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Culture Food & Drink

Small bites

Who moved my wine and cheese?

The Wine Guild of Charlottesville has officially moved into a new location at 600 Concord Ave., next door to Ace Biscuit & BBQ. For years, the Guild has been Charlottesville’s go-to spot for its finely curated selection of wine and beer, acting as a personal sommelier to its members and retail customers for over a decade. Owners Priscilla and Will Curley have expanded the wine bar, and say traditional Wednesday tastings will continue, plus an educational series launching in the new year. “The additional space means we can offer more interesting wine from around the world,” says Will, along with “a small kitchen serving great drinking snacks: cheese and meat plates, olives, almonds, and plenty of tinned fish.” Check them out at wineguildcville.com.

French connections

Wine from Charlottesville is journeying further than just across town. Local winemaker Michael Shaps recently presented his wine brands at the Paris home of the U.S. ambassador to France for a gathering of 400 guests. “It means a lot to me to receive such positive feedback from numerous dignitaries at such a historic and prominent place,” says Shaps. “I like to think that Jefferson, who I believe was as enamored of French wines as much as I am, would appreciate this celebration of the French and American collaboration of wine.”

Cheffing to the Max on HBO

Charlottesville’s outstanding food scene got some national attention recently when chef Antwon Brinson of Culinary Concepts AB was chosen to compete in “The Big Brunch,” a new reality TV show by Dan Levy and the creators of “Schitt’s Creek.” The competition began streaming November 10 on HBO Max, with 10 guests chosen for their cooking prowess, compelling stories, and a chance to take home $300 thousand for their individual cause. While we won’t reveal the ending for you late streamers (okay, one spoiler: Brinson is a cinnamon bun), we can say the show is enticingly shot, drool-provoking, and reveals the deep emotional core at the center of good food. With his Culinary Concepts, Brinson offers career training and life skills to underserved individuals who hope to break into the hospitality industry, all while building community and promoting unity.

Twinkle and fade

After just four years, Little Star restaurant, known for its contemporary Spanish fusion cuisine, has closed its doors. After chef and owner Ryan Collins stepped back from the restaurant earlier this year, Little Star announced it was closing permanently on November 5, leaving foodies around town mourning the loss of  signatures dishes such as the Shibbity Dibbities, Pan Tomate with Manchego, and the Grilled Flank Steak. 

Popped up

Popitos Wood Fired Pizza started in a backyard in Forest Lakes when Lauren and Ray Zayas began serving family and friends at small gatherings. The pizza was so popular that they expanded into a mobile kitchen, and estimate that they served over 1,500 pizzas at various music festivals, farmers’ markets, and school fundraisers. Now they are quick-firing pies at a new brick-and-mortar location in Rio Hill Shopping Center, next to Kroger. Pop by for a traditional margherita, the Fun Guy with pesto drizzle, or the Hot Pig with bacon and jalapeños—and don’t forget an arancini from the snack menu.

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Arts Culture

Shared experience

Untrained and subject to the dual, almost insurmountable, constraints of economics and Jim Crow, the artists on display in “Of Another Canon: African American Outsider Art” at the Jefferson School African American Heritage Center possessed a creative fire. Despite cruelly stacked odds, Mozell S. Benson, Rudolph Bostic, Bessie Harvey, Anderson Johnson, Mary Proctor, Bernice Sims, Jimmy Lee Sudduth, Annie Mural Tolliver, Mose Ernest Tolliver (aka Mose T), and Ruby Williams persevered in their art, creating work that brims with raw authenticity, joy, and passion.

With the show’s title, the curators place the work, from the collection of Richard and Ellie Wilson, in its own alternate, yet equally valid canon to that of Western art history. They also raise questions about the term “outsider art.”

While it’s a generally accepted way to refer to art made by self-taught artists who operate outside the traditional art world, in this case, the work speaks not just to the individual artist’s experience, but to similar experiences shared by a large group of people. It was a 1982 exhibition at the Corcoran Gallery, “Black Folk Art in America, 1930–1980,” that played a significant role in elevating the art of self-taught African American artists and creating a market for their work. Nearly all the artists represented in this show are now featured in major museum collections. Mose T is widely known, and Williams, who sold her paintings off the back of a truck along with her produce, was the subject of an extensive New York Times obituary in August of this year. With this recognition, I wonder if the artists benefited in any substantial way from their artwork. It’s likely they did not, but it gives me hope that other, similar artists coming up behind them will.

Entering the gallery space, the eye is immediately snagged by Williams’ electric “Piano Playing Cow I Give Better Buttermilk.” I’m betting Picasso, who reputedly once said, “It took me four years to paint like Raphael, but a lifetime to paint like a child,” would envy this odd-footed orange bovine sporting black and white keys running along its back and a toothy, mask-like face. Nearly as riveting, “Ms Bonnie Bon Bonnie with Purse” is a simple composition made exceptional by her weird and wonderful hands.

Mose T, Sudduth, and Johnson share a similar approach. For the most part, they rely on vibrant color and bold shapes to render figures against flat expanses of pigment or just plain plywood—as in the case of “Self-Portrait with Willie Mae.” T’s sophisticated sense of color and composition is laid bare in this painting and in his “Portrait of a Woman with Baby.”  A similar sensibility is echoed in the work of Sudduth, who used a combination of house paint and mud from his yard to create his jaunty self-portrait, and his likeness of a girl sporting a stylish hat and holding a violin. Annie Mural Tolliver (T’s daughter) and Sims take this approach and expand it into spiritual and narrative directions. Tolliver’s stylized “Garden of Eden” employs a dramatic palette and striking arrangement of forms, while Sims’ “Edmund Pettus Bridge,” painted from memory (as was all her work) with childlike simplicity, is made more powerful knowing the artist was an eyewitness to the seminal event.

Harvey’s “Garden of Eden,” the only sculpture in the show, is made from a tree root. The label describes how root sculpting plays an important role in African American vernacular art. Here, Harvey daubs paint across the surface, and uses the longest root for her serpent. It seems to veer like a malevolent tube man toward the viewer. Harvey takes advantage of a knob in the wood to form the nose, adding stuffed animal eyes surrounded by painted lashes, a row of pearls for teeth, and a jaunty orange earring. This almost human face is creepy, thanks largely to the teeth, with a totemic quality that suggests a spiritual purpose.

Bostic’s “Egyptian Scene” and “Garden of Eden” take us even further into visionary territory. The first, a tondo painted on the cover of a flour container (Bostic worked at a baking company), is studded with Egyptian iconography that identifies the reclining figure as a dying pharaoh. Bostic mixes his colors to add volume and highlights, and to produce a range of hues that tend toward the richer jewel tones. Indeed, the works, with figures outlined in a Sharpie, resemble stained glass. The second painting, on a rectangular piece of cardboard, features an ornate composition, chockablock with the wonderfully rendered animal and human cast of the Judeo-Christian origin story. Bostic tops it off effectively by creating a trompe-l’oeil gilded frame with yellow squiggles on a black border.

Other artists also used materials that were at hand and free—odd bits of plywood, leftover house paint, a tree root, or worn-out clothes. Though employed out of necessity, these humble materials have a grittiness that add both visual and emotional weight to the work. In addition to information about the works, the accompanying labels also provide brief accounts of the artists’ lives. They were universally challenging, rife with enormous obstacles. And yet, from these terrible circumstances art was produced—a vital outlet for the artists and a record of their existence. It’s an extraordinary testament to the creative drive and to the resiliency of the human spirit.

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Arts Culture

Pick: Holiday Music Series

Seasonal classics are revitalized with dazzling virtuosity and merry fervor at the Quirk’s Holiday Music Series. In this weekly installment, violinists Minchae Kim and SoHyun Ko, violist Jerome McCoy, and cellist Dilshod Narzillaev of the Heifetz International Music Institute perform a seasonal program. Highlights include glittering solo pieces, Baroque gems, chamber masterworks, and some special Yuletide delights.

Thursday 12/8. Free, 6pm. Quirk Charlottesville, 499 W. Main St. quirkhotels.com

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News

House hunt

In April, Khalesha Powell received an important notice: She needed to find a new place for her family to live before her building in the South First Street public housing site is demolished and redeveloped next year. Since then, Powell, a single mother of eight children, says she has applied to live at over a dozen properties, but has been repeatedly denied, racking up hundreds of dollars in application fees.

Landlords who own three or more properties are legally required to accept housing vouchers in Virginia, but Powell says she’s been met with a variety of reasons for denial of her applications.

“I’ve been denied for credit, I’ve been denied for occupancy … they deny you for all kinds of things,” says Powell, who has lived at the 41-year-old public housing complex with her children for nine years. “Sometimes it makes you wonder if they’re denying you because they just don’t want to take the voucher.”

In documents Powell shared with C-VILLE, one property owner cited Powell’s monthly income, number of occupants, and her credit score as reasons why her application was rejected, while another cited her
credit score. Four landlords responded to her inquiry about their four- or five-bedroom rental home saying that they did not accept vouchers. 

Powell says she was originally supposed to receive a relocation voucher, which would have reimbursed her for housing application fees, and paid for her deposit and first month’s rent. But the Charlottesville Redevelopment and Housing Authority gave her a tenant-based housing choice voucher, which does not cover any of it.

“I haven’t gotten an application fee less than $50—all that adds up,” says Powell. “For me to have to come out of pocket with a lot of this stuff is crappy.”

According to CRHA executive director John Sales, the CRHA has yet to receive relocation vouchers from the U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development, so it has only been able to distribute tenant-based vouchers.

It’s also been a challenge finding a new home large enough for her family, says Powell, who currently lives in a five-bedroom unit at South First Street. The number of four- and five-bedroom rental properties is limited in Charlottesville, and some landlords would rather rent to students.

“Mostly every four- and five-bedroom that’s been listed [that accepts vouchers], I’ve applied to,” she says. “It’s a lot of getting your hopes up, then your hopes being taken down.”

Instead of a voucher, Powell was told she could move to Hardy Drive. However, around the time she was offered that option, she says her 17-year-old son was jumped by some neighborhood kids, and she did not want to put him in danger. The recent shootings on and near Hardy Drive also made her wary of moving there.

When she first began her housing search, Powell says she found one landlord who was willing to accept her voucher, but, due to delays in receiving vouchers from HUD, CRHA hadn’t given her one. Her application eventually fell through. In September, she finally received the tenant-based voucher, which is set to expire on December 22. She can then receive up to two 30-day extensions, but if she is not given additional extensions, she worries she’ll lose the voucher.

“Where is me and my children going to go if I can’t find no one to take my voucher?” she asks. 

Last year, the city broke ground on the long-awaited, multi-phase South First Street redevelopment project. Last month, residents began moving into phase one’s three new apartment buildings, featuring 63 one-, two-, and three-bedroom units. In phase two, set to begin in March or April, the 58 existing units will be replaced with 113 multi-family units, including townhouses and apartments with one to five bedrooms. The planning process for phase three, which will involve the land across the street from the original units, has not yet begun.

Sales stresses that CRHA will ensure no one is left homeless due to the public housing redevelopment. Families with housing vouchers who are unable to secure new housing will instead be moved to Hardy Drive.

Out of South First Street’s 58 families, 16 have already moved to other public housing sites, according to Sales. Forty will either be moved to the new South First Street units, or transferred to other public housing. Powell’s family is one of two who are using a voucher, and still looking for a place to accept it.

To assist voucher recipients with their housing search, CRHA has offered new landlords bonuses for accepting vouchers during the pandemic, thanks to additional HUD funding. It also plans to request city funding for landlord incentives, like those funded by Albemarle County.

Regarding voucher rejections, “if we do find out about it and feel like we can help … we do call the landlord. I’ve spoken with several landlords to try to get them to understand the type of situation we’re in,” says Sales. “But the voucher market is a private market, and we really have no control over the landlords setting their rents and requirements.”

“We really have to almost accept what we get,” he adds.

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News

In brief

Warrenton Police Department Chief Michael Kochis will be Charlottesville’s next police chief.

During the December 5 City Council meeting, interim City Manager Michael Rogers announced that he had chosen Kochis after a months-long community engagement, recruitment, and selection process led by POLIHIRE. After receiving 19 applications, Rogers formed a screening committee, which narrowed down the finalists to three candidates: Kochis, Loudoun County Sheriff’s Office Commander Easton McDonald, and CPD Captain Latroy “Tito” Durrette, who has led the department since former CPD chief RaShall Brackney’s controversial firing last fall. 

On November 28, the committee conducted final interviews with the candidates, the Police Civilian Oversight Board hosted a candidate forum, and councilors spoke again with the officers, before Rogers made his final decision. Council unanimously voted in favor of Rogers’ appointment.

Rogers said he spoke with several community organizations regarding Kochis’ track record—including Warrenton’s Black Lives Matter chapter, a Baptist church, and the local NAACP—and received “glowing reports.” Mayor Lloyd Snook also received a letter from Warrenton’s mayor, who emphasized how “well-respected” Kochis is by the town. And several law enforcement officers told Snook that Kochis, who has more than 20 years of policing experience, is “the real deal.”

Snook praised Kochis’ ability to bring stability to the CPD, which has a severe staffing shortage—before Kochis took over the WPD in 2020, the town had three chiefs in 18 months. Kochis has since filled every vacancy, recruited more women officers, and implemented a program allowing people to anonymously rate officers, among other accomplishments praised by the councilors.

Joining Monday’s meeting virtually, Kochis thanked the city for a “thoughtful and thorough” selection process.

“I know we have a lot of work to do,” said the new chief, “and I’m ready to get started.”

Kochis’ first day on the job is January 16.

County sees spike in shootings, vehicle thefts

Gang activity has caused a spike in shootings and stolen vehicles this year in Albemarle County, according to the county police department.

As of December 1, the ACPD has responded to 131 shots fired calls and investigated 96 vehicle theft cases this year—a 15 and 61 percent increase, respectively, compared to the three-year averages for the same time period. Between July and November, seven people were shot, and 29 vehicles were stolen in the county. Police have linked most of these incidents to “several groups of self-identifying gangs, comprised mostly of … middle- and high-school-aged juveniles,” reads a department press release. The ACPD has identified over 50 gang associates.

Sean Reeves. Supplied image.

The department has arrested seven unnamed juveniles and three adults in connection with these crimes: Meleak Domorion Clark, 19, of Farmville; Devontae Markel Johnson, 18, of Albemarle County; and Jalonnie Antonio Henson, 19, of Charlottesville.

Still, violent crime is down overall in the county, compared to the past three years.

“To the youth participating in this criminal behavior,” said ACPD chief Colonel Sean Reeves during a December 1 press conference, “it is only a matter of time before you or someone you love is shot or killed—so let’s end this cycle now.”

In brief

Shots fired

On December 3, the Charlottesville Police Department responded to an aggravated assault report on the 800 block of West Main Street at around 7:44pm. The officer discovered a person who’d been shot, who was later taken to the hospital for a non-life threatening injury. In a UVA safety alert, the University Police Department initially stated that a suspect—described as a male wearing a black sweatshirt and blue jeans—fled from the scene. However, the CPD later clarified that the victim had suffered a self-inflicted gunshot.

Mpox death

A Virginia resident has died from monkeypox, according to a December 1 state health department press release—the first death from the disease in the commonwealth. The patient was an adult in the state’s eastern health region. According to the latest VDH data, there were no active reported cases of the disease—which health officials now refer to as “mpox” to reduce stigma associated with the prior terminology—from November 27 to December 3 in the state. People who may have been exposed to mpox are urged to get vaccinated as soon as possible to reduce their chance of developing the disease. 

Child flu death

Virginia has also seen its first pediatric flu death of the 2022-23 influenza season. A child between ages 5 and 12 in the state’s southeastern region died from “complications associated with influenza,” according to a November 30 Virginia Department of Health press release. The VDH urges everyone 6 months and older to get their annual flu vaccine.

Helping hand

Soap, toothpaste, socks, underwear, and other essential items will be available to students at Charlottesville elementary schools for free, thanks to the Chris Long Foundation’s new EdZone program. School staff will identify students in need, and help them discreetly access the items. “Students who are not getting these basic needs met can suffer from stress and low self-esteem .… [EdZone’s goal] is to support student success by ensuring kids arrive at school comfortable, confident, and ready to learn,” said Long in a press release.

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News

Battling racism

French soccer legend and activist Lilian Thuram joined students, faculty, and community members at the University of Virginia on December 2 for a live screening of two World Cup games. During the event, hosted by UVA’s Karsh Institute of Democracy, Thuram discussed his experiences as a Black player on France’s national soccer team in the 1990s, and the role activism has played in his life up to the present day. 

Thuram was a heavy-hitter on the French team during the 1998 World Cup, which France won 3-0 against Brazil. Today, he is still the most capped French international player—he appeared in 142 matches over the course of his career. 

Since retiring from international soccer in 2008, Thuram has authored several books about racial bias and Black history, including White Thinking and My Black Stars. He aims to educate people about the history of racism in France, and the ways in which entrenched thinking patterns can reinforce subconscious prejudices—all while taking time to cheer on his two sons at their professional soccer games. His son Marcus is playing on the French team in the 2022 World Cup.

After a viewing of the Cameroon-Brazil and Serbia-Switzerland World Cup games, Thuram sat down with Professor Laurent Dubois, director for academic affairs at UVA’s Democracy Initiative, to discuss his groundbreaking career and activism.

Thuram recounted moments of his childhood, and the important role his mother has played in his life. After moving to France from his birthplace of Guadeloupe at age 9, he found himself feeling alienated from some of his school peers, who called him “sale noir,” meaning “dirty black.” Thuram asserted that this is when he “became Black”—he had no awareness of the importance of skin color until then. He admired the sacrifices his mother made over the course of his childhood, and expressed disappointment at how long it took him to understand the difficulties she faced. “Be conscious of what certain people do for you, and don’t forget to thank them,” he said.

Thuram highlighted the role of soccer in the battle against racism. As a team sport, soccer can break down stereotypes, and create unity across races and religions. However, that sense of belonging can also lead to a collective perception of the opposing team as “the enemy,” which often divides people, he said. He drew attention to the many people who capitalize on this division—the more extreme the division, the more merchandise can be sold. 

Additionally, Thuram emphasized the importance of educating the French populace on the history of racism in the country, which is not taught well in schools. Education, he argued, empowers people to speak out against racism when it occurs. “Education makes visible the violence of racism,” he said.

When questioned about the differences between race relations in the U.S. and France, Thuram asserted that those who speak up about racism in France are often accused of incorrectly applying “American modes of thinking” to “colorblind” French society—an example of the common denial of racism and white supremacy in France.

Closing out the event, the soccer star spoke with pride about his team’s World Cup win—many of his teammates were also members of minority groups. He expressed gratitude at having been a part of changing the collective imagination about what it means to be French, and what a French person can look like. 

“We had the chance to say, ‘This is France,’” he said.

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Arts Culture

Double take

The exhibition “Power Play: Reimagining Representation in Contemporary Photography” at UVA’s Fralin Museum of Art brings together the work of multiple female artists as they deconstruct and condemn classic presentations of feminine identities in popular culture. 

From the first moment that museum-goers enter the exhibition curated by Hannah Cattarin, Adriana Greci Green, and Laura Minton, they are assailed by a motley of bright colors coming from the photographs, and the introductory text at the center of the display. 

“For us, the works and the artists are what’s really at the forefront of the show,” says Minton. “….the concepts are also conversing with each other—because each artist is engaging with these concepts—but in a totally different way from each other. There’s overlap, but at the same time, they’re all doing something that is very unique, and that’s one of the really cool things about this show.”

In the work of British artist Sarah Maple, the artist centers herself in classic Disney princess costumes, presenting these iconic female figures in contemporary leadership roles—Snow White as a football coach, Sleeping Beauty as a surgeon, Ariel as a CEO. Through this series, she criticizes the relegation of women to the domestic sphere, and combats patriarchal definitions of femininity. 

The adjoining wall features innovative Atlanta-based artist Tokie Rome-Taylor. Her photographs spotlight young Black children dressed in rich fabrics, and sporting assortments of pearls and other accessories denoting extreme wealth. The photographs feel reminiscent of Renaissance paintings of wealthy European women from prominent families, while also incorporating elements of African diasporic material culture, as seen through her 2022 piece “Promising Sight.” Rome-Taylor thus combats the lack of African American representation in art history—she gives Black people, particularly Black women, a vision of a past that is not defined by subjugation. By reclaiming the past of Black femininity in this way, she also subverts the common reductive representations of Black women that appear in the media landscape. 

As a member of the Chemehuevi Indian tribe, Cara Romero works to deconstruct stereotypes of Native women in her photographs. Indeed, her pieces all feature a Native woman at the center, surrounded by an assortment of cultural items. Significant colorful patterns frame the photographs, further evoking the packaging in which children’s toys are sold. Her 2019 piece “Amber Morningstar” catches the onlooker’s attention with its vivid blue backdrop and red framing adorned with intriguing Native American symbols, the model at the center dressed in traditional clothing—a commentary on the commodification of Native femininity in popular culture. 

American artist Martine Gutierrez’s diverse work deconstructs classic representations of femininity as seen in magazines and dolls. In her 2014 piece “Line Up 4,” Gutierrez stands motionless among a group of mannequins—she is indistinguishable from them, a sharp criticism of femininity within the capitalist system. Gutierrez also subverts representations of femininity in contemporary media in her 2018 piece “Queer Rage, Imagine Life-Size, and I’m Tyra, p66-67 from Indigenous Woman.” In an excerpt from Indigenous Woman, her imaginary magazine, Gutierrez depicts the ever-shifting identities of a queer woman and her infinite potential as she reclines in her self-portrait in traditional Guatemalan dress, surrounded by vegetation, photoshopped animals, and dolls, among other things. 

Wendy Red Star is a Native artist from the Crow Indian Reservation in Montana. Her photograph series “Four Seasons” shows her over the course of different seasons. She is always in traditional attire and surrounded by nature, and is often looking directly at the camera with an air of defiance. These portraits evoke the life-sized dioramas commonly found in natural history museums; they usually depict extinct and near-extinct animals or insects. Though the natural elements that surround the artist are imitations, she is very real. Red Star thus asserts the continuing existence of Native women, and the value of their culture and heritage. Her final piece in the exhibition, 2016’s “Apsaalooke Feminist #4,” features the artist with her daughter. They are surrounded in Apsaalooke aesthetics and symbols, and adorned in traditional garb, with pensive looks on their faces. The piece draws attention to the importance of passing down Native culture and knowledge, particularly through matrilineage. In Red Star’s exhibition, Native femininity is invigorated both by its refusal to succumb to extinction, as well as its value in preserving Native culture through time. 

“What I love so much about all of these contemporary artists and their work is that there’s so much questioning happening,” says Cattarin.  “And we don’t want to come in with some idea of control or authority that tells you what you should think about.”

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Arts Culture

Young Spielberg 

Steven Spielberg’s semi-autobiographical The Fabelmans is a re-creation of the director’s early life—partly embroidered—that focuses mainly on his fixation with filmmaking. Overall, it’s a well-told story and a reminder of his gifts for cinematic storytelling, yet it suffers from detrimental lapses into sappiness and unsubtlety.

The film opens on young Spielberg surrogate Sammy Fabelman (Gabriel LaBelle) seeing his first movie. Entranced by the medium, his passion for moviemaking continually grows, as he first enlists his sisters to appear in home movies, then as a teenager, his Boy Scout troops become his subjects. 

Meanwhile, a marital rift steadily develops between his parents—pragmatic Burt (Paul Dano), and flighty, artistic Mitzi (Michelle Williams)—in the form of his dad’s best friend, Bennie (Seth Rogen). When the family moves from Arizona to California for Burt’s job promotion, Bennie is left behind, and Sammy must confront the unstable world of adolescence, including antisemitic bullies. His filmmaking muse allows him to compartmentalize, and serves as an escape from his daily troubles. 

Sammy embodies the young, hungry Spielberg: eager to prove himself with showy, striking movies. Now, as probably the most successful filmmaker alive, Spielberg has nothing to prove in terms of technique, and he directs The Fabelmans with mature confidence and very little flashiness.

Few living directors have an innate sense of visual storytelling as good as Spielberg. Love his films or hate them, he’s a born moviemaker. But his latest is by no means his best. The title’s blunt wordplay is an indication of just how ham-fisted the movie sometimes gets. Likewise, Mitzi is a Peter Pan kind of person, so she gets a Peter Pan haircut to match. Subtlety is not The Fabelmans’ strong suit.

Throughout his career, Spielberg has shown an extraordinary talent for getting audiences to relate to his characters. Here, he is as acutely observant as ever about family dynamics and the trials, tribulations, and victories of childhood. But his Achilles’ heel is his tendency toward the treacly. He can easily be accused of being the Norman Rockwell of American cinema: technically brilliant, but overwhelmingly sentimental.

There are outstanding individual sequences, including some of the Fabelmans’ family squabbles and a scene where Sammy makes a disturbing discovery while editing home movies. Certain individual lines and shots are some of the best Spielberg has done in years. (To avoid spoilers, they are not listed here.)

In his film debut, LaBelle is outstanding as the teenaged Sammy, and the entire juvenile cast is good. Dano and Williams are both fine as Sammy’s parents, and at their best in quieter moments. Rogen is better than usual as Bennie. In his showy scene as Mitzi’s uncle Boris, Judd Hirsch will divide viewers—whether he’s making the most of a juicy character part or indulging deeply in silly scenery-chewing is open to debate. And David Lynch makes a memorable cameo as the great director John Ford.

The Fabelmans is an enjoyable, entertaining, light movie, (albeit 20 minutes too long), that is worth seeing. But viewing Spielberg’s career high points like Duel and Jaws would be preferable. The bittersweet irony is that The Fabelmans celebrates moviemaking and the shared experience of moviegoing, as theatrical attendance dips starkly low. It’s also a love letter to a kind of “handmade,” organic filmmaking that computers now largely overshadow. Try as it might to be inspirational, it’s also a sad reminder of what the medium has lost.

The Fabelmans

PG-13, 151 minutes

Regal Stonefield & IMAX, Alamo Drafthouse Cinema

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Culture Food & Drink

Filling a knead

Woodson’s Mill is alive. The green lawn is speckled with people in conversation. There’s smoke from a wood-fired pizza truck, and a number of vendor tables display local food and handcrafts. Rising above the gathering is the four-story, clapboard mill building that has stood there since the 1790s.

Inside the historic building, the sound of the crowd fades into the trickle of the Piney River, the zip of belts and pulleys, and the churning of the steel waterwheel. Underneath and at the heart of those sounds is the low rumble of the millstone.

On the first Sunday of every month, the grist mill opens its doors for the Mill Race Market, where patrons can buy local goods and see the process of making stone-ground flour. But even on less celebratory days, the millstone turns at the heart of a growing community, producing an industry of local grain that nourishes the culture of farmers, bakers, and foodies around it.

Millers Aaron Grigsby, Charlie Wade, and Ian Gamble brought new life to the mill when Deep Roots Milling moved its operation into the building in 2019, with the goal of making milled grains an accessible part of the local food movement. This access has been a glaring omission, considering grains are the foundation of a traditional diet, and wheat in particular is the most consumed food in the United States.

“Well, it is sort of the staff of life in the Western world and beyond it,” Grigsby points out.

The millers knew that bakers wanted to bake with whole grain to offer regionally, ecologically conscious food.

“We were pretty well aware that there would be a growing market for what we were doing, and that really the bottleneck was that it just wasn’t available,” Grigsby says. But the speed and extent of their growth was a surprise.

Deep Roots has won Good Food Awards for outstanding American craft food the last three years in a row, and the mill’s flour can be tasted in offerings at Belle, Althea Bread, Carpe Donut, Little Hat Creek Farm, MarieBette, Cou Cou Rachou, Albemarle Baking Company, Crustworthy Pizza, Slice Versa, Ambrosia, and Janey’s Bread. It’s also available retail from Stock Provisions, Foods of All Nations, and Greenwood Grocery. At the Ix farmer’s market, you can catch Deep Roots at a stand once a month ahead of the Mill Race Market, or find Tonoloway Farm making silver dollar pancakes with its flour.

As a co-founder of the Common Grain Alliance, Heather Coiner is interested in building the local grain economy as well as exploring it in her Little Hat Creek Farm bakery.

“What I like to do is I like to make familiar things with at least 50 percent stoneground, local flour,” Coiner says. “So, I make a white sandwich bread, I make a multigrain sourdough, I make rosemary crackers and graham crackers, chocolate chip cookies, and things that are really embedded in our culture.” 

Her stock room is filled to the ceiling with sacks of flour. “I use Deep Roots flour in pretty much everything,” she says.

Her Danish rye bread was perfected through a working relationship with the millers, and being able to communicate the grades of flour she was after. There was some back and forth as they honed the ratios of cracked rye and finely ground powder for the mix. “Danish rye has three different grades of rye flour in it, and they have been really generous in working with me to provide those grades of flour that I need,” Coiner says. 

Before Scott Shanesy opened the doors at Belle bakery, he knew he wanted to use local, stoneground flour from Deep Roots. “We got in here January 2020, and within the next year we were slowly working the recipes in,” Shanesy says. “Then this past year we made the big switch.”  

Deep Roots flour is in their loaves, baguettes, English muffins, bagels, scones, and cookies. “I think everything now besides the donuts, cinnamon rolls, and the brioche,” says Shanesy. But the plan is to transition those items too.

For Shanesy’s hearth loaves with a crackly steamed crust, the process can stretch over three days to finish fermentation, but the rustic, sourdough loaves are the highlight of his bakery. 

One of the reasons bakers like Shanesy want stoneground flour is that it has more of the whole grain in it—fiber and minerals from the bran, protein and fat from the germ. Commercial white flour is generally just the starch part of the grain, which makes it less nutritious, harder to digest, and less flavorful.

“My quickest telltale sign of quality is, do you need a drink with it?” Shanesy explains. “Are you salivating a lot? If the textures and aromas and the flavors aren’t right, you’re going to need help. But I’ve found that if the dough is fermented and broken down, and you achieve that right texture, you can just eat a half a loaf and not even think about it.”

Categories
Arts Culture

Put a twinkle in your eye

It’s officially the most wonderful time of the year, and what better way to celebrate than with festive holiday lights.

Let There Be Light 

PVCC’s annual outdoor exhibition returns for one night only on December 9, with light-filled artworks, performances, hot chocolate, and warm apple cider. lettherebelightpvcc.com

Veritas Illuminated 

Make it sparkle at an immersive quarter-mile stroll through the grove and vines of Veritas winery (above). veritaswines.com

Winter Wander

Walk Boar’s Head Resort’s wintery wonderland, where colorful lights blanket the nearly half-mile trail around Heritage Lake. boarsheadresort.com

Son of Oatmeal

Pay a visit to Charlottesville’s official tree on the east end of the Downtown Mall. charlottesville.gov

Tinsel Trail 

Meander through a glittery forest at The Shops at Stonefield featuring 100 trees decorated by local businesses and groups. shopsatstonefield.com