth

Every October Virginians raise a glass to living in a state with the oldest wine month in the country (it dates back to 1988). We also celebrate the fact that Virginia has become the sixth-largest wine region in the United States, contributing well over $1 billion to the state’s economy, while the industry continues to grow in both size and reputation.

The Virginia Wine Board has events planned throughout the month, including Virginia Wine 101, hosted by Jason Tesauro. In addition to his ongoing role as a fierce advocate for Virginia wine, Tesauro has contributed articles to such publications as Decanter, Esquire, and Travel+Leisure, and has served as the national brand director and chief sommelier for Barboursville Vineyards since 2002.

We asked Tesauro to highlight a handful of local wineries that tell the story of Virginia wine’s past, present, and future. His answers give insight into an industry that has come a long way, that is proud of what’s been accomplished, and is full of dreams and aspirations for the future.

C-VILLE Weekly: Are there wineries that you consider pioneers in the industry, that have done something notable in terms of Virginia wine being where it is today?

JT: Barboursville Vineyards is where vitis vinifera [the main species of grapevine used to make fine wine] was first cultivated on a commercial scale and where low-cropped, early-picked, high-acid, no-and-low oak, finesse-driven, Old World-style wine growing established itself as Virginia’s modus operandi.

Thibaut-Janisson Winery pioneered what’s possible with traditional-method sparkling wine in Virginia, and has defined the premium sparkling wine category in Virginia. I’ve showcased their Blanc de Chardonnay in blind tastings against champagne and blown people’s minds.

Ankida Ridge Vineyards is absolutely the pinot pioneer of Virginia. Embracing high-elevation viticulture, they’re leading the way toward cooler climate varieties and raising expectations of what can happen up in the mountains both there and in other places, such as the Shenandoah Valley.

What wineries do you consider at the forefront right now in terms of representing or promoting
Virginia wine?

Veritas Vineyard and Winery stands out to me as a complete wine estate. The combination of family-run farm and destination for hospitality is a compelling model. Dining and overnighting in The Farmhouse adds a sumptuous layer of leisure and wine country. Wine is supposed to transport us with “somewhereness.” When a winery combines that concept with physical acts of feeding us, pampering us, and nourishing us, something else happens. More and more wineries are adding this kind of hospitality element, and I bet that many of them started with an aspirational visit to Veritas.

King Family Vineyards is on every “Best of” list for good reason. Mathieu Finot is a brilliant winemaker who leads with his French instincts, but is never limited by them. He makes serious wines for cellaring and fun wines for carousing. He consults, collaborates, and experiments. That kind of balance remains a benchmark for every new winemaker in the state.

What do you see as the future of Virginia wine? How does the present inform what’s coming?

One thing we’ve learned through the pandemic, wineries built on events rather than wine are vulnerable. The future belongs to those that can deal with the mercurial weather with smart viticultural practices and deal with the mercurial economy with smartly scaled production and distribution. It will be challenging for those who depend overwhelmingly upon concert traffic and tasting-room sales to survive.

White wine blends are a promising trend. Wineries are experimenting with blends to craft consistent complexity and balance. We already know red blends afford winemakers the opportunity to adjust to vintage variation by playing with percentages. If late rains leave cabernet sauvignon less than richly ripe, then the winemaker can turn up the volume on cabernet franc and petit verdot. It’s a newer idea here to do something similar with white blends.

Higher-elevation grape growing is becoming more than a curiosity. Watch how small vineyard blocks located in the benchland (sides of mountains) and hilltops start coming to play in a serious way.

Esquire magazine recently reported that only one in 1,000 winemakers is black. Virginia wine, in partnership with Virginia Tech and community colleges, has an opportunity and, dare I say, a responsibility to create and bolster viticulture and enology programs at the regional and local level. It’s been said that 40 percent of Virginia winemakers have foreign accents such as French, Italian, Spanish, Indian, or South African. I expect to see a much more diverse slate of talent as we create a better farm system to draw BIPOC students into the fascinating world of agriculture.

Any other suggestions for people celebrating Virginia wine this month?

Visit more wineries, pick a couple of favorites, and build a small collection. Use a decanter and don’t drink white wines so cold.

Tags Barboursville Vineyards, Jason Tesauro, king family vineyards, The Virginia Wine Board, Veritas Vineyard and Winery

Knife & Fork Magazines

Dressing up dinner: Make these bottles part of your weekday ritual—occasion or no

Post author By Paul Ting
Post date October 19, 2020
No Comments on Dressing up dinner: Make these bottles part of your weekday ritual—occasion or no

Ankida Ridge. Photo: Courtesy Ankida Ridge

While many regard wine as something best reserved for special occasions, there are tremendous rewards to be found by integrating it into everyday life. Treat it like a longtime friend—never a special guest—at every meal. Here are a few essentials that can become your “house wines”—staples to keep stocked and ready to be your companion on any day, special occasion or not.

Choose a versatile white wine to start, one that can stand on its own in the glass but also has fruit and acidity to pair well with food. Chardonnay is perfect for this because it is made in many different styles—it’s easy to find one to please everyone. Go with one that has a bit of a roundness in texture and some acidity so it can be consumed year-round and in a variety of situations. The 2018 Midland Construction Chardonnay ($27, midland.wine) fits the bill, with a delicate nose that hints at sweet honeyed citrus, papaya, mango, and white flowers and a palate that is bright and lean with sweet lemon-lime, orange peel, and a long finish full of acidity and just a hint of bitterness. Lees aging (keeping the wine in contact with yeast) adds fullness and a baked bread quality.

Sparkling wine can highlight any celebration, large or small, but also consider popping the cork more often, as it can be a great accompaniment to everyday food (think fried chicken, fish tacos, macaroni and cheese, and even popcorn). The Thibaut-Janisson Xtra Brut ($36, tjwinery.com), an excellent and serious wine, is made with chardonnay and incorporates a bit of oak-aging. Medium-bodied with fine, rolling bubbles, it displays complex flavors of apple and pears with hints of roasted nuts. This is a dry wine, and while some might prefer a version with more sweetness, this bottling is as well-crafted as you’ll find in Virginia.

A medium-bodied red—something not too heavy or high in alcohol—is perfect for a weekday evening, It’s also perfect for pasta with red sauce, pizza, and roast chicken. The 2018 Blenheim Vineyards Cabernet Franc ($22, blenheimvineyards.com) is a wonderful example, coming in at just 12 percent alcohol and expressing the varietal character that makes cabernet franc such a success in Virginia. This fruity, low tannin wine goes down easy, expressing flavors of cherry, cranberry, pepper, and a bit of sage.

For steaks on the grill, or maybe just a quiet night of contemplation on the deck, a full-bodied red wine should always be on hand. There are many worthy examples available, including the 2016 Jake Busching F8 ($43, jakebuschingwines.com), a 50-50 blend of petit verdot and tannat. This is dark and brooding wine, big and bold with flavors of blackberries, stewed plums, smoke, tar, and a hint of roses. Good acidity and strong tannic structure suggest this wine will continue to improve in bottle, but it’s delicious right now.

A final recommendation is to always have dessert wine on hand. A glass can be served on its own to finish a meal or paired with a sweet ending to add a special touch. For flavors like apple pie, creme brulee, or vanilla ice cream, a white dessert wine such as the Barboursville Vineyards 2016 Paxxito or the Michael Shaps Raisin d’Être White will match beautifully. For those who prefer chocolate, look for a port-style wine such as the Stinson Vineyards 2016 Imperialis ($31, stinsonvineyards.com). This sweet, dark wine with flavors of black plums, raisins, and cola can be the perfect ending to your night.

King Family Vineyards’ 2017 Mountain Plains Red has aromas of cherries, plums,
and black currants.

Stock up

Here are a few more recommendations (because you can never have too many bottles on hand).

Whites

2018 Chatham Vineyards Church Creek Steel Fermented Chardonnay
2019 Keswick Vineyards Chardonnay

Sparkling

Ankida Ridge 2016 Blanc de Blancs
Veritas 2015 Scintilla

Reds

Michael Shaps 2017 Cabernet Franc
Early Mountain Vineyards 2018 Madison County Cabernet Franc
Pollak Vineyards 2016 Meritage
King Family Vineyards 2017 Mountain Plains Red

Culture Living

Brewin’ through it: Oktoberfest is canceled. Autumn beers are not.

Post author By Paul Ting
Post date October 7, 2020
No Comments on Brewin’ through it: Oktoberfest is canceled. Autumn beers are not.

Devils Backbone’s O’Fest Lager has a 5.9 percent ABV, and will appeal to beer drinkers who find other festbiers too light.

Sadly, the largest and most famous Oktoberfest celebration, held annually in Munich, Germany, has been canceled this year due to COVID-19. Oktoberfest traditionally begins in mid- September and continues into October. Of course, autumn isn’t canceled, and as it arrives in Virginia, local breweries and beer drinkers can look forward to the release of beers appropriate for the season.

In Germany, the term Oktoberfestbier is legally defined with strict regulations about ingredients, brewing methods, alcohol levels, etc. In the United States, breweries have a bit more leeway, but beers that are specifically for Oktoberfest fall primarily into two categories: festbier or märzen. Märzen is the darker, fuller-bodied style many identify as the beer of fall, and was once the beer served in Germany for Oktoberfest. However, recently there’s been a move away from this style to the lighter-bodied festbier style. Festbier, a pale lager with low alcohol content, is more refreshing, making it easier to drink, and easier to drink more of.

Whether your personal preference is for a lighter- or a fuller-bodied style, local breweries have you covered.

The Festie Oktoberfest Lager from Starr Hill Brewery is available only during the months of September and October. It’s traditional in style with a low alcohol level of 4.8 percent ABV (alcohol by volume), and a pale golden color that is accompanied by a malty, biscuit nose and a light yeasty bread palate with just a hint of Hallertau hops. Interestingly, the beer is labeled “märzen-style” but falls squarely in the festbier category. It’s also available as part of the brewery’s Fall Tour variety pack that includes Starr Hill’s Grateful Pale Ale, Reviver Red IPA, and Last Leaf Maple IPA too.

Devils Backbone also has a festbier, the O’Fest Lager. It comes in slightly heavier at 5.9 percent ABV. It’s golden in color with a bit more fullness on the palate. A light nose of cracker and lemon peel leads to malty and toasted bread flavors, with a drying finish and slightly lingering hop bitterness. Very classic in style, this will appeal to those who find other festbiers a bit too light.

The 13.Five Oktoberfest Lagerbier from Blue Mountain Brewery takes its name from German regulatory laws requiring beers served at Oktoberfest to have an original specific gravity of 13.5° Plato. This number is related to the final alcohol level, which is 6 percent ABV in this case. The beer is medium amber in color, with a nose that is malty and bready, with hints of toasted sesame. On the palate, it is rich with lots of biscuit and cracker and well-balanced hop character. This märzen-style brew is a clear nod to tradition and is a good example of what many expect of Oktoberfest beer.

Just released, the Märzen Oktoberfest- style Amber Lager from Random Row Brewing Co. comes in at 5.8 percent ABV and brings malty, yeasty flavors with hints of rye bread. There is a touch of citrus- flavor hops on the slightly drying finish. Very pleasant and easy drinking, it’s available on tap and in four-packs of 16-ounce cans.

Three Notch’d Brewing Company’s limited release Oktoberfest beer is cleverly named Hansel and Kettle Imperial Oktoberfest. Available in 16-ounce. cans, this is a full-bodied märzen-style beer with higher alcohol (8 percent ABV), a dark caramel color, and a weighty palate. The sweet biscuit nose leads to flavors of toast and dark caramel and a long finish that has just a hint of bitterness. Very enjoyable for those looking for a fuller style märzen.

Champion Brewing is really getting into Oktoberfest this year with the release of four German-style beers: a festbier (5.5 percent ABV), a märzen (also 5.5 percent ABV), a kölsch (5 percent ABV), and Lagerboi (a zwickelpils, which is an unfiltered pilsner-style beer that is becoming more popular with American beer drinkers and comes in at 4.8 percent ABV). Hunter Smith, president of Champion, shared that he is excited to also feature the festbier and märzen on tap at his Brasserie Saison restaurant.

One of the newest breweries in town, Selvedge Brewing at The Wool Factory, is also offering a traditionally German style for the fall. Corduroy is a bock, typically darker in color and a little higher in alcohol than beers made for Oktoberfest. At 7 percent ABV, it’s a deep amber brew that’s still smooth on the palate. The nose is reminiscent of rising bread dough. Full flavors combine malty, yeasty, and roasted nuttiness with a slight sweetness. The overall impression suggests warm, toasted brioche, and it’s a perfect beer for chilly autumn days.

Lastly, for some the fall season would not be complete without flavors of pumpkin or maple. While the explosion of pumpkin beers that was seen a few years ago has seemed to subside, Rockfish Brewing Co. offers a seasonal pumpkin ale for those who are looking. The previously mentioned Last Leaf Maple IPA from Starr Hill will entice those who love maple syrup with a flavor that isn’t overly sweet, but reminds them of freshly made pancakes on a Saturday morning.

Whatever your fancy, local breweries are offering a variety of beers to tempt your palate this autumn. Even if you can’t travel to Germany, it’s still possible to celebrate Oktoberfest and good beer here in Virginia.

Tags Blue Mountain Brewery, Champion Brewing, festbier category, Festie Oktoberfest Lager, Lagerbier, märzen-style, O’Fest Lager, Oktoberfest, Random Row Brewing Co., Rockfish Brewing Co, Selvedge Brewing, Starr Hill Brewery, Three Notch'd Brewing Company

Culture Living

Warm ups: Virginia wines for chilling out in autumn

Post author By Paul Ting
Post date September 2, 2020
No Comments on Warm ups: Virginia wines for chilling out in autumn

The 2017 Wildkat Rkatsiteli from Stinson Vineyards is an aromatic, heavier white made locally with one of the world’s oldest varietals. Courtesy stinson vineyards

With current temperatures and humidity remaining high, many of us are likely still enjoying crisp and refreshing white, rosé, and sparkling wines, and the thought of drinking something heavier seems impossible. However, soon it will be autumn, and the cooler weather will bring crisper evenings, more time outdoors on porches and decks, and food from the barbecue, grill, or smoker.

The change in season also brings out the heartier wines. White wines with more weight on the palate and aromatic complexity take over from the bright, lean, high-acid summer go-tos. Fuller-bodied red wines, with more structure from tannins and heavier flavor extraction, become welcome companions that promote conversation, comfort, and inspire contemplation.

Virginia wine has many options well suited to this time of year, including familiar varieties such as chardonnay and cabernet franc. Here are some less-well-known examples that are worth seeking out.

Rkatsiteli

Rkatsiteli is perhaps not a variety that immediately jumps to mind when it comes to white wine in Virginia. It’s one of the oldest known grape varieties and it originated in the country of Georgia. The wine is spicy, floral, and a bit textural on the tongue. These characteristics make it a good pairing for roast pork, smoked vegetables, beans, and stews. It also pairs well with Asian- or Middle Eastern-spiced cuisines, such as dishes from India, Lebanon, and Vietnam.

There’s not a lot in Virginia, but I can recommend two excellent examples: the 2019 Rkatsiteli from Blenheim Vineyards ($19, blenheimvineyards.com) and the 2017 Wildkat Rkatsiteli from Stinson Vineyards ($27.99, stinsonvineyards.com). The Blenheim bottling is a bit lighter in weight with a floral nose and flavors of apricots, roasted peaches, and tarragon. Stinson’s version utilizes skin contact, a process similar to how red wines are made, which extracts more flavor, color, and tannins (also known as “orange” wine). The result is a darker, heavier wine with aromas of honeysuckle, Asian pears, and dried apricots, and flavors of white peaches, pumpkin, and a slight bitterness on the finish reminiscent of grapefruit and orange peel.

Both of these wines benefit from being served a bit warmer, which allows the many aromas and flavors to fully express themselves.

Petit Manseng

Petit manseng is beginning to fulfill its early promise, drawing rave reviews and gaining recognition here in Virginia. Made into a white wine, it has full and complex aromas and flavors that often include honey notes, spice characters, and tropical fruits. With a heavier body and lots of complexity, it’s a perfect wine for fall.

I highly recommend the Michael Shaps Wineworks 2017 Petit Manseng ($30, virginiawineworks.com). If I could have only one white wine from Virginia to drink during the autumn months, this would be the one. It exhibits lime, white flowers, and wet stone on the nose. It has a broad, rich, luxurious feel with complex flavors of lemon-lime, beeswax, and papaya. A very long finish extends with a pleasant hint of white stone.

Like rkatsiteli, this wine is better when served a bit warmer than most white wines.

Pinot Noir

If there is one grape variety that many identify with autumn, it’s pinot noir. This red variety produces wines of medium weight, relatively lower tannins, and complex flavors of red and black fruits, Asian and baking spices, and savory characteristics such as mushroom, fall leaves, and dried tea leaves. While there isn’t a lot of pinot noir in Virginia, Ankida Ridge Vineyards makes an excellent example, and the 2017 Pinot Noir ($44, anikdaridge.com) is a great wine from a great vintage. On the nose are aromas of cherry, plum, blackberries, and baking spices, echoed in the flavor, along with a pleasant cola and a long finish that presents hints of vanilla. Fans of pinot noir should also be on the lookout for Ankida Ridge’s yet unreleased 2017 Pinot Noir Reserve, which should be available soon.

Cabernet Sauvignon

For some red wine fans, the bigger and bolder the better. In other regions, cabernet sauvignon fits that bill, but it can be difficult to fully ripen in the local climate. As a result, you don’t see a lot of cabernet sauvignon as a single variety bottling in Virginia. Instead, big red wines often consist of blends that may also include cabernet franc, merlot, petit verdot, and tannat. However, the right vineyard site combined with an excellent vintage year can bring success, and this is the case for the Pollak Vineyards 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon ($50, pollakvineyards.com). On the nose there are hints of vanilla with lots of red fruit and a bit of stewed black plum. On the palate, there are red fruits, vanilla, baking spices, cinnamon, and a hint of smoke with a lingering finish that includes some crushed stone characteristics. This wine has solid tannic structure and great potential to age, but is also balanced and approachable if you are drinking it now. It’s a wonderful wine and winner of the 2020 Monticello Cup.

I wholeheartedly encourage you to try these wines as you raise a glass to autumn in Virginia. These bottles showcase great things happening in local vineyards and wineries, and they will definitely reward your time and attention.

Tags Ankida Ridge Vineyards, blenheim vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon, Michael Shaps Wineworks, petit manseng, Pinot Noir, pollak vineyards, Rkatsiteli, Stinson Vineyards

Culture Living

Good company: Easy-drinking Virginia wines suited to the season

Post author By Paul Ting
Post date July 22, 2020
3 Comments on Good company: Easy-drinking Virginia wines suited to the season

From rosé to vermouth, locally produced wines can take the heat off this summer. Image: Virginia Hamrick

As summer temperatures rise, happy hour thoughts turn to wines that refresh. How best to quench your thirst on the deck or by a pool? What to pair with afternoon picnics or early evening cookouts?

Here are a few recommended local options to help you keep drinking well through the rest of the summer. This isn’t meant to be comprehensive or a list of “best” wines, but rather an invitation to try something different. After all, isn’t the “best” wine often the one you have in a glass on a beautiful day, especially when it’s shared with good company?

Rosé

Rosé is popular in spring, but it can be appropriate for the hotter months as well. The Crosé 2019 from King Family Vineyards is a good pick. Made from merlot, it has a nice lift from underlying acidity and summer flavors such as lime, grapefruit, and watermelon. It’s also available in 187ml (about 6 oz.) cans, the perfect one-glass portion and an easy format to transport and keep chilled ($21.95 available as single bottle or a four-pack of cans, kingfamilyvineyards.com).

The 2019 Rosé from Early Mountain Vineyards ($25, earlymountain.com) is a personal favorite and I’m seeing it on more tables and in more glasses this summer. Produced from a blend of grapes that changes each year, the 2019 is full of acidity and pleasant flavors of strawberry, barely ripe peaches, and white flowers. The lingering finish contains hints of bitter grapefruit that encourage you to take another sip or a bite of food.

Sparkling Wine

Like rosé, sparkling wine is a great choice for summer. Bubbles are always appropriate, but traditionally made sparkling wines, with acidity and bright flavors of citrus fruits, are excellent options for any sunny activity. I’ve written about local sparkling wine previously in these pages, and it’s easy to once again recommend the Thibaut-Janisson Blanc de Chardonnay ($29.99, tjwinery.com) for both its quality and delicious flavors. You may also find Thibaut-Janisson Virginia Fizz in some stores. It’s sold at a slightly lower price point and made in a style similar to prosecco.

Albariño

Best known as a variety that thrives in Spain and Portugal, albariño is attracting attention in California and the Pacific Northwest wine regions as well. There’s not a lot of albariño in Virginia, but the examples I’ve tried suggest it holds great promise for our region. A crisp, refreshing, and high-acid white wine, it’s perfect for a sweltering day. I recommend the Afton Mountain Vineyards 2019 Albariño ($28, aftonmountainvineyards.com), which is fresh and lean with flavors of lime, clementine, and hints of green grass. There’s an underlying salinity, characteristic of albariño, and if you’re not already sitting on a beach, this wine will prompt you to close your eyes and imagine that you are.

Chardonel

Chardonel is a hybrid grape variety, a cross between seyval and chardonnay, developed by Cornell University in 1953. While not all hybrids make great wine, chardonel is known for superior wine quality and cold hardiness, which makes it well suited to Virginia. Locally, winegrowers and winemakers have expressed interest in working more with hybrids, and chardonel is one of the more promising options. The 2018 Chardonel from 53rd Winery and Vineyard ($19.95, 53rdwinery.com) is a crisp and refreshing example with flavors of green apples, white pears, and lime. If you’re a chardonnay-lover, this is something new and interesting to try.

Vermouth

Vermouth may not come to mind immediately when talking about summer wines. Originating in Italy as a medicinal product, vermouth has found its fame as an aperitif. Vermouth starts with a base wine to which botanicals (herbs, spices, roots, etc.) and a bit of brandy are added. In this country, vermouth gets a bad rap because most people first experience inexpensive bottles that have spoiled after they’ve been left sitting on a home bar for years. Vermouth is wine, and just like wine it needs to be consumed relatively soon after opening and before it spoils. Around the globe, vermouth is held in high regard as a versatile and delicious beverage that can be adapted to any occasion and time of day.

Flying Fox Vineyards produces four vermouths, each with different botanical flavors added, one to represent each of the seasons ($35 each, flyingfoxvineyard.com). Don’t feel limited by the season written on the bottle, however, as these can be refreshing any time of the year and you may find your own favorite among the four.

The vermouth from Rosemont of Virginia ($25, rosemontofvirginia.com) is produced in partnership with Capitoline Vermouth in Washington, D.C. (capitolinevermouth.com). It is a bold expression of sweet citrus flavors with a base of local herbs and a satisfying bitter finish.

Vermouth can be served unadorned, on the rocks with a twist, chilled with a splash of soda water, or in a variety of cocktails. Perhaps the most famous use of vermouth is in the classic wine cocktail known as a “spritz,” which combines vermouth with sparkling wine and a splash of soda water. Experiment a bit and you may find that vermouth becomes your mainstay drink for many summers to come.

Culture Living

Chilled Out

A late-spring freeze may be the reason there’s no fruit at the finish line for many area wineries. file photo

Wineries everywhere are facing unprecedented challenges as they have been forced to adapt business models and get creative during the COVID-19 outbreak. Local wineries were presented with an additional threat in the form of weather. A warmer than average winter brought early grape budding. This can be good, because it provides more time for ripening later in the season. However, it also brings risk, and these buds were exposed to multiple spring frosts capped off by a polar vortex during Mother’s Day weekend. This last event brought more than frost, in some areas it brought temperatures well below freezing, which damaged and killed nascent grape buds.

There are a variety of techniques used to protect vineyards when cold is expected. Stephen Barnard, winemaker at Keswick Vineyards, says they use “burn piles, wind machines, drain machines, and irrigation” to keep warmer air circulating. Some wineries even fly helicopters in hopes of bringing warmer air down to the ground. Of course, this requires labor and money, and many simply don’t have the resources to do much more than watch and pray.

Others rely on the specific characteristics of their vineyards to protect the vines from cold. Lee Hartman, winemaker at Bluestone Vineyard, says they planted vines on a hill “with our earlier breaking varieties at the top so cold air can drain away,” and Emily Pelton, winemaker at Veritas Vineyard & Winery, explains that “typically our elevation protects” from cold weather. But, Pelton expects that Veritas will harvest slightly more than half of what it initially projected this year. “You can clearly see that the biggest influence here was elevation,” she says. “Low spots were completely toasted, with 100 percent of shoots affected. As you move up the hill towards the top at about 950 feet, you start to see less and less damage.”

The problem with relying on the movement of warm air to protect the vineyard comes when you simply run out of warm air to move. Jake Busching of Hark Vineyards and Jake Busching Wines says with a freeze, even closed buds can be killed. “Prior to May 10, the frosts we had experienced were marginal, with losses to maybe a 30 percent loss. However, on May 10, we experienced a freeze, which is significantly different from a frost.”

Busching estimates that Hark experienced a loss of 95 percent of its potential fruit for the 2020 vintage. This represents approximately 3,200 cases of production and vanished sales. Unfortunately, this tale of severe damage is repeated by many others. Chelsey Blevins, winemaker at Fifty-third Winery & Vineyard, says her entire Louisa site, and approximately 80 percent of the winery’s sister vineyard site located in Free Union, is lost.

Tyler Maddox, vineyard manager for Fifty-third, explained on social media that, while it’s good news that the vines themselves survived, keeping the vineyard healthy requires the same amount of labor and investment even without the reward of fruit at the finish. This can be particularly demanding for smaller operations that are already financially challenged by coronavirus.

Certainly, not every winery experienced the same degree of damage. Maya Hood White, associate winemaker and viticulturist at Early Mountain Vineyards, reports that Early Mountain “for the most part got very lucky” with damage primarily in vineyard areas planted with chardonnay and petit manseng. Kirsty Harmon at Blenheim Vineyards, had varying degrees of damage. “We have had damage to our vines in the lower spots in the vineyard…based on elevation and where the cold air was not able to keep moving. Some blocks in those areas have been completely wiped out.”

With very little fruit from which to make wine, Hartman hints at an uneasiness perhaps shared by many, “The one-two punch of sales plummeting and ‘farming for free’ is going to hurt many across the state, leaving some to close their doors willingly or unwillingly,” he says. “We’ll see a boom of wineries buying out of state fruit…a fear I have is that many wineries might [decide to buy wine every year]. And that would lead to a loss of identity and a loss of value to Virginia grapes and farms.”

Yet, there is clearly hope that is buttressed by both a high-quality, productive 2019 vintage and the very strong consumer support that’s been evident during months of winery closures and social distancing. Blevins, for whom the 2019 vintage was her first as a head winemaker, says they have “absolutely beautiful 2019 wines aging in the cellar that will help keep us going.” Hartman too says there is plenty of wine to be sold: “Our biggest saving grace currently is our inventory…So maybe your best defense in a bad year is to make too much in a good year.”

According to Busching, customer support of the industry has been “heard and appreciated more than folks imagine.” Robust consumer support is undeniably a very positive indicator. Barnard is adamant that 2020 represents only a small setback for an industry with strong forward momentum, “We have never faced anything like this before, but we are resilient and we will get through this, I am positive that better days and months are ahead of us.”

Culture

High time: The start of something new for Virginia winemaking

Post author By Paul Ting
Post date June 11, 2020
No Comments on High time: The start of something new for Virginia winemaking

The high altitude plantings at 12 Ridges Vineyard put the new winery in an excellent position for crafting what could be Virginia’s best sparkling wine. Courtesy 12 Ridges Vineyard

At the end of May, as Virginia businesses moved into Phase One of reopening, 12 Ridges Vineyard started welcoming visitors back to its tasting room, which overlooks, wait for it…12 acres of vineyards. Like many wineries, 12 Ridges, formerly Skylark Farm and, until now, best known as a Christmas tree farm, features incredible views, outdoor seating, and availability for weddings and events. What gives this new winery distinction is that the vines are planted at approximately 3,300 feet, making it the highest altitude vineyard site in the state of Virginia.

At higher altitudes, cooler temperatures allow grapes to express themselves differently, with generally less sugar and more acid, producing wines lower in alcohol and brighter and livelier in taste. And there are other benefits to high altitude winemaking (like more direct and concentrated sunlight, larger differences between daytime and nighttime temperatures, and slopes allowing cool air and water to drain), but there are also challenges. Some sites are on the edge of being too cold for vines to grow. And steep slopes can make farming difficult, requiring manual labor and increasing costs.

Still, it may be worth the risk. Joy Ting (this writer’s wife), research enologist and coordinator of the Winemakers Research Exchange, explains, “Virginia is a big state and we are still a wine region that is exploring as we evolve and mature. Are we planting in the right places? Are we ignoring areas that don’t fit preconceived notions and missing out on quality wine?”

Jake Busching, who has grown grapes in Virginia for over 20 years, was responsible for planting 12 Ridges. He’s also the consultant at Stone Mountain Vineyards, where he was hired to replant its vineyards in 2017. Stone Mountain sits at an elevation of 1,750 feet and was initially planted in the mid-1990s with French varieties, the fashion at the time. Some of these did well, but others struggled in the cooler climate. So Busching worked with Stone Mountain owners Jim and Deanna Gephart to put in pinot noir and pinot gris, varieties known to thrive in cooler conditions.

Busching says, “I’ve been steadfast about not putting red grapes (cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot) above that. But at that elevation, as Ankida Ridge has proven, you can do pinot noir…and chardonnay is beautiful.”

Also at 1,750 feet, Ankida Ridge has earned a reputation for perhaps the best pinot noir in Virginia. Owners Christine and Dennis Vrooman, who first planted in 2008, recognized their site would be well-suited to pinot noir and chardonnay. 12 Ridges owner Craig Colberg draws inspiration from them, “I’ve tasted pinot noir from Ankida. It’s excellent. I aspire to pinot like theirs.”

For 12 Ridges, Busching worked with Colberg to develop a vision of what would be possible at his extremely high site. Busching focused on cold-hardy varieties like chardonnay, pinot gris, riesling, and pinot noir, and he says he planted intentionally for sparkling wine. Most agree sparkling wine has great potential for Virginia, and Busching sees it as a unique opportunity for 12 Ridges. “Sparkling wine could be a game changer because it’s a largely untapped market with high consumer demand,” he says. “12 Ridges has the potential to be the best sparkling wine in Virginia.”

Among those on Colberg’s team are winemaker Ben Jordan, whose labels include Early Mountain Vineyards, Lightwell Survey, and his family’s Midland Construction. In addition, Tim Jordan, who grows grapes on the Jordan family farm, will be the vineyard manager going forward. Jordan says he embraces the challenge of learning about growing at 12 Ridges. “What remains to be seen is whether they are too high and too exposed to winter cold…What ripens and when it ripens will be fun to find out.”

Busching similarly notes the unique challenge of the site, requiring cold-weather vineyard management in winter but hot-weather management in summer. For example, soil is mounded up around the vines in winter to protect them, a process that is reversed in summer, when rainfall and humidity require disease prevention and, despite the shorter growing season, there is still vigorous growth from the fertile soil that requires careful pruning.

Colberg seems well-informed about both the risks and rewards. “It’s my goal to become the premier cool climate vineyard in the state,” he says. I think there is a demand for something that is still high-quality, but a different experience on the palate.”

Meanwhile, Christine Vrooman at Ankida Ridge is advocating for a new American Viticultural Area to recognize higher altitude vineyards in Virginia. If she succeeds, this would be the first new AVA approved in Virginia since 2012. Vrooman is modeling her plan after the Mendocino Ridge AVA in California, which has boundaries defined by elevation. It includes only vineyards higher than 1,200 feet and therefore currently holds the distinction as the only non-contiguous AVA. The AVA Vrooman is proposing would be the second.

As the Virginia wine industry matures, there are risks and unknowns, but there is also vision for the future and a desire for the new and unique. Here’s hoping that the combination of high altitudes, better winegrowing techniques, and a willingness to take risks results in another exciting chapter for Virginia wine.

Tags 12 Ridges Vineyard, Ankida Ridge, Local wine, Stone Mountain Vineyards, VIrginia Wine, wine

Culture

Pressing on: Virginia wineries adapt and hope in response to COVID-19

Post author By Paul Ting
Post date April 29, 2020
1 Comment on Pressing on: Virginia wineries adapt and hope in response to COVID-19

Veritas Vineyard and Winery is just one of the many local winemaking operations that had to pivot quickly to sell wines online and curbside due to the coronavirus’ effect. Courtesy subject

For many, COVID-19 has made it feel as if time is standing still. For local wineries, however, the early- April budbreak marks the start of the growing season and serves as a hopeful, but also stark, reminder that the cycle of winemaking continues forward. Planning, attention, and hard work is required now if wine is to be made in 2020.

In large part, Virginia’s wineries are small, family businesses and face significant financial challenges during this unprecedented time. Not only must they pay immediate expenses associated with taking care of vineyards, but revenue generated now is required to pay for the harvest and winemaking in the fall.

The wine industry is inextricably intertwined with the restaurant, event, and tourism industries, and springtime in Virginia is usually a peak time for these businesses. With tourism down an estimated 78 percent versus last year, tasting rooms closed, and weddings canceled or postponed, wineries have been forced to move away from their reliable business models.

George Hodson, general manager of Veritas Vineyard and Winery and president/co-owner of Flying Fox Vineyard & Winery describes the Virginia wine industry as “foundationally built on the wine-tourism model. We have set ourselves up to sell wine at full retail out of our tasting rooms.” He believes the industry must adapt, but that it’s nimble enough to do so. Like many wineries, Veritas and Flying Fox have pivoted from on-premises sales and consumption to online sales and delivering the product to consumers in their homes. “We have been forced to completely restructure our sales model.”

Rather than seeing this as a temporary or undesirable response, Hodson believes changes wineries are making now will position them well for the future. “I actually believe that this will be a catalyst event that will change the way people purchase wine. People have been trending toward increased online purchasing, this is going to accelerate that curve exponentially.”

Elizabeth Smith, who owns Afton Mountain Vineyards with her husband, Tony, has also turned to online sales. Their winery had an e-commerce website in the works for several months, but COVID-19 served as an impetus to move forward quickly. In addition, they added wines from Monticello Wine Company, a second label intended only for distribution, to the website. Smith describes online sales as a lifesaver for their business. Like many wineries, they are offering free shipping and curbside pickup.

Afton Mountain usually has about 95 percent of sales go through its tasting room, but going forward Smith says “we will continue with online sales and increase the number of states with which we register to ship wine.” The rapid launch of their e-commerce platform has necessitated a lot of troubleshooting and revamping of operations, but has also allowed them to learn the new system quickly.

In the vineyards, physical distancing is relatively easy because there is a lot of open space, but there are other factors that impact employees. Smith says that normally they would hire extra crews to help with the workload, but this year they are only using core workers for both financial and safety reasons. In addition, they’ve asked their employees to stop working other jobs and limit their social interactions when at home.

In the winery, distancing has delayed bottling in some places, as bottling lines often require workers to stand side-by-side for long periods. While most wineries have not yet addressed what things will look like during harvest, they stress that winery work can continue with proper protocols in place.

Some, like Benoit Pineau, winemaker at Pollak Vineyards, do not anticipate many changes. He says they have a very small team that, through staff education and common sense, can continue to work without risk. However, similar to Afton Mountain, they are asking employees to be responsible with personal time. Pineau refers to the ideal scenario as “home-work-home” with limited or no social activity.

Amidst all of this, it’s obvious there is still great optimism for the 2020 vintage and for the future of Virginia wine. Hodson sees the response from the state government as an important measuring stick. He explains that the governor, secretary of agriculture, and Virginia ABC have worked hard to aid the industry. “Postponing tax payments, easing restrictions, allowing modified operations…we simply cannot ask for more support than we have received,” says Hodson. “This is a signal of the importance of our industry on a state level, which is also a signal of the maturation of our industry.” It’s estimated that the Virginia wine industry has an annual economic impact of over a billion dollars, and the state clearly recognizes that.

Perhaps an even greater cause for hope is consumer support. With online sales and curbside pickups, many wineries across the state are reporting that sales are exceeding their expectations. Hodson describes the response as “overwhelmingly positive,” and is excited about what it indicates. The fact that customers are responding with dollars “tells me our community is supportive of our industry. Ultimately, we are seen as integral members of our community and people want to make sure we are around when this all ends.”