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Culture

How locals are fighting light pollution—and what’s at stake

We’re in a dark field—a few hundred of us. There’s no moon. Voices rise and fall in the darkness; the Milky Way sweeps overhead; the land is black and the sky is navy, a forest of stars. It’s 8:30 or so at night. I put my eye to a telescope. In the floating circle, a planetary nebula looks like a tuft of cotton, gliding slowly upwards with the motion of the earth.

I wander away, passing dim outlines of people, toward a different scope. The operator here is a bit of a showman. “I’m taking requests,” he says to the small queue of people gathered in the grass. “The request line is open!” He points a laser into the sky, outlining the Summer Triangle. His scope is trained on the Andromeda Galaxy—“the haze of a trillion stars!”

We’re looking at the enormous universe with our feet planted on the ground at James River State Park, in southern Nelson County. This is a star party featuring the expertise and equipment of the Charlottesville Astronomical Society, and it’s happening here because James River is an official International Dark Sky Place, as listed by the advocacy group DarkSky International: a site far enough from any town to offer clear views of what’s out there, beyond our atmosphere.

In other words, we’re all here to get away from light.

Yet we’ve brought light with us. There are flashlights, headlights, and a video presentation under the pavilion. Of course there are cell phones. There are even digital displays on the bases of some of the telescopes. Our eyes adjust to the darkness, catch a flash of brightness, and adjust again. The stars stay steady.

Wherever there are humans, it seems, there is artificial light, and the amount of light we pour into the world has grown incredibly fast. According to a study published last year in Science, global sky brightness has increased 9.6 percent every year between 2011 and 2022. That is, light pollution doubled in less than eight years.

Kevin Fitzpatrick, president of the Charlottesville Astro­nomical Society, says that newer technologies make it possible to get stunning photos of the universe even in light-polluted skies, but dark skies are still key “if you just like laying out in the chair in the fall looking up at the night sky.” Photo: Tristan Williams

Seeing is believing 

“I’ve only seen the Milky Way twice before,” I hear a man say at the star party. I feel lucky that I can see it from home, anytime the sky is clear—and I am lucky; 80 percent of the world’s population lives under sky glow, that pervasive, cumulative effect of house lights, store lights, billboards, tennis courts, streetlights. This is a loss for amateur astronomers and all humans—our species evolved under dark skies and has been enriched in countless ways by our view of the cosmos—but it’s more than an aesthetic problem.

Light pollution can disrupt bird migrations or lure birds to fly into tall, lit-up buildings. It can lead baby sea turtles astray and attract insects to lights, where predators gobble them up. The presence of nighttime lights fundamentally changes the rhythm of day and night that has given essential cues to animals and plants for millions of years: when to hunt, mate, sleep, and grow.

Artificial light affects human health, too. “When people are exposed to blue light in the evening, whether it’s a cell phone or a streetlight spilling into the bedroom, that’s a sleep disruptor,” says Christine Putnam with Piedmont Dark Skies.

Along with Peggy Cornett and Carol Carter, Putnam began the loosely affiliated group in 2022 after the three of them, already active in local environmental issues, realized they shared a concern about dark skies. They’ve been trying to raise public awareness and to urge local governments, especially the City of Charlottesville and Albemarle County, to make light pollution a priority.

“We’ve done a bunch of tabling events to see, does this have legs in the community?” says Carter. “There were a lot of people who responded yes. The more we learn, the more concerned we are about the subject.”

The group has encouraged local governments to sign proclamations in support of reducing light pollution, but they also want to see binding language in local municipal codes. Albemarle, for one, is currently updating its Comprehensive Plan, and Putnam, a member of Albemarle’s Natural Heritage Committee, has advocated for strong language in that plan to set the stage for an improved ordinance in the future.

“I think the political will is there and the planners want to see that language in there,” she says. “[When it’s time to write regulations], it’s going to be important for astronomers and dark sky advocates to be involved in those discussions, to get the best possible ordinance, one that is effective and enforceable.”

Something big has changed since the county’s last Comprehensive Plan update: the new prevalence of LED lights. “That’s been the biggest game changer,” says Putnam. While LEDs are a great way to meet climate action goals—they’re much more energy-efficient than traditional outdoor lights—the light they emit is also more blue. “This has big implications for our health and all living animals,” she warns. “A shorter wavelength impacts our hormonal systems. And it’s more powerful in terms of creating that dome of light we have over our cities. By 2035, practically all of our outdoor lighting will be LED. If we’re not careful about how we select it, we’re really going to be in trouble. We’ll have a dramatic increase in the brightness of the sky.”

Piedmont Dark Skies activists Peggy Cornett, Carol Carter, and Christine Putnam point to this lamp at Friendship Court as an example of good street lighting. Photo: Tristan Williams

The light side

The good news: As Putnam implies, not all LED lights are created equal. “There is still time to make choices,” she says.

In fact, the City of Charlottesville is currently navigating those very choices, as part of an initiative, just begun this fall, to replace all the streetlights in the city. The lights come in a range of color temperatures and brightness, and DarkSky International provides recommendations about which of those are least harmful. But surprisingly, the city is limited in its options by the inventory of energy giant Dominion.

“We lease all of our lights from Dominion,” explains Kirk Vizzier, the city’s energy management coordinator. “They are the ultimate owners of all of those lights. Their inventory is all we have to work with. We are trying to work with them to expand that, but they are being resistant.” Vizzier says that the city is specifying the lowest color-temperature lights Dominion offers. “If we can get them to go lower at some point we will start to go lower,” he says.

Pierce Harding, an urban planning grad student at UVA, has been documenting existing light pollution levels in Charlottesville. He echoes Vizzier’s comments about Dominion. “There’s not an extensive inventory of DarkSky-certified fixtures,” he says. “With more pressure from the public on Dominion, that could help.” Charlottesville is part of a group of Virginia municipalities, the Virginia Energy Purchasing Governmental Association, which negotiates collectively with Dominion and can also exert pressure on the company to make protecting dark skies easier for localities.

Dominion spokesman Craig Carper, in an email, says that Dominion offers “many dark-skies friendly options” and adds, “We have been in communication with a representative from the Virginia chapter of the Dark Sky organization and will continue to have discussions about light offerings.” 

The public lighting initiative is expected to take around three years and cost $600,000. “It’s a big investment,” Putnam says, pointing out that the new lights could last a quarter-century.

Meanwhile, she says, municipalities need to enforce lighting ordinances already on the books. Putnam and her PDS co-founders can rattle off a list of sites that seem over-lit, from planter islands on the Downtown Mall to fast-food joints to sports fields. (Notice a too-bright spot? Read Brodhead with the city’s zoning office says you can complain through the MyCville app, phone, or email, and his department will investigate.)

Cornett also points out that individual choices matter—turning outdoor lights off when not in active use, opting for fixtures that point downward instead of out or up, choosing warmer-color and dimmer bulbs. Carter adds, “People think uplighting the façade of a house makes it look really nice. They just aren’t aware of the negative effects that is having on wildlife and on themselves.”

Before the dawn

Back at the star party, the showman aims his scope at Saturn. Someone looks and emits a guttural “wow,” and then a woman looks and says, “The crazy thing is, it looks fake!” Another person: “That’s cool…” Pause. “That’s really cool.” The showman enthuses: “That’s a crisp view right now! Isn’t that awesome?”

There’s a term for sadness over the loss of night sky views: noctalgia, or “sky grief.” It’s the other side of that joy and awe we feel in the dark field, looking at planets and comets.

Beyond Earth’s atmosphere, the cosmic wonders continue. This December 7, Jupiter and its moons are at their most visible all year. A week later, the “king of the meteor showers”—the Geminids—takes place. The stars stay steady. Whether we can see them or not, it seems, is our choice.

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News

In brief 12/04/2024

Feeding frenzy

Local food equity nonprofit Cultivate Charlottesville launched a fundraising campaign to help cover a $500,000 budget shortfall. Without the donations, the organization may close as soon as spring 2025, according to a November 26 social media post.

“Cultivate Charlottesville is at a critical funding crossroads,” shared the organization. Among other challenges, the nonprofit cited staffing changes, depleted savings, and grants falling through as contributing factors to possibly closing. “Our work is focused on the local food system, and we’re calling on the local community to help us reach our fundraising goal.”

The potential closure of Cultivate Charlottesville puts a strain on already under-resourced food equity efforts. While it terminated Fresh Farmacy deliveries in July, Local Food Hub will shut down entirely at the end of the year. Cultivate Charlottesville was one of the nonprofits expected to help bridge the offerings lost with the closure of LFH.

Through its partnership with Charlottesville City Schools, Cultivate has worked with 20,500 students in its community gardens since its launch in 2007. The nonprofit has also grown and distributed more than 100,000 pounds of fresh produce to community members in public and subsidized housing.

To donate to Cultivate Charlottesville, visit cultivatecharlottesville.org/donate.

Follow the money

The Augusta County Sheriff’s Office has launched an investigation into the financial records of former United Way president and CEO Kristi Williams after the nonprofit paused operations in early November.

Williams left her role with United Way of Staunton, Augusta County & Waynesboro just before the nonprofit shut its doors temporarily. She worked with the organization in various roles since October 2018, according to her LinkedIn profile.

While rising operating costs were previously cited as the reason for the closure, questionable transactions that occurred during Williams’ tenure raised concerns for investigators and board members.

In a November 20 filing obtained by The Daily Progress, ACSO requested a search warrant for Williams’ financial records with DuPont Community Credit Union going back to January 2023. The warrant application also includes an affidavit with copies of checks totaling more than $20,000 written and signed by Williams.

For information about resources and updates on the operational pause of UWSAW, visit united waysaw.org.

Kristi Williams. Photo via LinkedIn.

So far so good

University of Virginia men’s basketball interim Head Coach Ron Sanchez held his first Coaches Corner at Dairy Market on December 2, after taking over the program from former coach Tony Bennett weeks before the start of the 2024-2025 season. Despite Bennett’s sudden departure, the Hoos have had a respectable 5-2 start under Sanchez’s leadership. The Cavaliers’ next big test comes on December 4, when the team will face the undefeated Florida Gators in Gainesville. Tipoff is at 7:15pm.

UVA men’s basketball interim Head Coach Ron Sanchez held his first Coaches Corner on December 2. Photo via UVA Athletics Communications.

Big discovery

Construction crews uncovered a literal pillar of history while working near the Rotunda at the University of Virginia on November 26, according to UVAToday. The stone pillar was unearthed near the building’s lower north plaza and is believed to have been buried by workers in the early 20th century. The pillar was previously part of a wall along University Avenue.

Christmas pun

Spruce Lee is the official name of Charlottesville’s 2024 holiday tree. The tree will be lit December 6 during the annual Grand Illumination at Ting Pavilion, where it will remain throughout the holiday season. Beyond the fun, this year’s naming contest also served as an informal introduction to ranked-choice voting, which will be used in the 2025 Democratic Charlottesville City Council primaries. Spruce Lee won with 59 percent of the vote, coming out ahead of runner-up Boots with the Fir.

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News

City Council talks budget and everything road-related

At its penultimate meeting of 2024, Charlottesville City Council received its second budget briefing from City Manager Sam Sanders. In addition to the budget, the December 2 session focused on everything transportation—including the Virginia Department of Transportation portfolio, parking rules, and scooters.

In his briefing, Sanders outlined and affirmed council’s housing and infrastructure priorities for what’s expected to be a jam-packed budget.

Under housing, top items included the land bank, tax abatement programs, and the city’s commitment to housing accessibility. 

Earlier this fall, $500,000 in funds previously allocated for the land bank, which aims to help with the area’s affordable housing crisis, were shifted to the purchase of Carlton Mobile Home Park, leaving the fund empty. Sanders proposed a $12 million investment in affordable housing for FY25, part of the city’s 10-year, $100 million commitment.

Sanders also emphasized the importance of funding work on the city’s long-overdue Americans with Disabilities Act transition.

“We’ve added a $2 million a year commitment. … I am not convinced that that’s enough to really, really demonstrate best effort. … The ADA is law, therefore it’s not optional,” said Sanders. “Let’s check our work and make sure … we’re getting these things done, and we’re checking things off the list. … Our prior transition, I can’t say that we did that.”

Under a Department of Justice settlement, Charlottesville would need to sideline or substantially reduce its spending on other priorities to quickly improve ADA compliance.

Transportation and accessibility were the focus of the council’s 6:30pm session, starting with a review and extension of the city’s permit agreement with micromobility company Veo.

As the only e-scooter and e-bike company permitted in the city, Veo has almost 7,000 users in Charlottesville and more than 250,000 rides annually. Over the past year, the city has worked with Veo to address persistent parking problems. Changes include more proactive issuance of violations and fines by Veo, the creation of recommended and mandatory parking zones, and added education and speed restrictions for new users.

Despite pressure from some constituents to eliminate scooters and e-bikes, council expressed support for extending Veo’s permit.

Council also decided to push back its vote updating the city’s parking rules after a contentious discussion and confusion over the legal definition of the word “truck.” Changes in the proposed ordinance include a ban on covering a vehicle’s identifying information with a tarp and a prohibition on street parking of vehicles with more than two wheels per axle.

In addition, councilors voted to right-size the city’s VDOT portfolio, canceling two projects and reducing the scope of others.

“We did not arrive at this conclusion very easily. This is not without a lack of consideration,” said Sanders. “It’s fair for people to be disappointed that we had to make changes. It is fair to be angry that we’re canceling projects.”

Though councilors inquired about potential ways to save the scrapped projects on Emmet Street and Fifth and Ridge streets, Sanders and Deputy City Manager for Operations James Freas said there is no wiggle room.

“While we have a very close working relationship with VDOT, VDOT has made it clear that this is the deal,” said Freas.

“VDOT district office has gone to bat for us, and secured the ability for some flexibility in the movement of money that is unheard of. … That gives us the best possibility for us delivering on what remains of our portfolio,” said Sanders.

One topic that was not addressed by City Council was the allocation of remaining American Rescue Plan funds.

In 2021, Charlottesville received $10,428,843 in ARP funding. On top of interest generated by the money, the city still has more than $3 million to allocate before the end of the year. Council’s last opportunity to appropriate the funds is on December 16, during its final meeting of the year.

“This is the last allocation, so everything else has been reviewed previously and presented,” Sanders told C-VILLE after the meeting. “This is just a cleanup action for what the remaining balance is.”

According to the city manager, decisions are still being finalized, but funds will likely go to projects supporting the unhoused.

“We recognize that when the federal government made the funding available, it was, ‘Let’s do what you can to [overcome] the impacts of COVID, but also do something significant in your community,’” said Sanders. “Addressing homelessness is a top priority.”

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News

Hoos once again fall short in Commonwealth Cup

The University of Virginia football season came to an ignominious end November 30, when the team lost 17-37 in the Commonwealth Cup game against Virginia Tech at Lane Stadium. UVA has now ceded the cup to Virginia Tech in 19 of the last 20 matchups  (UVA’s victory came in 2019 at home in Scott Stadium).

But the bigger storyline is that both teams entered the night in line to become bowl eligible. Over the last few years the NCAA has become more lax with bowl eligibility requirements in reaction to the growth and popularity of college football, meaning far more “bowl” games have come into existence. Still, the achievement of bowl eligibility is seen as a milestone.

Bowl eligibility not only means the obvious—a potential invitation to a postseason matchup—but also brings a higher expected standard of play and a new level of respect to a program as a whole. Recruits who may have previously been out of reach may now be a possibility, and a team also has a chance to show its stuff (so to speak) to the nation, helping to draw additional recruiting interest. Despite the disappointing end to their season, the Hoos have made strides from the previous two seasons under Head Coach Tony Elliott. However, without maintaining a winning (or at least even) record, and eventually achieving bowl eligibility, any progress the program has begun to enjoy may stagnate.

Speaking of stagnation (and not to be totally doom and gloom here), some important things are happening this off-season for the Hoos. First, second-year quarterback Anthony Colandrea has officially announced that he will enter the transfer portal on December 9, as many had already suspected. Additionally, Tony Muskett, who started at QB in 2023 before being replaced by Colandrea for much of the 2024 season, will become ineligible to play for the team after finishing the season as a fifth-year senior. His absence leaves UVA with no quarterback on the roster with many college snaps under his belt (backup QB Gavin Frakes started five games for New Mexico State in 2022 before transferring to UVA). That’s a big problem, one that will likely need to be addressed via the transfer portal in the offseason.

Another issue: A large number of current UVA football players are either seniors or grad students. This includes standouts like wide receiver Malachi Fields, who led the team in receptions and receiving yards, the excellent safety duo of Jonas Sanker (whose praises I’ve been singing all season long) and Corey Thomas Jr., as well as much of the current offensive and defensive lines. In addition to the losses from graduation, I also expect a handful of underclassmen to opt into the transfer portal in the coming week. This leaves Elliott with a potential turnover of 40 to 50 players going into the 2025-2026 season. 

On the bright side, Fields, Sanker, Thomas Jr., and others made their way to UVA and improved it over the past few years. And they did it in a program that was in far worse shape than it is now. Who’s to say that there aren’t a few new gems coming the Hoos’ way this offseason? No matter what happens, Elliott, Offensive Coordinator Des Kitchings, and Defensive Coordinator John Rudzinski will need to put the new pieces together and keep things moving in the right direction.

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News Real Estate

UVA Foundation moving forward with North Fork residential development

When the University of Virginia Foundation purchased hundreds of acres of land by the Charlottesville Regional Airport in 1986, the intent at the time was to create a research park to support business and commerce. 

Decades later, the foundation is prepared to turn a section of the 562-acre site into a place where hundreds of people can live, and has issued a request for interested developers to submit their qualifications. Earlier this year, the Albemarle Board of Supervisors approved a rezoning allowing for homes to be built there.

“The residential program’s updated Master Plan will create housing for those working in North Fork, adjacent properties, and the broader community,” reads the request for qualifications.

In all, up to 1,400 homes can be built at North Fork, but this particular phase would involve up to 600 units. The RFQ calls for a mixture of market-rate, workforce housing, and affordable units, with the latter defined as being at prices at 80 percent of the area median income. 

“The goal is to offer mixed-income housing opportunities that support live/work/play environments at North Fork, while addressing the area’s housing needs,” says Fred Missel, the foundation’s director of development. 

North Fork is one of three locations where both UVA and the Foundation seek to provide income-restricted housing as part of an initiative called for by a committee UVA President Jim Ryan formed soon after he took office in 2018. 

An exact breakdown of income levels for the 600 units is not required in the RFQ, but the document does say “an optimal number of affordable units guided by best practices for successful mixed-income communities that support community and economic development initiatives.”

Missel says the Foundation hopes to identify a developer who would build something unique to Albemarle. 

“Qualified development teams will be expected to present a vision that incorporates elements of sustainability, resilience, superior community design, economic development, and affordability, tailored to create a unique community that stands out in the area,” Missel says. 

North Fork is in the Hollymead neighborhood as classified by Albemarle County, and the 1,400 units allowed under the recent rezoning are among the 5,221 approved but not yet built, according to the county’s development dashboard. Just over 1,000 units are under review in this area, including an additional 655 at North Pointe. 

While there is no date for construction in the RFQ, UVA’s website on the affordable housing initiative estimates it will happen in the spring of 2027.

Missel says there is no specific date at this time, but the zoning is now in place and the Foundation has made investments to prepare for the additional residents. To support the county’s infrastructure, the Foundation spent $6 million in 2020 to connect Lewis and Clark Drive to Airport Road. Eventually, that roadway will connect with Berkmar Drive, creating a parallel road to U.S. 29. That’s a core principle of the Places29 Master Plan adopted by county supervisors in February 2011. 

UVA has previously selected a nonprofit entity called Preservation of Affordable Housing to develop a two-acre site at 10th and Wertland streets, and that project is listed as going to construction in the summer of 2026. The Piedmont Housing Alliance was selected to develop a 12-acre Fontaine Avenue site, expected to move dirt sometime in 2027.

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Arts Culture

Gallery Rally

The scene is set for a sideshow spectacular at this year’s Gallery Rally. Showcasing an eclectic collection of local artists creating works live in the gallery, the event gives visitors an opportunity to meet creators, witness the artistic process, and purchase freshly made pieces on the spot. All artworks are priced at $100, and all proceeds support upcoming exhibitions and programming. This annual fundraiser also features raffle prizes, DJ sets, caricatures, an afterparty, and entertainment inspired by acts staged alongside the big top circus tents.

Saturday 12/7. Free, 5–9pm. Second Street Gallery, 115 Second St. SE. secondstreetgallery.org

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Arts Culture

Willie Watson

Willie Watson, Americana singer-songwriter and founding member of Old Crow Medicine Show, brings more than 30 years of musical experience to the stage with songs exploring torment and redemption. Through stories of heartbreak, hurt, hope, and growth, Watson channels old-time American folk, weaving in contemporary reflections on loss, love, addiction, and burdens in a complex world. Expect tunes that function as testimonials to life’s tough times and resilience, and effectively pull on your heartstrings as Watson strums his guitar and banjo.

Saturday 12/7. $25–30, 8pm. The Southern Café & Music Hall, 103 First St. S. thesoutherncville.com

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Arts Culture

“A Christmas Carol”

There are plenty of reasons why Charles Dickens’ A Christmas Carol has spawned so many adaptations. And whether you prefer the lead miser be played by Michael Caine surrounded by Muppets, Bill Murray learning lessons about 1980s corporate greed, or an animated Jim Carrey in Disneyfied 3D, the main plot point stays the same: Can Ebenezer Scrooge change his ways before his proverbial (and literal) goose is cooked? In a tale of supernatural transformation, the American Shakespeare Center mounts this holiday classic where Ghosts of Christmas Past, Present, and Future haunt the dreams of a mean old man and work to thaw his icy heart.

Thursday 12/5 Through Sunday 12/29. Ticket prices and showtimes vary. Blackfriars Playhouse, 10 S. Market St., Staunton. americanshakespearecenter.com

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Culture Food & Drink

Advice for dining at The Clifton’s 1799

Included in the 2024 Michelin Green Guide USA East, The Clifton was built in 1799 as a home for Thomas Jefferson’s daughter Martha and her husband. The property currently houses a boutique hotel and restaurant helmed by Executive Chef Matthew Bousquet. On a crisp November evening, I decided to see what all the excitement was about. The experience inspired me to put together a guide of my own—a few tips to make the most of your meal.

Do arrive early and get a drink at the bar.

Located in the heart of 1799, The Copper Bar—named for the copper piping supporting shelves of alluringly illuminated bottles—sets the tone for the evening.

Try one of bartender Chris Wellen’s handcrafted cocktails. Leaning into autumn flavors, I ordered the Maple Walnut Manhattan, scented with black walnut bitters, sweetened with maple syrup, and served old-fashioned style on a single, sizable ice cube. My husband opted for The Harvest, a blend of local Ragged Branch bourbon, cinnamon apple syrup, and rhubarb bitters.

Don’t fill up on the bread. 

This might seem obvious to anyone who’s ever arrived pleasantly hungry to a restaurant and been tempted by a basket of rolls. But here, there are no baskets, and these are no ordinary rolls. Instead, a Staub cast-iron cocotte appeared, filled with steaming, buttered rolls studded with mustard seeds. Hearty wheat crackers ribboned with red onion offered a crisp contrast. A pat of softened butter completed the offering.

You may wonder what you’re meant to dip the crackers into. The answer? Nothing. And you’ll like it. This first offering stands entirely on its own. 

Don’t order the bone marrow escargot.

Unless, of course, you’re ready for the rest of your meal to live in its shadow. This appetizer has officially joined my “last supper” list. From the moment the server set down the marrow spoon, I knew I was in for an experience.

This dish is a balancing act in every sense. Narrow slices of crisp toast teeter against halved bones, interiors shimmering with luscious marrow. The entire dish is drizzled with Pernod butter, greened with parsley, and dotted with a generous scattering of tender escargot. The dish invites a perfect bite: Tear off a piece of toast, spread on the creamy marrow, top with buttery escargot, and dip into one of the artful dollops of tangy lemon gel scattered across the plate.

For my husband, the star of the show was his entrée: the Kunz short rib. Naturally, I stole a forkful. Resting in a silky pool of celery root purée, the tender beef was unexpectedly paired with ginger and mango, alongside familiar accompaniments of spinach and horseradish-dijon cream.

Be prepared to learn. 

Not from books, though you’ll see many filling the floor-to-ceiling shelves of the library room where we were seated. Instead, learn from the dishes, your server, and maybe even from your phone (hello, Google). 

I don’t pretend to know every ingredient and cooking technique. That’s the beauty of dining out: It challenges you. It teaches you how to taste, layer by layer. There’s meant to be some mystery, some velvet curtain between us and the alchemy of the kitchen.

I couldn’t help but wonder: Who is Kunz, whose name graces the short rib dish? Not the 1799’s Michelin-starred Bousquet, but Gray Kunz, the celebrated chef behind Manhattan’s now-closed Lespinasse. The recipe lives on, skillfully adapted by Bousquet into a dish that feels very at home on 1799’s menu. 

Do choose Virginia wine.

I opted for a glass of Lovingston’s 2022 Rotunda Red, vibrant with ripe red fruit, soft tannins, and a hint of black pepper on the finish. If that doesn’t suit your taste, the wine cellar features an array of award-winning Virginia vineyards alongside global vintages. Highlights were a viognier from Pollak Vineyards, and Barboursville Vineyards’ sauvignon blanc, Vermentino Reserve, and Octagon.

Ask about the ingredients.

Tucked among the grounds of The Clifton is a chef’s garden. The burrata, a first course that evolves throughout the year, showcases the garden’s ingredients. This version spotlighted Badger Flame beets, a unique variety tasting of honeyed sweet carrots. Nestled alongside burrata on a bed of tender lettuces, the salad was dressed with fennel pollen butter, a granola vanilla vinaigrette infused with Espelette pepper, and a white chocolate crumble. If a salad could flirt with being dessert, this one came deliciously close.

Let’s revisit the number four. I researched Espelette so you didn’t have to. It’s a pepper cultivated in the French town of the same name, with a flavor somewhere between sumac and Aleppo pepper. Sumac I know—its tart, lemony brightness grows wild in my backyard. But Espelette? It’s new to me, and I love that.

Do order dessert. 

The rhum savarin looked like a simple puff pastry but delighted us with its moist, tres leches-like interior. The chocolate lava cake, served in yet another charming Staub cocotte, delivered ooey-gooey bitter chocolate goodness, balanced by poached pears and toasted almonds. It was decadent, warm, and the perfect note to end the evening.

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Arts Culture

LA LOM with The National Reserve

Friday 12/6 at The Southern Café and Music Hall

LA LOM, an acronym for the Los Angeles League of Musicians, floats out a dreamy-yet-driving instrumental soundtrack with West Coast cool. More of a three-piece than a league, per se, the band’s sound careens smoothly through adventurous, succinct tracks that lilt with well-placed, heartbreaking chords and trembling guitar riffs. Zac Sokolow’s lyrical lead guitar—reminiscent of Link Wray’s more lucid solos and a dry land Dick Dale—call to mind the best strains of sad ’60s pop ballads. The sensible, syncopated bass line color provided by Jake Faulkner is offset by the danceable heat from Nicholas Baker’s economical drum and percussion-based beats. Baker often opts for replacing the typical snare drum spot with conga hits while kicking the bass drum and riding the hi-hat for an undulating groove.

It makes sense that LA LOM formed in 2019 for a nightly residency in L.A.’s Roosevelt Hotel lobby. Each song moves forward by constructing new scenes, deftly lit and advancing on a road mapped out by Latin music influences (Mexican boleros, Cumbia sonidera, Peruvian chicha), leading to a distinctly SoCal simmer that carries the cinematic history and intrigue of the Roosevelt’s Hollywood Boulevard locale. 

On this year’s self-titled debut, tracks like “Ghost of Gardena,” “Rebecca,” and “San Fernando Rose” are offset with piano, strings, and bells in the latter song that play up what could be the opening soundtrack to a West Hollywood-based, Mexican-American James Bond movie. Ultimately, it’s Sokolow’s inventive guitar lines that make the difference for a fully instrumental group such as LA LOM. His wizardry with genuine and passionate leads replaces the need for a vocalist, and captures a breadth of emotion that words often cannot.

Openers The National Reserve represent the other coast’s media Mecca, as the Brooklyn-based five-piece that, ironically enough, flaunts its down-to-earth ’70s rock ‘n’ roll on its most-streamed Spotify track, “California.” The group’s not breaking any new ground but that hardly seems what it’s after.