The classic Cuban with ham, seasoned pork, Swiss cheese, pickles, and mustard is one of Guajiros Miami Eatery’s most popular menu items. Staff photo
By Chris Martin
One of Charlottesville’s most buzzed-about restaurants in recent years, Guajiros Miami Eatery, arrived on West Main Street through a leap of faith, a series of coincidences, and, most importantly, a love of a mother’s recipes.
“We have been dreaming of hospitality,” says the family-run business’ patriarch Harvey Mayorga Sr. “I have always wanted to be a hospitality guy after working in finance. In Nicaragua I had a bar, a club, a band, a disco in the Cayman Islands, and my kids worked in hotels and high-end restaurants.”
The Mayorgas are Nicaraguan in nationality and Miami-an by American dream. Three brothers run the restaurant day-to-day: Danilo Mayorga takes care of the front of the house, Harvey Mayorga Jr. curates cocktails, and Sebastian Mayorga runs the kitchen. Their father, Harvey Sr., keeps the books while mother, Jacqueline Roque, contributes family recipes—dishes she served to her children for years are now on the restaurant’s menu. Sometimes, you’ll see sisters Bessie and Dora, as well as Harvey Jr.’s wife Carla Chavez-Mayorga with their children, littlest Harvey and Eva. (C-VILLE knows this big, friendly family well: This writer is a cousin of the Mayorgas, too.)
Guajiros has been a family thing every step of the way. Harvey Jr. immigrated to America with $300 in his pocket, staying with an aunt and uncle in Florida, and learning to speak English. His first bartending shift was thrust upon him after two years in the U.S., while he was taking shelter from a storm at a hotel. “A hurricane came through Miami, and the hotel was full,” says Harvey Jr. “I had no clue how to make a single drink.”
The Mayorga family serves a melting pot of cuisine, vocabulary, and culture at Guajiros Miami Eatery. Supplied photo
His parents were visiting at the time, and got to witness his initial restaurant gig. “It was so overwhelming I couldn’t remember who ordered what,” he says. “I would make the drinks and blank. My dad, who was always paying attention to everything, was like, ‘he wants the beer, he wants the margarita, he wants the bloody mary.’”
When Harvey Sr.’s leukemia recurred after a four-year remission and he couldn’t find treatment, he and Jacqueline left Nicaragua to join Harvey Jr. in the U.S.—with Dora, Danilo, and Sebastian in tow. The children spoke no English when they arrived in Miami, and Sebastian says that at 12 years old, “Out of my crew of 10 friends, every single one of them was a different nationality.”
For the Mayorgas, food was a way of celebrating that diversity.
The brothers speak fondly of fritangas, Nicaraguan-style buffets that serve heaps of classics like gallo pinto and queso frito alongside carne asada, pork, and chicken. “Seeing all that culture being shared in one spot in fritangas—not only Cuban cuisine, not only Nicaraguan cuisine—was mind-blowing for me,” says Harvey Jr. “I don’t want to be labeled as a Nicaraguan restaurant because we want to have the melting pot of cultures.”
The family’s restaurant operation in Charlottesville began at a spot off Route 29, when Carla pushed Harvey Jr. to open the first Guajiros. “I called Danilo, I told him we found a place to open a restaurant,” Harvey Jr. says. “Danilo said, ‘I’ll quit my job the day you sign the lease.’” Two weeks and a day later, Danilo was in Charlottesville.
Once they had their initial location, the Mayorga brothers selected dishes they knew best—the ones cooked for them over the years by their mother. “All [recipes] are mine, and Harvey has improved a few,” says Jacqueline. “This is what we used to eat; we had five kids and had 11 people in our house. I had to make food that could feed all of them.”
Harvey Sr. fills with pride as he watches customers eat the same dishes his family lived on. “We are so thankful for the people and the community,” he says. “I see that young people, families, locals, students, and people visiting Charlottesville come to Guajiros. Their support has been amazing through these hard times in COVID.”
In working together, the brothers have discovered the collaboration that defines a successful kitchen, as they push and hustle in tandem. “Within these walls, it’s our way of talking to each other and showing our feelings,” says Harvey Jr.
For Sebastian, it’s also a way to define yourself within a large family. “Guajiros is my brother’s dream, and I found a facet of myself as I am finding out that I can cook and lead a kitchen,” he says. “We know that this place is a way to express ourselves to one another without even talking.”
Our sources say Guajiros Miami Eatery serves the best Cuban sandwich in town.
staff photo
In an ongoing effort to support local dining establishments during the pandemic, our writers have been enjoying a variety of takeout meals from some of their favorite restaurants. Contribute to this ongoing series by sending your own delicious experiences to living@c-ville.com.
Tonic
One of my favorite pre-COVID pastimes was seeking out the latest in local cuisine. While I’ve made an effort to support a variety of area businesses and eateries during the past several months, I’ve primarily frequented my favorite spots.
Enter Tonic, a new-to-me restaurant that has reinstated the thrill of discovery into my quarantine routine. Opened in August, Tonic has pandemic dining down pat. It offers socially distanced dining in a spacious outdoor seating area complete with a full bar and a seamless takeout option. The staff is helpful and friendly, and the hand-written specials menu adds a personal touch. The catfish features lightly battered filets paired with a unique huckleberry aioli—it’s easily one of the best dishes I’ve had in Charlottesville (so good, I ordered it twice!). Another highlight is the pickled shrimp Johnny cake, which is a Southern food trifecta of cornbread cake, tangy shrimp, and aioli. A trip to Tonic is not complete without the restaurant’s namesake: Try the signature house cocktail composed of Vitae Spirits’ gin and housemade tonic. —Desiré Moses
Guajiros Miami Eatery
I once lived in Miami, and for years I’ve missed the Cuban food and coffee that was woven into the culture. Guajiros is here to fill that void. Definitely the best Cuban sandwich in town, but don’t stop there. Owned by brothers from Miami, Guajiros’ menu has all of the things I miss: café con leche (dark-roasted sweet coffee), pastelitos (pastries with guava paste), ham croquetas, plantain chips, and a full range of sandwiches. Delicioso! —Paul Ting
Otto Turkish Street Food
If you’re craving fast casual but want to eat local, then Otto Turkish Street Food is the place to hit. Think Cava/Chipotle style, but with kebab. You’ll find bowls, wraps, and sandwiches, along with excellent sides. I opted for a bowl with chicken doner, and they did not skimp on the protein—my eyes widened at the plentiful scoops that went into my bowl. The doner kebab is cooked on a vertical rotisserie, then sliced into flavorful thin shavings. (Vegetarians will be pleased to know there’s also falafel.) Toppings include Mediterranean standards like hummus, cabbage, cucumbers, and greens, and more unusual options such as fried eggplant, beet salad, and celery labneh dip. I highly recommend the fried eggplant, and I was impressed with the celery dip, and wish I had asked for a second scoop. I found the tzatziki and arabesk hot sauce to be an ideal combination of mild and spicy.
I also enjoyed a side of the rosemary fries, which complemented the unique Turkish flavors of my bowl. The plentiful toppings and protein make this a new favorite in my rotation of fast-casual weeknight dinners. —Madison McNamee
Café Frank
Will Richey and Jose De Brito have teamed up again at Café Frank. Chef De Brito earned a James Beard award nomination during the pair’s previous partnership at The Alley Light, so expectations are high.
Prior to a full opening, the focus was on to-go entrées of classic, time-consuming French recipes such as choucroute, paella, and cassoulet. The paella was a perfectly executed dish of chicken, shrimp, mussels, and well-spiced rice. It has me eager to try the other options. —Paul Ting
Vision BBQ
There’s certainly no shortage of barbecue joints in the Charlottesville area, but Vision proves there’s still something to be said for doing things the good ol’ fashioned way—no chemical starters, no gas, no electric.
I sampled Vision’s specialty sandwich, The Hot Mess, as well as the standard for any quality BBQ spot, the pulled-pork platter. The pulled pork was slightly fatty, but overall not too dry, and it was complemented by tangy North Carolina vinegar sauce. The Hot Mess was a truly glorious experience. Though the spongy sub roll left something to be desired, the flavorful pimento, the light heat of the peppers, and the fall-apart brisket were a combination perfect enough to warrant a return visit. —Will Ham
Guajiros Miami Eatery is on the move from its Woodbrook location to 817 W. Main St., the former home of Parallel 38. Look forward to authentic Cuban and Latin American dishes such as pressed sandwiches, Venezuelan empanadas, and lots of plantains, plus a hearty breakfast menu that’s served all day. Order ahead at guajiros.net or call 465-2108.
Butchering with Boo
If your dream date includes butchery, cookery, and a distinct lack of tomfoolery, hold on to your hats (and knives). JM Stock Provisions on West Main recently announced the return of its pig butchering classes, where you’ll learn to break down a whole pig, and put it all on the table. Tickets, sold in pairs, cost $200 per couple. Next class is December 2.
Zoomsgiving
With the COVID-19 pandemic still raging, it looks like we’re going to have to get together apart for Thanksgiving this year. So who’s gonna make the gravy? Lucky for us, several area restaurants are offering prepared, take ‘n’ bake meals. Boar’s Head Inn is cooking up Thanksgiving dinners for $25 each; The Ivy Inn’s takeout turkey meal for two goes for $100; and Feast! gives you “everything but the bird” for around $75, with vegetarian alternatives available. The Catering Outfit fills its Thanksgiving food box with a heritage black turkey plus traditional favorites, feeding four for $225. The Blue Ridge Café is serving up four-courses to go, as well as in-house dinner reservations from noon-4pm on Thanksgiving Day. And Moe’s BBQ will smoke a turkey and spiral you a ham, along with other catering options, at its two locations.
Dairy buzz
Dairy Market announced several new tenants: Bee Conscious Baking Company’s Alexis and Patrick Strasser purchased their 24-acre Goochland farm in 2019, and say their first storefront will focus on sustainability and conscious eating. From The Wine Guild of Charlottesville comes Springhouse Sundries, a hub for wine, beer, and food pairings. And Little Manila food truck chef Fernando Dizon will dish up homemade Filipino specialties at Manila Street, where you can dig into spring rolls, pork belly, and pancit noodles—recipes that have been passed down through generations to find us here in Charlottesville. Dairy Market is slated to open before year’s end, with hours from 8am-9pm on weekdays, and 8am-10pm on weekends.
A favorite among Tavola regulars, pappardelle alla ragu, braises for hours—but it’s relatively simple to make and the wait pays off big-time! Photo: Tom McGovern
Few things are better in the cold of winter than spending time in the kitchen, whether you’re whipping up a tried-and-true family recipe or one from a new-to-you cookbook just waiting to have its pages earmarked and columns scribbled in. It’s all about comfort food at this time of year, of course, so we’ve rounded up five go-to dishes from local chefs: hearty pasta, soup with a “secret” ingredient (until now, anyway), a spin on Colombian street food, and more. These meals are best enjoyed with a candle lit or a fire roaring, and if you happen to be wearing your pajamas, we promise not to tell. When we say comfort, we mean it! Happy cooking!
Pappardelle alla ragu
Shown above; from Michael Keaveny, chef and co-owner, Tavola
Good news, Tavola fans. Charlottesville’s favorite Italian restaurant recently released a cookbook with recipes for some of its classic menu items, complete with recommended wine and music pairings. Compiled by Michael Keaveny (who co-owns the restaurant with C-VILLE Weekly arts editor Tami Keaveny), Tavola: 10 Greatest Hits—Music and Food is available through the restaurant’s website (tavolavino.com) and at New Dominion Bookshop on the Downtown Mall.
Serves four
Fresh pappardelle pasta ingredients (yields 8 ounces)
6 egg yolks
3/4 cup 00 semolina flour
1/3 cup No.1 semolina flour
1/8 tsp. salt
Instructions
Sift flour onto the work surface and make a well in the center. Add the egg yolks into the well, then slowly incorporate them into the flour with a fork. Keep going until the dough is smooth. When the dough comes together into a ball, knead it for about 10 minutes until it’s a cohesive, smooth mass. Cover with a damp towel, and let it rest for half an hour. Divide the dough into two balls. Flatten them slightly and dust with flour. Using a pasta machine on the widest setting, feed the dough through three times. Adjust to lowest setting and put the dough through again. The sheet should be thin. Fold the sheet over three or four times for cutting, then slice by hand to inch-wide noodles. Unroll to separate and loosen before cooking.
Pork ragu ingredients
4 lbs. pork shoulder
1 medium onion
1 large carrot
6 cloves garlic
3 oz. tomato paste
6 oz. dry red wine
2 28 oz. cans San Marzano tomatoes
3 sprigs thyme
3 sprigs sage
8 basil leaves, chopped
1/4 tsp. toasted, ground fennel seed
Extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper
Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
Instructions
Cut pork shoulder into one- to two-inch inch chunks. Season with salt and pepper and brown in a large sauté pan over medium to high heat. Remove the pork from the pan, add two tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil, onions, carrots, and garlic, and cook until vegetables are soft. Pour the tomatoes from the can into a bowl and crush by hand, removing undesirable pieces. In the sauté pan, add tomato paste, cook for two minutes, then deglaze with red wine and add canned tomatoes. Season with salt and pepper, and add herbs. Slow cook until the pork is tender, about three to four hours. Cook pasta al dente. Strain, add desired amount of pork ragu to noodles, stir together to coat. Serve with grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, sprinkle with chopped basil.
The Alley Light’s artichoke gratin is savory and satisfying, but not too filling. Photo: Tom McGovern
Artichoke gratin
From Robin McDaniel, chef and owner, The Alley Light
This simple, satisfying dish is traditional in the Provence region of southern France—and a favorite on the menu at The Alley Light, especially during cold spells. The light flavors of the artichoke and lemon balance with the richness of the bacon and Parmesan cheese.
Serves six to eight
Ingredients
3 slices bacon, coarsely chopped
5 pearl onions, quartered
1 medium shallot, diced
2-3 cloves of garlic, minced
4-6 fresh artichokes (frozen artichoke hearts may be substituted; Trader Joe’s are good)
2-3 carrots, peeled, quartered lengthwise, and cut into 2- to 3-inch pieces
1 bay leaf and a few sprigs thyme, tied together with kitchen twine
Juice of one lemon
½ cup white wine
32 oz. unsalted chicken or vegetable stock, warmed
Extra-virgin olive oil
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Grated Parmesan cheese, for topping
Instructions
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Warm stock in sauce pan. (If using fresh artichokes, remove all outer leaves, peel stems and cut off bottoms, scoop out the “hairy” part of the hearts, cut lengthwise into quarters or eighths, blanch or steam until tender but firm, and then set aside to cool.) Over medium heat, cook bacon in Dutch oven (or other dish that can be transferred from stovetop to oven) until rendered but not crispy. Add onions, shallot, and garlic. Cook, stirring frequently, until translucent. Add artichokes, carrots, and herbs. Drizzle with olive oil. Add lemon juice and wine. When carrots begin to soften, add stock, salt, and pepper. Reduce liquid until a few tablespoons remain. Top with grated Parmesan, and then bake for about 12 minutes or until warmed through.
Duner’s chef Laura Fonner’s soup is a spicy-sweet one-pot wonder. Photo: Tom McGovern
Chicken, corn, and tortilla soup
From Laura Fonner, executive chef, Duner’s
You may be skeptical when a chef invokes a “secret” or “magic” ingredient, but Fonner swears by Lizano sauce, a Costa Rican condiment, in this recipe. “It’s spicy, sweet, and tangy—basically, magic in a bottle.”
Serves six to 10
Ingredients
3 cups roasted, boneless chicken thighs (or the meat of a whole rotisserie chicken) cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 red bell pepper, stem and seeds removed; diced
2 stalks celery, diced
1 yellow onion, diced
2 jalapeños, stems and seeds removed; diced
4 ears corn, cooked, kernels removed; cobs set aside for stock
In a large soup pot, sauté onions, garlic, peppers, celery, and corn until tender. Season with salt and pepper. Add tomatoes, chicken stock, and corn cobs. Bring to a boil, lower heat, and simmer for 45 minutes. Discard corn cobs. Stir in heavy cream, chicken, cilantro, and Lizano sauce, and simmer 20 minutes longer. Add tortilla strips, stir, turn off heat, and cover pot. Let rest for 10 minutes. Stir and serve immediately.
What would TJ do? Maybe like this, a little sparkling wine with his macaroni and cheese. Photo: Tom McGovern
Monticello macaroni and cheese
From Shelby Poulin, chef, Monticello Farm Table
Monticello Farm Table, formerly the Café at Monticello, uses high-quality cheeses (including Parmesan, a favorite of Thomas Jefferson’s) to create a unique take on this iconic comfort food. Sodium citrate in the recipe is a natural emulsifier that replaces a cream-based sauce, making this dish a snap.
Serves 10 to 12
Ingredients
3.5 cups water (for cheese sauce)
1.16 oz. or 33 g. sodium citrate, weighed
12 oz. Cabot very sharp clothbound cheddar (often also sealed in wax)
12 oz. traditional Gouda
8 oz. Parmigiana-Reggiano cheese
3 lbs. dry macaroni noodles
Instructions
Grate all cheeses. Bring water to a boil. Add sodium citrate. Gradually whisk in grated cheeses until melted and smooth. Pour through a fine mesh strainer to remove any lumps. Bring five-gallon pot of salted water to boil. Cook noodles until al dente, strain, add immediately to sauce, and stir.
This dish is as simple to make and as satisfying as a hot shower after building a snowman. Photo: Tom McGovern
Maicitos con pollo
From Harvey and Danilo Mayorga, owners, Guajiros Miami Eatery
The name of this dish translates simply to sweet corn with chicken. It’s a popular street food in Colombia. Here, the Mayorga brothers, whose Cuban-style restaurant is on 29 North, adapt the recipe for you to make at home.
Serves two
Ingredients
1 cup boneless grilled breast, chopped
1 oz. each, extra-virgin olive oil and butter
1 cup sweet corn kernels
½ cup blended cheese, shredded
2 oz. milk or half and half
Lay’s potato chips for topping
Pink sauce:
1 cup mayonnaise
1 cup ketchup
2 oz. lime juice
1 oz. hot sauce
Garlic mayo:
1 cup mayo
2 tbsp. garlic, finely diced
Salt to taste
Cilantro crema:
1 cup of sour cream
1 oz. fresh lime juice
1/2 bunch of cilantro leaves, chopped, stems discarded
Salt to taste
Instructions
In three separate bowls, whisk together ingredients for each sauce. Heat oil and butter in a frying pan, add chicken, and cook over medium-high heat for three to five minutes. Add corn and heat through, about three minutes. Add milk and cheese and mix well with a wooden spoon until cheese is melted and all ingredients incorporated. Serve the mixture in a bowl, top with crushed Lay’s chips, and drizzle with sauces. Garnish with chopped cilantro if desired.
Danilo and Harvey Mayorga are bringing Cuban food—and some Miami/Cuban flair—to Charlottesville with their Guajiros Miami Eatery, which will open soon on Seminole Trail in the Woodbrook Shopping Center. Photo by Eze Amos
Proper Cuban food has been in short supply in the Charlottesville area, but that’s about to change when Guajiros Miami Eatery opens its doors in the next few weeks.
The restaurant is the brainchild of Miami transplant Harvey Mayorga, who, with his brother, Danilo, plans to bring a bit of Little Havana to the city, on Seminole Trail in the Woodbrook Shopping Center.
Mayorga said he and his wife, who came here to work at UVA about a year and a half ago, quickly noticed the paucity of Latin American food other than tacos or pupusas.
“We saw that there was a need for something different,” he says. After seeing the available space, Mayorga reached out to his brother, a restaurateur in Miami.
Mayorga says they’ll be serving their favorite Cuban food, with a bit of Miami/Cuban flair.
“There is a culture of ‘cafecito’ in Miami, where everyone on their commute stops at a ventana, or window, gets a Cuban toast, a croquette, and some café con leche before heading to work,” he says. “It’s a social event, even if it is for five or 10 minutes. We want to offer that.”
The brothers plan to start with breakfast and lunch service. Menu features will include breakfast sandwiches on Cuban bread, medialunas (crescent rolls), and a Cuban sandwich, as well as espresso, lattes, and café con leche. Mayorga said he hopes to introduce the Cuban colada (a multi-shot cup of sweet Cuban coffee) here as well. While they don’t yet have a liquor license, the plan is to eventually feature classic rum-based and Cuban cocktails with all-natural ingredients, including mojitos, daiquiris, el presidente cocktails, and rum old fashioneds.
What’s old is new again
Renovations are moving forward at the Boar’s Head’s Old Mill Room, which will reopen in January as the Mill Room.
“Walking in [to the new restaurant] will be very visually different,” says Joe Hanning, marketing and communications manager for the Boar’s Head. “It will still have the historic wooden beams and the same ambiance, but we’re opening it up to bring natural light in. All three seating areas will be combined as one and will be all brand new.”
And with the changes to the restaurant come some innovations that will put a 21st-century twist on the historic Trout House building behind the Mill Room.
“This was an historic shelter where long ago people would pick the trout they wanted for dinner—literally farm to table,” Hanning says. “We’re redesigning that to put in a hydroponic garden from Babylon Farms. We’ll be the only ones in North America to have self-sustained hydroponic gardens, where we’ll be producing our own leafy greens for the Mill Room.”
Executive chef Dale Ford is working on a new menu for the four-diamond restaurant, and conjuring up expansive plans for the hydroponic garden, all while tending to 20,000 honey bees up the hill from the Trout House. You can be sure that hyperlocal honey will be harvested and incorporated into the new menu.
Mourning a food community leader
A longtime philanthropic mainstay in the Charlottesville food community passed away suddenly last week.
Lisa Reeder, food and farm access coordinator for the Local Food HUB, had devoted nearly 20 years to working with and around food in central Virginia, the organization said. The Local Food HUB is a nonprofit organization that partners with Virginia farmers to increase community access to area food, and provides support services, infrastructure, and market opportunities that connect people with food grown close to home. The organization said Reeder had spearheaded its Fresh Farmacy program and oversaw a number of other community programs and partnerships.
In a statement, the Food HUB said Reeder was “passionate about all things food and agriculture, and found many ways to channel that passion into action.”
“She understood the challenges of farming, and worked to bring needed resources to our partner farms,” the statement continued. “She made a mean BLT sandwich, and her contributions to staff potluck meals were unmatched. Even in the face of challenging health issues, her upbeat spirit and dedication to her friends, family, and work never wavered. Lisa will be greatly, greatly missed, but we will carry her example and her legacy with us with every step we take toward a healthier, more equitable food system.”
Feast! co-owner Kate Collier says Reeder’s loss will be felt far and wide.
“She’s always so strong, positive, and in the moment, helping others, putting friends first, feeding those who need it most, and spreading her beauty and light all around,” Collier says. “She was one of this community’s great women in food.”
